Good point raised Bill, steering towards the control side.....
I have an Innova really basic manual-ranging DMM that I use most of the time knocking about on automotive stuff. Doesn't look like they still show that model, but if you need/want a basic DMM, have a look at Innova sic. Good value vs. $. If you end up having fun with it, you can save up for a Fluke later
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Even with a DMM around, this technique can be useful sometimes...... take an incandescent bulb and socket, and use that with a 12v source to temporarily wire into sections of wiring you've opened up for inspection, and aren't sure if they are passing power properly. You use an incandescent bulb (vs. LED) to create sufficient load to test with, you don't have to worry about polarity, and if you are working on a large chassis, you can have a visual indicator that you can see from a distance. This is a course technique to use (blunt hammer approach meaning), but to zero in on a corroded connector, or loose pins etc, it's often all that you need. An old sealed-beam headlight/foglamp is an ideal load, but anything smaller will work too.
Caveats ^ ........ older generators being pretty simple, you can't get into too much trouble, but keep the following in mind:
Modern auto electronics sometimes don't react well ($$$) to power being introduced where it shouldn't be, so the headlamp technique is most safe being used on
totally disconnected wiring. In other words, you are playing with an "empty" harness.
Fusing the test bulb is a good idea, but if you are just playing with a battery+bulb+wiring, don't lose track (turn off cell phone etc) of where you are at..... too easy to start an electrical fire w. "
I'll just be gone for a minute....."
If you don't have a Manual for that gen, post the model # if you can still see it, somebody may come up with a schematic....
Rgds, D.
