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$130 was the total for the pair of hillers, they are only $65 each from Agri-Supply......$65 x 2 = $130 https://www.agrisupply.com/disc-hiller-with-shank-blanton-style/p/31752/

You are definitely a skilled craftsman with wood! I would be tempted to do a fiberglass overlay when done so it stays waterproof and lasts longer, but that's just me. I think I would also consider some drain ports in the bottom in case you have to drain out some rain water or for...

You were right on the money about the holes, like for a 3/4" hole you use a 3/4" drill bit. You were also right about lining up 2 tabs - I had the pin in the holes when I welded the tabs on, the pin helped with alignment but even then it made for an extremely tight fit as it still was off on...

Check your math there again guy, $200 + $40 + $130 = $370 Your link to "Garden Line Row Builder" shows $365 + shipping....the shipping was estimated at $111 to my house, so $365 + $111 = $476 which isn't too bad of a price, but I don't think the metal used on that one was as thick and the bar...

Got it made! I've already used it to hill up my mounds in the garden, and planted potatoes with it. The ripper shank makes a nice little furrow, might add a small sweep onto it to get a little wider, and I can just flip it over out of the way when I make a pass to cover up the potatoes...

That's a good point about amperage in swapping out the OEM bulbs.

Hey I have another question for you........I don't normally drill holes this large, I have a question about bolt/pin size and the correct drill bit to use. The toplink pin is 3/4" - do I drill with a 3/4" drill bit or do I need to go up to a 13/16" ? The bottom pins are 7/8" - do I drill with...

Thanks! I'm planning on 24" so it sounds like I'm on the right path then.

So the replacement bulbs had a loose mounting flange again? I probably would have tried to add some solder to make it hold better, you would think maybe the guy selling them might could do that for you to improve his product a little bit. Thanks for the positive review! I'm going to have to...

How tall is that mast (the vertical 2x2 going from the bar to the toplink)?

I went with these 1/2" diameter galvanized ones, which are the same ones used on my boat trailer with a 2x2 square axle. Should be more than ample strength with 1/2" diameter.

The 2"x2" bar - U-bolts for connection plates - were you able to use a 2" U-bolt (2" inside the legs) or did you have to go up to 2-1/16" or 2-1/8" between the legs? I'm afraid the 2" u-bolts won't clear the 2"x2" bar. What's your experience? Two options I've found, if I have to go more than...

That's a really cool setup!

Thanks!

For your lower pins of your 3-pt hitch - it's 4" x 4" angle that you used for the pins?

Thank you for that info! That's very helpful. You don't happen to a have photo of your second hiller where you added a pipe to place a cultivator shank in? I assume it was a just a vertical pipe that you could slide the cultivator shank in, and maybe have removable pins to adjust it up or...

They don't on their website, other than a $1,400 one that's more than what I need. I'm doing the simple one, for under $400 Here's all I saw on Agri Supply's site for one that's fully ready to go....... https://www.agrisupply.com/disc-bedder/p/84540/

Well I kind of said that already in the original post. I plan to order my hiller discs and parts and such from them for my build. I thought maybe you were referring to something else.

Tons of what?

Oh I know they ship, I've ordered a lot of parts from them in the past for various implements and tractor parts, and that's where I plan to get the discs from for my build.

Thanks! I looked at just buying one from them but at $393 + $85 shipping, that's way more than what I could just build one for. I'm definitely keeping that website on hand in case I need some future parts, they have lots of stuff that simply clamps onto a 2"x2" tool bar.

We don't have those here in western KY. Closest thing we've got is Rural King, which are all out of stock for a month or more.

With most places having no hillers in stock, and I can't find any on the used market without nearly new pricing, and can't even find a cheap one-row cultivator and modifying it to work, I've decided to just try and make one. I've looked at all the various threads on here, and they seem a bit...

Now that's exactly the kind of stuff I was hoping to get with this post! I will most definitely check measurement for that bulb as it looks like just what I am looking for. Thank you for sharing that!!!

I'm at the office right now and can take better pictures tonight, but I've found photos of it in online that match, Steiner Tractor Parts calls it an ABC359

I've got an odd headlight bulb, has hi and low beam, with a weird base. Marked as 12v45/45W Are there any good plug n play alternates out there? Any LED options for this bulb?

No HST, it's a shuttle shift.

Looks like Mobil Delvac is what I'll get. Lots of great reviews, great price, and it says it meets MF 1141

Thanks again for all of the info! I went to Tractor Supply and got 2.5 gallons of the Mobil 1 Delvac ESP Heavy Duty Full Synthetic 5W-40 for $54.99 It was slim pickings in the diesel oil aisle.

So you'd have no hesitation with running in 100 degree weather mowing with a 5w-40?

Internet orders have been doing okay, running at about 3 to 4 days. I didn't realize the Napa branded filter were simply Wix filters with the Napa paint/logo added. MASSEY-FERGUSON 3703386M1 CARQUEST 84110 NAPA 7110 Wix 557110 Wix 57110 Went with the Wix 57110 from Amazon, $33.83 with...

The lowest temp I ever run the tractor is at about 0 degrees Fahrenheit in winter, plowing the snow on the driveway, and our summers can get over 100 degrees Fahrenheit making for some hot days mowing. I think 15W-40 would be adequate as long as I go full synthetic to help with startup on those...

What's your take on conventional vs. synthetic blend vs. full synthetic in tractors? Thanks for posting this great info!

I didn't know about the XP designation - are the dimensions exactly the same? From what I looked up, the XP has an upgraded filter media to synthetic instead of cellulose, is that correct?

Or maybe this one, I've never heard of Providence, but the back of the bucket says Permatran III, this is at Rural King for $50 for 5 Gal:

And now I have found this stuff at NAPA (currently out of stock) that looks like it might work. Would it be sufficient if I can find it in stock later on?

Got a lot of maintenance to do, ha! Trying to round up parts before the weekend, sorry for all the questions. :)

Right, I know it's a personal preference on things, but I like hearing them all and the reasons why folks pick what they pick. Seems like FRAM is definitely regarded as the bottom of the barrel filter by most people. Glad to hear WIX is highly regarded.

API CC and CD are obsolete, what "new" API code do I need to look for to meet the old CC and CD? It appears CI-4, CH-4, and CK-4 would all possibly be sufficient?

I know, but man it sure is hard to ignore the price of the Traveller Universal Trans/Hydraulic Fluid It says it's recommended for agriculture equipment and off-highway machinery requiring M-1135 Permatran III

Oil Filter - Wix 51356 - is it a good one or is there a better alternate?

Oil Filter - Donaldson P556005 - is it a good one or is there a better alternate?

Manual says use Massey Ferguson Multiguard Oil or equivalent that meets or exceeds MIL-L-46152 API Service CC or MIL-L-2104C API Service CD Maybe Mobil Delvac Extreme 10W-30 Synthetic Blend Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil? Or maybe I could just use the Quaker State SAE10w-30 full synthetic...

My manual calls out MF Permatran III I have found many threads/posts about Permatran III but they were all a bit dated. What's the latest and greatest on the MF Permatran III ? Is it still the go-to or do better and less expensive options now exist? MF Permantran III is specified for my...

Nevermind, I finally found my book! For anyone else who might be looking for the info: Oil Filter - Wix 51356 Oil Type - 10w-30, or for warmer climates above 14 F use 15w-40 Oil Capacity - 5.1 quarts Hydraulic Filter - Donaldson P556005 Hydraulic Oil - MF Permatran III or SAE 80 FL-4...

The diagram looks correct. I may have to go to my local AGCO dealer I guess and see if they have it, which is unhandy, but such is life. Drives me nuts I can't just order online from somewhere. I did find this part for about $50, it says it's for 24"-27" of length, I'm currently using about...

Is 19 just the shackle, or the whole assembly? Item 15 or 16 would be the part that's bent, I can't remember at the moment which threaded end is bent, but it's definitely either 15 or 16.

I managed to bend the threaded portion of my stabilizer/check chain. Is there an aftermarket one out there that would easily replace the stock one? It's the part circled in yellow in the picture:

Weather this coming weekend looks like a good time to do maintenance on my Massey Ferguson 1250 Can someone who has one share their list of fluids and filters that they use/prefer? Is there a good service manual out there that I should purchase?

Picking up a free 6 ft bush hog. It's an older John Deere model. The top deck is rusted through - going to get some metal and weld it on. Just wondering what gauge I should get and what it might cost. I might even see about getting an estimate from a machine shop to do it, as my welding...

I need the implement to sit farther back from the tractor more than anything. The front coulter on my plow is right up under my PTO shield, if I had any additional lift with the existing arms it would be banging away on the PTO shield. I need the longer arms to get the implement back farther...

For whatever reason my lift arms are on the short side at 27" eye to eye, I'm assuming they came stock as I bought the tractor used with only 170 hours on it and the previous owner only used it to run a 5 ft bush hog. Trying to find some longer ones that would fit that's around 32" but can't...