I have found that some of the zerks are pressed in. I had one missing from my new FEL and found out it was pressed in. The dealer gave me a replacement and told me the way to put it in was to place a 1/4' socket over it and rap with a hammer. It worked just fine but just wanted to say that they don't all screw out. Danny /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
zirk weirdness
- Thread starter rcrcomputing
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rcrcomputing
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Try taking the pressure off the part that gets the grease. In other words, if it's that front zerk in the center of the pivot between the axles, you may be able to lift it up with the loader and then try. Also turn the wheels to different angles to see if that helps.
On any of the zerks that are on movable parts, you can often get them to accept grease by changing the moving parts position.
I've often had that problem on a coupld of the zerks near the bucket, but curling or rolling it back usually takes care of it.
John )</font>
You know, I read thru this message eariler but did not quite get it. You mean take the pressure off the wheels. Not just raise the tractor up. It was already raised up so..... doh! I'll give it a try.
Though someone said another kioti was this way on that particular fitting. Could it be a "closed" system and when it get's full, no grease can be added??
On any of the zerks that are on movable parts, you can often get them to accept grease by changing the moving parts position.
I've often had that problem on a coupld of the zerks near the bucket, but curling or rolling it back usually takes care of it.
John )</font>
You know, I read thru this message eariler but did not quite get it. You mean take the pressure off the wheels. Not just raise the tractor up. It was already raised up so..... doh! I'll give it a try.
Though someone said another kioti was this way on that particular fitting. Could it be a "closed" system and when it get's full, no grease can be added??
frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Could it be a "closed" system and when it get's full, no grease can be added??
)</font>
I WOULD DOUBT THAT. But i would not swear to it. Were they the same 2 fittings, only on opposite sides?
)</font>
I WOULD DOUBT THAT. But i would not swear to it. Were they the same 2 fittings, only on opposite sides?
MMM
Platinum Member
While lifted, clean the hole and observe "shiney bottom" while moving axle. Should be able to tell if you're looking at pin or bushing by whether it moves or not.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( While lifted, clean the hole and observe "shiney bottom" while moving axle. Should be able to tell if you're looking at pin or bushing by whether it moves or not. )</font>
that's a great idea MMM. Tomorrow I'm going to look into that on mine. I've actually had different ones of the three zerks in that location not want to accept grease at times, but I didn't go beyond raising the tractor. It's possible that when I did, the wheels turned enough to line up a tract to the inside and allowed the grease in. Tomorrow I'll know for sure just how it works. Will post my findings tomorrow.
John
that's a great idea MMM. Tomorrow I'm going to look into that on mine. I've actually had different ones of the three zerks in that location not want to accept grease at times, but I didn't go beyond raising the tractor. It's possible that when I did, the wheels turned enough to line up a tract to the inside and allowed the grease in. Tomorrow I'll know for sure just how it works. Will post my findings tomorrow.
John
Okay, this is what I did. I took out the pivot bolt so I could look into the space where the zerk allow grease to go. There is a very tight tolerance there, and it only accepts a little grease.
Do this, and be careful not to move the Jam nut. Use only the outside most nut and remove it. Hook your grease gun to the zerk and blast some in. It will start to come out of the hole for the pivot bolt. When you put the pivot bolt back in, it will push the grease back out of the zerk. But at least that way, you'll know you got grease in there. What I will do from now on, is to add some grease, drive a bit, and then do it again just to assure that what I first put in got distributed well.
Now in all of this, I discovered that I was not getting a good greasing in the right side steering cylinder pivot. I took the zerk out, spayed inside with PB Blaster and cleaned around in there to try to remove any hardened grease of whatever may have been blocking it. I then blew it out with high pressure air to dry up the excess and then replaced the zerk. I could get enough grease in that I saw it start to come out around the top, so that's good enough. On both sides you should be able to get grease to come out around the top and sides.
I had never had so much trouble getting these to grease before!
If you need to ask me anything, send it to my e-mail.
John
Do this, and be careful not to move the Jam nut. Use only the outside most nut and remove it. Hook your grease gun to the zerk and blast some in. It will start to come out of the hole for the pivot bolt. When you put the pivot bolt back in, it will push the grease back out of the zerk. But at least that way, you'll know you got grease in there. What I will do from now on, is to add some grease, drive a bit, and then do it again just to assure that what I first put in got distributed well.
Now in all of this, I discovered that I was not getting a good greasing in the right side steering cylinder pivot. I took the zerk out, spayed inside with PB Blaster and cleaned around in there to try to remove any hardened grease of whatever may have been blocking it. I then blew it out with high pressure air to dry up the excess and then replaced the zerk. I could get enough grease in that I saw it start to come out around the top, so that's good enough. On both sides you should be able to get grease to come out around the top and sides.
I had never had so much trouble getting these to grease before!
If you need to ask me anything, send it to my e-mail.
John
I regularly have to lift the front end off the ground with my FEL to get that particular fitting to take grease on my CK20. When the front end has weight, I have actually blown a grease gun hose trying to force it in. Boy what a mess when I did that. I typically lift the front end with the FEL, put the grease gun on the fitting (while on my back) and using my legs, I move the front axle up and down on that pivot point while pumping the grease in.
I also have to grease a couple of the FEL pivot points with my wife on the tractor and it running. She actually has to wiggle the lever so that I can get a good greasing on a couple of those joints. Simple releasing the pressure doesn't always do it.
I also have to grease a couple of the FEL pivot points with my wife on the tractor and it running. She actually has to wiggle the lever so that I can get a good greasing on a couple of those joints. Simple releasing the pressure doesn't always do it.
Syncro
Platinum Member
<font color="blue"> "Also there are fittings for running tubing with a zerk at end for your hard to reach spots. " </font>
Is this a permanent setup with the tube? I have a couple zirks that the angle is such that I can't get the grease gun to grab. I tried different angle fittings which are either too much or too little angle, seems like a short flex hose would be the ticket if I read this right. Is there an on line outlet for these?
Is this a permanent setup with the tube? I have a couple zirks that the angle is such that I can't get the grease gun to grab. I tried different angle fittings which are either too much or too little angle, seems like a short flex hose would be the ticket if I read this right. Is there an on line outlet for these?
Syncro
Platinum Member
<font color="blue"> Do you guys not replace the steel hose on your grease guns with the flexible reinforced plastic ones?
</font>
Yes I have a thin flex tube on the grease gun, but the problem is that the metal coupling on the end on the tube is to fat to get into the tight confines where the zerk is. I believe I'm using the thinist metal coupling made, but its still not able to grab the fitting. I thought that if there were a threaded hose with a zerk attached to the other end it could be screwed permanently in and routed out in the open. The hose extension would only need to be an inch or so long to give enough clearance.
</font>
Yes I have a thin flex tube on the grease gun, but the problem is that the metal coupling on the end on the tube is to fat to get into the tight confines where the zerk is. I believe I'm using the thinist metal coupling made, but its still not able to grab the fitting. I thought that if there were a threaded hose with a zerk attached to the other end it could be screwed permanently in and routed out in the open. The hose extension would only need to be an inch or so long to give enough clearance.
