Z930R - Zero Turn Purchase - Comments and Rules of Thumb?

[WinterDeere]

I’ll just need to take it slow. Agree?

Sounds like a plan. Honestly, going slow when whipping around flower beds and stuff is always a good idea, since lateral G's are what tears out grass, and that's directly proportional to speed. I can mow within 0.5 inches of a flower bed or edging at full speed, on flat terrain, but usually take it slower near turns to minimize tear-out.

 

[gstrom99]

Question on Servicing…. Do the folks here do their own service/maintenance?

I signed up for the dlr's extending the JD warranty, if they do the service work. I do it instead anyway. Pretty easy, really.

 

[WinterDeere]

Question on Servicing…. Do the folks here do their own service/maintenance?

I do my own. The regular yearly maintenance is super-easy. Depending on your engine skills, you may choose to take it to the dealer when bigger items come up (head removal for carbon cleaning, etc.), but those items happen on decade-long time scales (2000 hours) for home-user profiles.

Here's my yearly maintenance:

1. Wash the mower at end of season, then stick it in a heated/conditioned garage space long enough to be sure everything is dry for winter storage.
2. Throw down my 2-piece RaceRamps (TM), and drive mower up onto them.
3. Remove lower section of RaceRamps, for easy side access under deck.
4. Remove rear engine guard from mower.
5. Slide oil pan under engine and open oil drain while engine is warm. Also spin off oil filter and drop that in the pan.
6. Remove air cleaner cover and blow out air cleaner with compressed air (outside). Replace if due or needed.
7. Pull out the manual to remember all the grease points, and grab a grease gun. Grease all 10 or 11 points (3 spindles + 4 mower hanger blocks + 2 brake pivots + height adjust.
8. Wet new oil filter o-ring, and spin it onto engine.
9. Close drain and refill with 90% of sump capacity. You won't be able to check with dipstick until you have the mower off the ramps.
10. Remove blades with 1/2" air impact or similar, and scrape underside of mower deck clean. They make special rounded flexible putty knives for this, well worth your $11 or $13.
11. Wipe a bit of antiseize compound on blade bolts, these things are always damp, and get nasty without it.
12. Grab spare set of blades out of storage, sharpened at some point prior to this, and install. Run bolts in by hand to be sure blade seats neat and clean on boss, then snug with a quick squeeze on the 1/2" air impact driver. You obviously want the blades snug, but don't go full-gorilla on these, it only makes them harder to remove later. Blade spin direction is usually designed to ensure these bolts can never spin loose on their own.
13. Back it off the ramps, shut down.
14. Check pressure on all tires and adjust. Debug/tube/replace any tire showing abnormal air loss.
15. Check dipstick, adjust oil level as needed.
16. Park it in the shed, connect BatteryTender or other similar battery maintainer. Ready for next season.

Ignoring the washing, which usually happens separately from the rest on the day of last mowing, all the rest of this probably takes me 60 - 90 minutes, with the biggest variable being the mower deck scraping.

If you take it to dealer for service, you'll still want to do the scraping and washing on your own. They usually just change fluids and grase zerks.

 

[rmonio]

I do my own. The regular yearly maintenance is super-easy. Depending on your engine skills, you may choose to take it to the dealer when bigger items come up (head removal for carbon cleaning, etc.), but those items happen on decade-long time scales (2000 hours) for home-user profiles.

Here's my yearly maintenance:

1. Wash the mower at end of season, then stick it in a heated/conditioned garage space long enough to be sure everything is dry for winter storage.
2. Throw down my 2-piece RaceRamps (TM), and drive mower up onto them.
3. Remove lower section of RaceRamps, for easy side access under deck.
4. Remove rear engine guard from mower.
5. Slide oil pan under engine and open oil drain while engine is warm. Also spin off oil filter and drop that in the pan.
6. Remove air cleaner cover and blow out air cleaner with compressed air (outside). Replace if due or needed.
7. Pull out the manual to remember all the grease points, and grab a grease gun. Grease all 10 or 11 points (3 spindles + 4 mower hanger blocks + 2 brake pivots + height adjust.
8. Wet new oil filter o-ring, and spin it onto engine.
9. Close drain and refill with 90% of sump capacity. You won't be able to check with dipstick until you have the mower off the ramps.
10. Remove blades with 1/2" air impact or similar, and scrape underside of mower deck clean. They make special rounded flexible putty knives for this, well worth your $11 or $13.
11. Wipe a bit of antiseize compound on blade bolts, these things are always damp, and get nasty without it.
12. Grab spare set of blades out of storage, sharpened at some point prior to this, and install. Run bolts in by hand to be sure blade seats neat and clean on boss, then snug with a quick squeeze on the 1/2" air impact driver. You obviously want the blades snug, but don't go full-gorilla on these, it only makes them harder to remove later. Blade spin direction is usually designed to ensure these bolts can never spin loose on their own.
13. Back it off the ramps, shut down.
14. Check pressure on all tires and adjust. Debug/tube/replace any tire showing abnormal air loss.
15. Check dipstick, adjust oil level as needed.
16. Park it in the shed, connect BatteryTender or other similar battery maintainer. Ready for next season.

Ignoring the washing, which usually happens separately from the rest on the day of last mowing, all the rest of this probably takes me 60 - 90 minutes, with the biggest variable being the mower deck scraping.

If you take it to dealer for service, you'll still want to do the scraping and washing on your own. They usually just change fluids and grase zerks.

This is quite a checklist. Did you get it from the manual?

I’ve bookmarked it and will definitely look at doing this myself. I do my own work on my JD 4600 and JD B and enjoy it. I might have to check my ramps though as I don’t know how reliable they are (they are quite old).

Thanks for sharing!

 

[Carl_NH]

After every mowing I blow out the deck and everything with a leaf blower before putting in the barn. Keeps it cleaner. I don't mow when wet so don't get grass build up,and leaves and sticks in the fall tend to clean the underside of the deck.

Average about 35 hours a year - so do two blade sharpening and machine greasing - one early and one late season to chop up leaves. Then oil/filter every two years (~70 hours) and hydro oil (15-50 Mobil 1) filter every 6 years ~ 200 hours.

 

[rmonio]

After every mowing I blow out the deck and everything with a leaf blower before putting in the barn. Keeps it cleaner. I don't mow when wet so don't get grass build up,and leaves and sticks in the fall tend to clean the underside of the deck.

Average about 35 hours a year - so do two blade sharpening and machine greasing - one early and one late season to chop up leaves. Then oil/filter every two years (~70 hours) and hydro oil (15-50 Mobil 1) filter every 6 years ~ 200 hours.

Thanks for the insight. I don't know what my hours will be - yet - but I'm sure it will be less than it was for my X320. .

 

[Carl_NH]

Venture to say roughly half - I went from 2 hours to 1 or a little more if I double cut some heavy areas - I don't mulch but using Gator G6 blades does a nice job.

 

[rmonio]

Venture to say roughly half - I went from 2 hours to 1 or a little more if I double cut some heavy areas - I don't mulch but using Gator G6 blades does a nice job.

I'm hoping for the same ROI - for sure.

 

[WinterDeere]

This is quite a checklist. Did you get it from the manual?

That’s summarized from memory, but originally came from the manual. Manual will have one section giving the schedule for service items, then usually a separate section giving the how-to for each item.

Sharpening blades every 35 hours is a lot, IMO. I do 100 hours per year, and they barely show any wear at all in that time. Conversely, i would not wait two years between oil changes, even if hours were as low as 35/year. I’ve always been told there are corrosive contaminants in crankcase oil that should never be left over winter storage. The 1.6 qt of oil most of these take is super-cheap peace of mind, I don’t see any point in stretching that.

 

[rmonio]

I agree on the maintenance timing. I usually get the maintenance kit from JD with everything in it.

 

[WinterDeere]

. I might have to check my ramps though as I don’t know how reliable they are (they are quite old).

ZTR front ends are really light, balanced to minimize ground pressure from smaller caster wheel tires. I’ve manually lifted the front of the mower with only 2:1 or 3:1 block and tackle, in cases where ramps were less convenient. Just be sure to block it up safely before crawling under.

 

[WinterDeere]

I was mowing yesterday and thought of this thread, and that I forgot to mention the deck lift pedal. You mentioned a lumpy lawn, meaning you're going to be using that pedal a lot to avoid scalping and bounce. Eventually you'll get to know and predict where every bump and dip is on your property, from every direction.

There's an art to keeping your foot on the mower deck lift pedal, with just enough pressure to avoid deck bounce on lumpy terrain. I mostly use this when crossing my driveway or tree roots at speed, since the rest of my lawn is relatively smooth.

The idea is that you put a few pounds of pressure on the deck lift pedal, not enough to lift the deck, but enough to help Mother Inertia keep that deck at a constant height as the mower frame bounces and slams over tree roots, your driveway shoulders, or in your case... lumps in the lawn. The amount of pressure required will be dictated by how the lift assist springs are set on your deck, and the weight of the deck itself, but start with something on the order of the pressure required for heavy braking in a car.

What happens without this is that the whole machine slamming over a surface root from a tree, or any other lump in your lawn, causes the machine to initially lift and then slam down. The tires compress, as your primary shock absorber, and you end up with two or three nice little crop circles of very short or scalped grass in your lawn on the far side of the obstacle, according to the spindle count of your deck. It's also kinda hard on the machine, bouncing the whole deck like that, although I'm sure they can take it. With just a little foot pressure on the mower deck lift pedal, the deck can ride at constant height, as you and the rest of the carriage bounce over the obstacle. Your leg becomes the shock absorber.

I do not mow my whole lawn with my foot on that pedal, because I know by now where every lump and dip is. It's second nature without even thinking about it anymore, for me to get my foot onto that pedal before going over each of my lumpy spots, or before crossing the driveway (which I might do 25x, depending on striping direction).

 

[workinonit]

That deck pedal is a knee killer. Much longer running my 920 around my oak trees and I would have been having a knee replacement. Thank goodness for Kubota and their deck lift. Around my trees was the only place I had to get on that pedal. just cutting grass I never touched it. And I cut grass at 1.5".

 

[rmonio]

I have the deck lift on the unit I bought, so I’ll be using that to lift as I go. Thanks, though!

 

[FPGT72]

Question on Servicing…. Do the folks here do their own service/maintenance?

I also do my own, and I think it really depends on your specific use in this case.

For me mowing my area is usually about a 3-3.5 hour affair, I will grease it several times per season, and sharpen the blades at the same time. Good time to check the blades as well, my wife has bent a blade or two in her time. The oil change interval on my mower is quite long 400 hours, but I doubt I will let it go that long. I did change it at the end of the season last year at 60hrs, just felt that was long enough for the "break in" oil. I will likely change it every other season.

I really think that greasing and the blades are the thing that should be done a few times a season, even if you have a small push mower I think you should sharpen the blade at least once a season, you will get to know your machine and know what it needs.

These machines are a big investment, hell even the little push mowers are expensive in my book, the better you take care of them the longer they will last.

I have a 24yr old Craftsman (Husqvarna) with 900 hours and it is still going strong, because I took care of it and stored it in the barn out of the weather. I have an old 80's Ford YT16 that while it is a smokey beast still runs great. It does not mow much anymore, usually areas where there might be gravel, it is still going strong, god only knows how many hours it has. Just replaced the belt for the first time a few days ago, still on the original drive belt.

Take care of these machines and they will last you a long time.

 

[FPGT72]

I will also chime in there with, the wife does most of the mowing, she loves the new mower:

She will also mow as fast as the thing will go. Our "yard" is bumpy as all hell, but this thing really soaks up the bumps. She has bent a blade on this one, I try to tell her to slow down a little, I see she is now slowing down for the mole hills, I guess that is a win. But most of the time it is balls out.

One reason I went with this machine is because how it will do over the bumps, at the time it was the only game in town.

It was pretty darn expensive, I would buy it again it is that big of a time saver, but damn they are expensive.

It will likely outlast me.

 

[WinterDeere]

I have the deck lift on the unit I bought, so I’ll be using that to lift as I go. Thanks, though!

How's the deck lift work? Not the usual spring-assisted pedal arrangement?

I will grease it several times per season... end of the season last year at 60hrs

You're greasing your spindles several times, all inside 60 hours? What's the recommended interval, in your manual?

Not saying you're wrong, but actually wondering if I'm not doing mine enough. I run 75 - 120 hours per year, and grease them once per year. For some perspective, that'd be every 2-3 weeks of pro use.

...long enough for the "break in" oil. I will likely change it every other season.

Oil can go a long time, probably many hundreds of hours if used continuously, but aren't you concerned about leaving corrosive combustion contaminants in the crankcase over winter storage?

These machines are a big investment, hell even the little push mowers are expensive in my book, the better you take care of them the longer they will last.

Exactly. So, spend $15 and change the oil more than once every 2 years!

I have a 24yr old Craftsman (Husqvarna) with 900 hours and it is still going strong, because I took care of it and stored it in the barn out of the weather.

I still have and use a 1971 Toro push mower. It was my only/primary mower at two houses prior to this one, but here it just gets used for odd jobs. I also had a 1963 Cub Cadet 123, until about ten years ago. Both got yearly oil changes, even if used only once during the preceding year.

I will also chime in there with, the wife does most of the mowing, she loves the new mower:
View attachment 871534

She will also mow as fast as the thing will go. Our "yard" is bumpy as all hell, but this thing really soaks up the bumps. She has bent a blade on this one, I try to tell her to slow down a little, I see she is now slowing down for the mole hills, I guess that is a win. But most of the time it is balls out.

That is a beautiful machine! I always wondered how the deck stays at a constant height with shock absorbers, though? Always seems like the shock absorbers would cause the deck to dip in hard turns, etc.

 

[Carl_NH]

Hi Winter deere - I have a similar Ferris (2010 model IS 2000) with 25 HP Kawasaki FH751 with full suspension and going over bumps and dips, the deck moves with the suspension and does not scalp.

But yes, some areas (rock outcrops or high roots) I use the deck lift pedal only a few places and my yard is reclaimed forest, so not smooth as over the years things settle.

As far as oil changes, Kawasaki manual says every 100 hrs - so I do ~70 hrs and use Mobil 1 and no ill effects. Also have 1811 Cub Cadet new in 1989, 800 hrs same bearings in deck and similar oil changes and grease interval for over 25 years its still running well - not mowing anymore tho.

Just keep them inside, clean, and maintained and they will outlast me!

 

[FPGT72]

How's the deck lift work? Not the usual spring-assisted pedal arrangement?


You're greasing your spindles several times, all inside 60 hours? What's the recommended interval, in your manual?

Not saying you're wrong, but actually wondering if I'm not doing mine enough. I run 75 - 120 hours per year, and grease them once per year. For some perspective, that'd be every 2-3 weeks of pro use.


Oil can go a long time, probably many hundreds of hours if used continuously, but aren't you concerned about leaving corrosive combustion contaminants in the crankcase over winter storage?


Exactly. So, spend $15 and change the oil more than once every 2 years!


I still have and use a 1971 Toro push mower. It was my only/primary mower at two houses prior to this one, but here it just gets used for odd jobs. I also had a 1963 Cub Cadet 123, until about ten years ago. Both got yearly oil changes, even if used only once during the preceding year.


That is a beautiful machine! I always wondered how the deck stays at a constant height with shock absorbers, though? Always seems like the shock absorbers would cause the deck to dip in hard turns, etc.

Yes I do grease at least twice a year. Not sure what the manual says on that one. This mower was darn near $20,000 extra grease is good for my bit of mind. And having the same mower I had in 1985, and a craftsman I bought new in 1999 tells me I must be doing something right.

Oil the suggested interval is 400 hours. I don't like that, and for the record I don't like the long interval for new cars, the wifes new car is 8000 miles. No. My tinfoil hat tells me this is to reduce the amount of used oil, and to force cars to be replaced more often. I am not worried about the oil over winter. It is stored inside and on a tender. I think that helps some.

The oil change is just a tick more then $15, and I still need to buy one more quart, it holds 6 quarts.

The deck stays at a specific height due to the way it is suspended. I am shocked it works this well.

 

[WinterDeere]

Wow... 6 quarts?!? For decades, the standard engine on all commercial 60" zero-turns was the Kawasaki 25 hp V-twin, and that takes something like 1.6 or 1.8 quarts, depending on specific configuration. My $15 comment was based on that, and honestly probably a little dated for inflation, but I don't really think the cost matters much against the cost of the machine.

I love the suspension. I negotiated my then-nearly-new Deere ZTrak in with the purchase of my house, the prior owner had bought it just two years prior, and didn't really need it where he was going. It's a great mower, but would not have been my first choice, since the Deere ZTraks are well-known for being way stiffer than nearly any other commercial zero-turn. It mows great, but literally beats the hell out of me.

I just pulled up the maintenance spreadsheet I keep on all my OPE, and see I marked the greasing interval as "50 hours or yearly, whichever comes first". So, I guess I should also be doing a mid-season greasing. I probably do only 75 hours of actual mowing per year, but put more hours on the engine and hydro by using that machine to tow walnut harvesters around the yard for a few weeks each fall.

My oil change interval also has an "or yearly" clause, meaning it should never be left more than a year, no matter what the hours are. Again, manufacturer recommendation, YMMV.