I have found that some of the zerks are pressed in. I had one missing from my new FEL and found out it was pressed in. The dealer gave me a replacement and told me the way to put it in was to place a 1/4' socket over it and rap with a hammer. It worked just fine but just wanted to say that they don't all screw out. Danny /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
zirk weirdness
- Thread starter rcrcomputing
- Start date
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OP
rcrcomputing
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Try taking the pressure off the part that gets the grease. In other words, if it's that front zerk in the center of the pivot between the axles, you may be able to lift it up with the loader and then try. Also turn the wheels to different angles to see if that helps.
On any of the zerks that are on movable parts, you can often get them to accept grease by changing the moving parts position.
I've often had that problem on a coupld of the zerks near the bucket, but curling or rolling it back usually takes care of it.
John )</font>
You know, I read thru this message eariler but did not quite get it. You mean take the pressure off the wheels. Not just raise the tractor up. It was already raised up so..... doh! I'll give it a try.
Though someone said another kioti was this way on that particular fitting. Could it be a "closed" system and when it get's full, no grease can be added??
On any of the zerks that are on movable parts, you can often get them to accept grease by changing the moving parts position.
I've often had that problem on a coupld of the zerks near the bucket, but curling or rolling it back usually takes care of it.
John )</font>
You know, I read thru this message eariler but did not quite get it. You mean take the pressure off the wheels. Not just raise the tractor up. It was already raised up so..... doh! I'll give it a try.
Though someone said another kioti was this way on that particular fitting. Could it be a "closed" system and when it get's full, no grease can be added??
frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Could it be a "closed" system and when it get's full, no grease can be added??
)</font>
I WOULD DOUBT THAT. But i would not swear to it. Were they the same 2 fittings, only on opposite sides?
)</font>
I WOULD DOUBT THAT. But i would not swear to it. Were they the same 2 fittings, only on opposite sides?
MMM
Platinum Member
While lifted, clean the hole and observe "shiney bottom" while moving axle. Should be able to tell if you're looking at pin or bushing by whether it moves or not.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( While lifted, clean the hole and observe "shiney bottom" while moving axle. Should be able to tell if you're looking at pin or bushing by whether it moves or not. )</font>
that's a great idea MMM. Tomorrow I'm going to look into that on mine. I've actually had different ones of the three zerks in that location not want to accept grease at times, but I didn't go beyond raising the tractor. It's possible that when I did, the wheels turned enough to line up a tract to the inside and allowed the grease in. Tomorrow I'll know for sure just how it works. Will post my findings tomorrow.
John
that's a great idea MMM. Tomorrow I'm going to look into that on mine. I've actually had different ones of the three zerks in that location not want to accept grease at times, but I didn't go beyond raising the tractor. It's possible that when I did, the wheels turned enough to line up a tract to the inside and allowed the grease in. Tomorrow I'll know for sure just how it works. Will post my findings tomorrow.
John
Okay, this is what I did. I took out the pivot bolt so I could look into the space where the zerk allow grease to go. There is a very tight tolerance there, and it only accepts a little grease.
Do this, and be careful not to move the Jam nut. Use only the outside most nut and remove it. Hook your grease gun to the zerk and blast some in. It will start to come out of the hole for the pivot bolt. When you put the pivot bolt back in, it will push the grease back out of the zerk. But at least that way, you'll know you got grease in there. What I will do from now on, is to add some grease, drive a bit, and then do it again just to assure that what I first put in got distributed well.
Now in all of this, I discovered that I was not getting a good greasing in the right side steering cylinder pivot. I took the zerk out, spayed inside with PB Blaster and cleaned around in there to try to remove any hardened grease of whatever may have been blocking it. I then blew it out with high pressure air to dry up the excess and then replaced the zerk. I could get enough grease in that I saw it start to come out around the top, so that's good enough. On both sides you should be able to get grease to come out around the top and sides.
I had never had so much trouble getting these to grease before!
If you need to ask me anything, send it to my e-mail.
John
Do this, and be careful not to move the Jam nut. Use only the outside most nut and remove it. Hook your grease gun to the zerk and blast some in. It will start to come out of the hole for the pivot bolt. When you put the pivot bolt back in, it will push the grease back out of the zerk. But at least that way, you'll know you got grease in there. What I will do from now on, is to add some grease, drive a bit, and then do it again just to assure that what I first put in got distributed well.
Now in all of this, I discovered that I was not getting a good greasing in the right side steering cylinder pivot. I took the zerk out, spayed inside with PB Blaster and cleaned around in there to try to remove any hardened grease of whatever may have been blocking it. I then blew it out with high pressure air to dry up the excess and then replaced the zerk. I could get enough grease in that I saw it start to come out around the top, so that's good enough. On both sides you should be able to get grease to come out around the top and sides.
I had never had so much trouble getting these to grease before!
If you need to ask me anything, send it to my e-mail.
John
I regularly have to lift the front end off the ground with my FEL to get that particular fitting to take grease on my CK20. When the front end has weight, I have actually blown a grease gun hose trying to force it in. Boy what a mess when I did that. I typically lift the front end with the FEL, put the grease gun on the fitting (while on my back) and using my legs, I move the front axle up and down on that pivot point while pumping the grease in.
I also have to grease a couple of the FEL pivot points with my wife on the tractor and it running. She actually has to wiggle the lever so that I can get a good greasing on a couple of those joints. Simple releasing the pressure doesn't always do it.
I also have to grease a couple of the FEL pivot points with my wife on the tractor and it running. She actually has to wiggle the lever so that I can get a good greasing on a couple of those joints. Simple releasing the pressure doesn't always do it.
Syncro
Platinum Member
<font color="blue"> "Also there are fittings for running tubing with a zerk at end for your hard to reach spots. " </font>
Is this a permanent setup with the tube? I have a couple zirks that the angle is such that I can't get the grease gun to grab. I tried different angle fittings which are either too much or too little angle, seems like a short flex hose would be the ticket if I read this right. Is there an on line outlet for these?
Is this a permanent setup with the tube? I have a couple zirks that the angle is such that I can't get the grease gun to grab. I tried different angle fittings which are either too much or too little angle, seems like a short flex hose would be the ticket if I read this right. Is there an on line outlet for these?
Syncro
Platinum Member
<font color="blue"> Do you guys not replace the steel hose on your grease guns with the flexible reinforced plastic ones?
</font>
Yes I have a thin flex tube on the grease gun, but the problem is that the metal coupling on the end on the tube is to fat to get into the tight confines where the zerk is. I believe I'm using the thinist metal coupling made, but its still not able to grab the fitting. I thought that if there were a threaded hose with a zerk attached to the other end it could be screwed permanently in and routed out in the open. The hose extension would only need to be an inch or so long to give enough clearance.
</font>
Yes I have a thin flex tube on the grease gun, but the problem is that the metal coupling on the end on the tube is to fat to get into the tight confines where the zerk is. I believe I'm using the thinist metal coupling made, but its still not able to grab the fitting. I thought that if there were a threaded hose with a zerk attached to the other end it could be screwed permanently in and routed out in the open. The hose extension would only need to be an inch or so long to give enough clearance.
Synchro, maybe my CK20 is a little different than yours, but I can get on every zerk. Some take a little more work to grease than others, but I can get on each one.
Check this site to see some of the different types of extensions. Maybe one of these will help you out.
John
Grease fittings
Check this site to see some of the different types of extensions. Maybe one of these will help you out.
John
Grease fittings
OP
rcrcomputing
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Okay, this is what I did. I took out the pivot bolt so I could look into the space where the zerk allow grease to go. There is a very tight tolerance there, and it only accepts a little grease.
Do this, and be careful not to move the Jam nut. Use only the outside most nut and remove it. Hook your grease gun to the zerk and blast some in. It will start to come out of the hole for the pivot bolt. When you put the pivot bolt back in, it will push the grease back out of the zerk. But at least that way, you'll know you got grease in there. What I will do from now on, is to add some grease, drive a bit, and then do it again just to assure that what I first put in got distributed well.
Now in all of this, I discovered that I was not getting a good greasing in the right side steering cylinder pivot. I took the zerk out, spayed inside with PB Blaster and cleaned around in there to try to remove any hardened grease of whatever may have been blocking it. I then blew it out with high pressure air to dry up the excess and then replaced the zerk. I could get enough grease in that I saw it start to come out around the top, so that's good enough. On both sides you should be able to get grease to come out around the top and sides.
I had never had so much trouble getting these to grease before!
If you need to ask me anything, send it to my e-mail.
John )</font>
I guess the guy was right then. No place for the extra grease to go.. Thank you John. I saw that bolt, but would certainly not have touched it. I stay in my limits on automotive type stuff.
I just found out about peanut butter blaster last week. Neat stuff!
Thanks for looking into this. I appreciate it..
Do this, and be careful not to move the Jam nut. Use only the outside most nut and remove it. Hook your grease gun to the zerk and blast some in. It will start to come out of the hole for the pivot bolt. When you put the pivot bolt back in, it will push the grease back out of the zerk. But at least that way, you'll know you got grease in there. What I will do from now on, is to add some grease, drive a bit, and then do it again just to assure that what I first put in got distributed well.
Now in all of this, I discovered that I was not getting a good greasing in the right side steering cylinder pivot. I took the zerk out, spayed inside with PB Blaster and cleaned around in there to try to remove any hardened grease of whatever may have been blocking it. I then blew it out with high pressure air to dry up the excess and then replaced the zerk. I could get enough grease in that I saw it start to come out around the top, so that's good enough. On both sides you should be able to get grease to come out around the top and sides.
I had never had so much trouble getting these to grease before!
If you need to ask me anything, send it to my e-mail.
John )</font>
I guess the guy was right then. No place for the extra grease to go.. Thank you John. I saw that bolt, but would certainly not have touched it. I stay in my limits on automotive type stuff.
I just found out about peanut butter blaster last week. Neat stuff!
Thanks for looking into this. I appreciate it..
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I saw that bolt, but would certainly not have touched it. I stay in my limits on automotive type stuff. )</font>
Just in case you're interested in finding out a little more about that pivot bolt, read in the manual under the every 600 hours maintenance: adjusting front axle pivot, PP 10-20 I believe.
As long as you use just the outermost bolt head to remove the whole mechanism, you'll have no problem. Just don't adjust the second (jam) nut or you may change the measurements on the pivot (back and front spacing of the tires). When you replace the bolt, tighten it up to the rubber spacer on the inside of the jam nut. It wouldn't hurt to check the measurements on the tires once in a while also.
John
Just in case you're interested in finding out a little more about that pivot bolt, read in the manual under the every 600 hours maintenance: adjusting front axle pivot, PP 10-20 I believe.
As long as you use just the outermost bolt head to remove the whole mechanism, you'll have no problem. Just don't adjust the second (jam) nut or you may change the measurements on the pivot (back and front spacing of the tires). When you replace the bolt, tighten it up to the rubber spacer on the inside of the jam nut. It wouldn't hurt to check the measurements on the tires once in a while also.
John
PBinWA
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2004
- Messages
- 906
- Location
- WA
- Tractor
- Kioti NX55, Mahindra 2615, Case 36CXB, Case W4, Volvo MC85C
Syncro,
I share your grease gun woes. I hate grease zerks and grease guns!
If there was a particular brand/type of grease guns that would be guaranteed to stay on the zerk and not fall off then I would buy it!
Trying to get a flex hose onto a stubborn poorly placed zerk and then get some pressure behind it so it stays on the zerk is one of those things that always causes some profanity to fall out of my mouth.
There has got to be something better than zerks - they suck!
/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
I share your grease gun woes. I hate grease zerks and grease guns!
If there was a particular brand/type of grease guns that would be guaranteed to stay on the zerk and not fall off then I would buy it!
Trying to get a flex hose onto a stubborn poorly placed zerk and then get some pressure behind it so it stays on the zerk is one of those things that always causes some profanity to fall out of my mouth.
There has got to be something better than zerks - they suck!
/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
Jagmandave
Veteran Member
You could simply hard pipe it out to where you can reach it better. Most zerks are 1/8' pipe threads unless they're metric, buy a couple of small brass pipes and elbows if needed and put the zerk out where you can reach it, I do it all the time.....
PineRidge
Super Member
Or buy yourself a couple of the flex ends used on grease guns themselves. Screw one end in the hole where the Zerk fitting was, mount the other end in a convenient spot, add a coupling and a Zerk in the opposite end and you're all set. Never used this arrangement myself but don't know why it whouldn't suffice.
MMM
Platinum Member
Try a pistol grip gun. One hand for gun, other to keep coupling on serk. There are also clip on zerks and couplers. It has a wide head and slot in coupler.You slide the slot of coupler over the zerk and it locks. I can't remember the exact term for you to do a google.
creeper
Gold Member
Lincoln is the only gun I have found that will stay on a fitting while under pressure. Hopefully it would work for you also. They are available at Northern.
Holzster
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2004
- Messages
- 268
- Location
- North Texas (40 Miles South of OK)
- Tractor
- Kubota L4330 HST
I agree with MMM - A pistol grip & a flex hose is the only way to go - one hand for the fitting & one to squeeze.
I used to have non pistol grip one - I now reolize that a $31.00 purchase at TSC should have been made a long time ago!!!
I used to have non pistol grip one - I now reolize that a $31.00 purchase at TSC should have been made a long time ago!!!
OhioGuy
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2003
- Messages
- 595
- Location
- Northeast Ohio
- Tractor
- Ford 1220, Case 245, Cub SZ60, Cub 2284
I use a pistol grip with a flex hose, a lever type with a hard line and swivel connector and an air powered unit for al the zerks that are easy to access. I also bought a zerk kit from Harbor Freight that had 50 or so zerks and a combination wrench/tap to clean them.
I still encounter stuborn ones every now and then.
Curt
I still encounter stuborn ones every now and then.
Curt
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