YM2500 HYDRAULIC LEAKS

Travis_R · May 6, 2007

Thanks Eddie and Aaron. Some people do understand where i'm coming from.

LMTC, WAYNE, WHATEVER....THIS IS IT. I'M THROUGH TRYING TO BE NICE TO YOU. YOU CONSTANTLY KEEP TRYING TO ATTACK ME. WHAT YOU HAVE HAVE TYPED IN THIS THREAD HAS NOT HELPED AT ALL TO THE LEAK DOWN OF MY HYDRAULICS. WHY EVEN BOTHER TO POST (rhetorical question)???? I WOULD APPRECIATE IT IF YOU WOULDN'T REPLY TO ANY OF MY THREADS/POSTS.

OH AND WHILE I'M AT IT, THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I MEANT SOME MONTHS AGO WHEN I SAID THAT YOU ARE "COCKY" AND SMART-ELIC. IF I WAS A BETTING PERSON, I'D BET THAT YOU HAVE LOST MORE SALES BECAUSE OF YOUR ATTITUDE, RATHER THAN MY POSTINGS ON HERE ABOUT MY LIKING OF THE VIETNAM RECONDITIONED YM2000 THAT I HAD, ALONG WITH THE SELLING DEALER. THATS WHAT IT ALL BOILS DOWN TO.

I NOW KNOW THAT I WOULDN'T BUY THE LAST PART ON EARTH FOR MY YM2500 IF YOU WERE THE ONLY DEALER WHO HAD IT......TAKE IT HOW YOU WANT.

Travis R

MJPetersen · May 6, 2007

Travis,

I am not a moderator, but I believe that your last post is over the top. I understand that you are frustrated, but you should ignore posts that do not meet your expectations and not attack. I can understand Wayne's frustration with your posts too. He also probably should be careful how he words his posts, but he stated what he saw as truth. I do not believe he is attacking you, but rather what he sees as nonsense and a time waster. You obviously disagree, but that is NO reason for blasting a person. That is not right at all.

Be nice guys, we're here to help not attack. Take a deep breath, relax and go do some physical work.

Mike in Warsaw

Travis_R · May 6, 2007

Mike,

With all do respect, this has nothing to do with you. You really don't know what you're saying. Please just let it be.

Travis R

Eddie · May 6, 2007

HoyeTractor said:
I'm going to stay out of the "shoud I fix it or not debate" but... I also have to agree with Travis on one issue- if the lift stays up with the valve closed I don't think it will be the o-rings on the lift piston. If those are bad it will go down either way. It is almost always the control valve itself if the lift continues to go down when the lockout valve is closed.

Aaron
Parts@HoyeTractor.com
(940)592-0181

I will yield to Aaron on this diagnosis. He knows a lot more about these tractors than I do.

California · May 6, 2007

Travis_R said:
Mike,
With all do respect, this has nothing to do with you. You really don't know what you're saying. Please just let it be.
Travis R

Travis if you say your posts are impossible to answer, then you are wasting everyone's time.

I'll repeat what Mike said: Be nice guys, we're here to help not attack.

FWIW - My advice is find a local mechanic familiar with these lifts, and pay him to make it work to your expectations. This isn't rocket science, the design has been in use for 60+ years. And provide him a service manual plus info on where to order parts.

I think it is unreasonable for you to expect your Internet buddies to take any responsibility for your tractor. That responsibility rests with you. We're here to share information, hopefully useful information. If you don't like the advice you get here then pay someone local to work on it, don't yell at us.

LMTC · May 6, 2007

Yes, Travis. In your own words, "Please just let it be." Once again, you ask for advice then refute it. What a waste of time. The issue I bring forth has nothing to do with whether the lift should or should not leak down; it has to do with again asking for input then disagreeing with it. Just re-read this thread alone and count the times you refuse to accept the information given to you, and then you praise those who agree with you that it shouldn't leak down. WHY waste time posting when the only answers you appear to want are those that agree with your already-established position? Good grief, why should anyone respond anymore?

As far as doing business with us, that was resolved long ago when you called to price tractors, after you privately advised some folks that I was cocky and that you would never do business with me, and I simply told you I chose not to do business with you. I have never stated anything but the truth to you or regarding you. Pure facts. Understand the difference between the person who turns on the light and the things that become visible in the light.

I WOULD APPRECIATE IT IF YOU WOULDN'T REPLY TO ANY OF MY THREADS/POSTS.

You have your wish. As of now I will refrain from posting on threads you start, UNLESS you misrepresent the truth again. I will always respond to that, as I did HERE when you blatantly misrepresented what I wrote.

Travis_R · May 6, 2007

Eddie,

I was thinking that it was the o-rings on the lift cylinder piston, also. But, since the lift doesn't leak down with the stop valve closed, I don't think that is the cause (but I could be wrong). Its irritating to figure out the problem.

Like Aaron suggested, I'm thinking it is more in the hydraulic control valve. But again, that is a whole 'new' assembly that the dealer installed.

I know there is a couple adjustments on that assembly. I'll try to adjust it.

I also wonder if I should take the whole assembly apart and try to clean/replace what I can?

Travis

Travis_R · May 6, 2007

I'm not asking "Should I fix it or not?". I'm asking "How do I fix it?".

Aaron, If I may, what is your suggestion on where to start?

Travis

kenmac · May 6, 2007

This is my advise ( advise only) send it back to the selling dealer & tell him it's not repaired.Don't take it home until repaired ! As I understand ,the tractor has a 6 mo. parts & labor warranty . If you try to make repairs It may ( I don't know for sure ) void your warranty. The selling dealer should make the repairs what ever the cost at no cost to you.

HoyeTractor · May 6, 2007

Travis,
I really didn't want to get into this debate but since you asked me specifically I will. There is really no way for me to tell you "how to fix it" without some of my "should you fix it" thoughts leaking out though.

I think it (the valve) was a re-built one

It has been discussed here several times that the valves on that tractor have an aluminum body and that they are not usually rebuildable. That may be a factor in the quick leak down.

It may also be the oring under the valve. If I remember correctly that is the pressure port to the lift cylinder. If that oring is bad or incorrect it could also cause a faster leak down. The oring & gasket are cheap. You might try that first. If that does not help the issue- a new valve is $250. It is possible, however, that you could replace the valve, oring, & gasket and it will still leak down. You said in an earlier post that it was around 1 minute to leak down. 1 minute to leak down seems pretty fast so a new valve & correct/new oring & gasket would likely at least slow that a noticable amount. It is very likely that it may not stop it completely though.

I can't seem to understand why that is common.....It isn't right for it to leak down.

We had 2 brand new Case IH tractors many years ago that cost around $75,000 each. Both of them leaked down a few hours after they were unloaded off the trailer. Another was over $100,000 and did the same thing. The leak down would not have been covered by warranty on any of these because it is not a function of the tractor. The tractor is not meant to hold up a load after the engine is off. In fact - all of the manuals (including the Yanmar manuals) state that you must lower the implement to the ground before shutting off the tractor because it is not safe to leave an implement in the air unless it is blocked up, etc.

My point-If it is worth the money for you to try fix this (or have your dealer fix it) then go for it but you may spend a ton of money on new parts and still not be able to completely stop it from leaking down.

Hope this helps,
Aaron
Parts@HoyeTractor.com
(940)592-0181