YM1700 injector timing question

[thepumpguysc]

The “drip tube” coming off #1 cyl should only be about 5 inches long and curved over like a candy cane..
Fuel start flowing and starts to drip and when the drip gets to 1 about every few seconds.. STOP.. that’s port closure, start of delivery..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Without going back and reading the whole thread..
WHY r u going thru this.??

 

[goose117]

I've had this tractor for more than 20 years and a few years ago I could no longer get it started. After many new parts including injectors and injector pump the tractor is still very hard to start. Compression seems to be good and it seemed like fuel is getting out of the injectors so I thought I would check the timing.

 

[goose117]

The “drip tube” coming off #1 cyl should only be about 5 inches long and curved over like a candy cane..
Fuel start flowing and starts to drip and when the drip gets to 1 about every few seconds.. STOP.. that’s port closure, start of delivery..

Thanks for the description. I hadn't seen anything about what the drip tube should look like.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The compression seems ok.??
I can understand the injectors seems ok because of the smoke from the exhaust, but how does one check compression without checking the compression.??

 

[thepumpguysc]

I can send u a picture of the drip tube if u like..
Send me your phone # in a prvt msg and I’ll text you a pic of it.

 

[goose117]

The compression seems ok.??
I can understand the injectors seems ok because of the smoke from the exhaust, but how does one check compression without checking the compression.??

I did compression testing (using a tester I got from Hoyes) on each cylinder and got more than 550 psi in each. I put in new sleeves, pistons, rings, and head.

 

[goose117]

Here's what I've tried based on thepumpguysc input. The injection timing monitoring tube (photo) has a small flow when the when the engine is before 1 TDC. As the engine is rotated CW, the flow slows and stops. The photo with the red lines shows where I think the timing marks are. I also included a photo from another thread depicting the marks. So I think TDC is the red mark between the 1 and T in my photo and the lower mark is the timing mark. If this is the case and the engine is at the position where fuel flow stopped then I think this shows the timing is late and I would want to remove shims under the injector pump.

 

[thepumpguysc]

u can tell if ur on the right track by measuring the shims u have now..
Someone had posted a formula between shims and degrees.. I can’t think of it at the moment..
It’s probably been done a gazillion times.. see if u can search: Kubota PFR timing formula..
The process is the same..between ALL small machines running the
PFR style pumps..
Kubota, Yanmar, JD, Kioti, etc..
U can probably find a better way/description on how y to o do it..
U should turn the drip tube down and watch the drips..

 

[goose117]

It seems like I need to remove more shims than are installed to get the timing correct. I have seen a few similar posts of what to do if removing all the shims does not get the timing to where it is supposed to be, but I didn't see any answers posted. I did put some extra shims in to see that it moved my timing in the wrong way (lagged more than it does with no shims, so farther from the desired timing mark). I think the Yanmar manual I have says each shim moves the timing by a degree.