Z930R - Zero Turn Purchase - Comments and Rules of Thumb?

[rmonio]

I just purchased a Z930R for my property. I don't have much in the ways of heavy grass/hills so this should be sufficient.

Any gotchas on driving/handling/management that you can share or point me to?

Thanks!

 

[WinterDeere]

Nice mower. Your first Zero turn, or transitioning from something else? Which size deck did you get?

 

[rmonio]

It's my first Zero Turn and I'm transitioning from my riding mower (X320).

I also bought the mulching kit to help in the fall.

Thanks!

 

[WinterDeere]

Basic theory:

1. Do two perimeter passes, clockwise to shoot all clippings onto your own lawn rather than street/neighbors.
2. Do two passes around each building, counterclockwise to shoot all clippings away from building/patios.
3. Pick a property line as your alignment, and start making stripes.
4. Learn to do K-turns (or "Y-turns") at end of each strip. You do not pivot on the spot, that will tear a divot out of the lawn at the end of each stripe.
5. Use a different property line or diagonal for each mowing, preferably having 4 different directions (N-S, E-W, NE-SW, NW-SE) to even out wear and rutting.

There are many finer points, but this will get you started. Oh, and learn to use mower deck lift pedal at every bump, esp. if deck is 60" or over. After some practice, you may choose to reduce your perimeter passes to one, after you've learned more efficient K-turns. It's a matter of care versus speed, and I tend to do just one perimeter pass but two passes around buildings.

 

[BigBlue1]

You'll love it. I know I have after moving from my JD x758 to a Bad Boy Rogue zero-turn.

As mentioned above, the turning requires a bit of finesse to avoid tearing up the grass. I try to mow in rectangles and at every corner what I do is: go past the end of the uncut section not quite a mower length. Reverse straight back and immediately start to turn to the left. As the mower nears about 45* then transition to forward, still turning to the left. That works well for me to not tear things up, normally. No idea if that style of turn has a name.

 

[workinonit]

Basic theory:

1. Do two perimeter passes, clockwise to shoot all clippings onto your own lawn rather than street/neighbors.
2. Do two passes around each building, counterclockwise to shoot all clippings away from building/patios.
3. Pick a property line as your alignment, and start making stripes.

He won't be shooting any clippings with a mulch kit on his. I wouldn't own another mower without it.

 

[WinterDeere]

He won't be shooting any clippings with a mulch kit on his. I wouldn't own another mower without it.

Agreed. For some reason, I read that post as it being a kit he'd be installing only in the fall.

I tend to like mulching (Gator type) blades on a standard side-shooter deck, as I can use that to simultaneously shred and shoot all leaves towards the woods that boarders my property, in the fall.

 

[workinonit]

I just mulch all of mine. Pretty amazing how they disappear.

 

[rmonio]

Agreed. For some reason, I read that post as it being a kit he'd be installing only in the fall.

I tend to like mulching (Gator type) blades on a standard side-shooter deck, as I can use that to simultaneously shred and shoot all leaves towards the woods that boarders my property, in the fall.

I bought the kit vs. the mulching deck as the components are not removable on the deck. I had figured I would use it in the fall when I have leaves to mulch.... but I guess that depends on how things progress.

I'm just surprised by how fast these things go. wow.

 

[workinonit]

All of my mulching kits have been permanent. I guess you could take them off but you wouldn't want to. I love mulching everything.

 

[WinterDeere]

I just mulch all of mine. Pretty amazing how they disappear.

Does it take a lot of passes? We have a lot of trees surrounding and in our yard, and the massive silver maple trees in particular, absolutely blanket the yard in leaves. My mulching blades probably manage to pulverize 1/4 to 1/2 the total leaf mass, leaving it in the lawn, but I still end up shooting the remainder into the woods and gardens that surround the property.

Grinding it all into the lawn would shift soil pH and screw with my carefully-managed fertilization plan, but all that can be worked out with a little testing and trial. My mower could easily last another 10+ years, but seeing as I will probably keep this property longer than that, upgrading now might not be the worst thing in the world.

I did price out the mulching deck for my mower, but the stamped pan alone was like $3800. They said to figure over $7k to build that deck from the parts counter, since the mower is out of production now.

 

[rmonio]

All of my mulching kits have been permanent. I guess you could take them off but you wouldn't want to. I love mulching everything.

I'll keep that in mind after putting it on. If it does the job, then why change. Clippings make good fertilizer. Thanks!

 

[WinterDeere]

I'm just surprised by how fast these things go. wow.

LOL... I remember thinking that, at first. Like every fast car you've ever owned, it starts to feel slower with time. Particularly in October/November, when it's effing cold out (with added 10 mph windchill!) and you're racing to beat sunset on each mowing... then it'll feel too slow!

 

[rmonio]

Does it take a lot of passes? We have a lot of trees surrounding and in our yard, and the massive silver maple trees in particular, absolutely blanket the yard in leaves. My mulching blades probably manage to pulverize 1/4 to 1/2 the total leaf mass, leaving it in the lawn, but I still end up shooting the remainder into the woods and gardens that surround the property.

Grinding it all into the lawn would shift soil pH and screw with my carefully-managed fertilization plan, but all that can be worked out with a little testing and trial. My mower could easily last another 10+ years, but seeing as I will probably keep this property longer than that, upgrading now might not be the worst thing in the world.

I did price out the mulching deck for my mower, but the stamped pan alone was like $3800. They said to figure over $7k to build that deck from the parts counter, since the mower is out of production now.

My JD dealer advised against it. He indicated that once you put it on it can be a costly repair to it if something goes wrong. if you have a way of getting under and putting the kit on, then it is a cheaper alternative.

 

[rmonio]

LOL... I remember thinking that, at first. Like every fast car you've ever owned, it starts to feel slower with time. Particularly in October/November, when it's effing cold out (with added 10 mph windchill!) and you're racing to beat sunset on each mowing... then it'll feel too slow!

Can't be any slower than a lawn tractor at full RPM (loud as hell) putt-putting across a 5-hour grass cutting chore....

 

[WinterDeere]

My JD dealer advised against it. He indicated that once you put it on it can be a costly repair to it if something goes wrong. if you have a way of getting under and putting the kit on, then it is a cheaper alternative.

They still had the kits NOS for a few hundred on ebay two years ago, maybe I should've grabbed one then! I'll check again tonight.

 

[rmonio]

Argh. I had my delivery this week and unfortunately the raising/lowering of the deck would not work. Tech came out, looked at it, and needs to take it in. Puzzling…. You‘d think they would have checked that before they came out with it.

I’ve never had issues with this dealer - so it is a first. But frustrating as I waned to use it to cut my grass today and had to revert to the X320..

oh well!

 

[rmonio]

Basic theory:

1. Do two perimeter passes, clockwise to shoot all clippings onto your own lawn rather than street/neighbors.
2. Do two passes around each building, counterclockwise to shoot all clippings away from building/patios.
3. Pick a property line as your alignment, and start making stripes.
4. Learn to do K-turns (or "Y-turns") at end of each strip. You do not pivot on the spot, that will tear a divot out of the lawn at the end of each stripe.
5. Use a different property line or diagonal for each mowing, preferably having 4 different directions (N-S, E-W, NE-SW, NW-SE) to even out wear and rutting.

There are many finer points, but this will get you started. Oh, and learn to use mower deck lift pedal at every bump, esp. if deck is 60" or over. After some practice, you may choose to reduce your perimeter passes to one, after you've learned more efficient K-turns. It's a matter of care versus speed, and I tend to do just one perimeter pass but two passes around buildings.

I’ve just started to use my Z-Turn and it will take some getting used to when it comes to speed. My yard is a bit bumpy in spots so rather than going too fast, I’m taking it slow. I also have alot of obstacles (flower beds, etc.), so I’m thinking that until I’m really used to the turning, speed, and management of the blade width/spots, I’ll just need to take it slow. Agree?

Thanks for your insight, @WinterDeere !

 

[rmonio]

Argh. I had my delivery this week and unfortunately the raising/lowering of the deck would not work. Tech came out, looked at it, and needs to take it in. Puzzling…. You‘d think they would have checked that before they came out with it.

I’ve never had issues with this dealer - so it is a first. But frustrating as I waned to use it to cut my grass today and had to revert to the X320..

oh well!

Problem resolved. Apparently a fuse was corroded (from sitting on the lot - the cover was bad) and now things work great!

 

[rmonio]

Question on Servicing…. Do the folks here do their own service/maintenance?