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I guess/plan which way to go, leave it in drive that direction, and when I raise the loader it creeps. Oh, 9 outta' 10 - I do not plan on a work day after major swaps.

Well, thank you for trying! By assembly time, I had no definitive answer, so I went practical - the head bolt would have 'rode funny on the inside weld, so it went down the; bolt is now on a formed wall.

Actually, gonna' drill a slightly larger hole for a bolt head, and a smaller hole for the bolt shank. Bolt(s) will go up into truck frame. Tube weld side is 90* from 'lateral' pin hole (manufacturer did that for me). Should I clamp/bolt the welded longitudinal seam (because it is...

OK, I'm going away from a balance position (yes I weighed the hitch) anchored to the stake pockets - which are side only, maybe 1 foot from front beam and 3 feet from rear beam. So chains were, oh, 65* from sides toward centerline - but, worse of all, I HAD to remove short sides when I loaded...

I know, I over describe... 4 corners, 4 recessed anchors - which way?

to a aluminum trailer. It is pressure treated, 2 in. wood decked, and 'framed' by angle, that the deck 'lays' in. It is often short 'walled' for fine loads. So, looking real hard at D's that hang on a pin, through a 4 hole recessed bracket. If I go to a corner, they will lay in to catch 3...

Did anyone really read the questions? Does anyone have experience with CHOCKING vehicles with different sized tires and vastly different weights (small tractors for example) on a plank trailer? (Please do not read in / add / invent any others words or content...)

Come on guys... the questions was How to chock - The biggest tires x2, diagonals 2x, all four corners 1x? I just wanna' know about how to chock, the best way.

Turns out... I once again over complicated something. First, switch barrel, thread area has 2 flats for dash hole anti-rotation - that's it - like a double D! The chrom-ish ring is ONLY a ring nut, with 2 indentions (that do NOTHING else). I taped it up, and channel-locked it, came right off...

OK guys... by nut do you mean the collar surrounding the keyhole? Just channel-lock on that and go? No known trick involving the 2 slots?

Ok... my main switch has to come out. (I rang/subbed both ways - switch side glow circuit not making, rest of circuit OK.) Grabbed my $100 and some dollar book - "remove switch" is all it offers. So, I have a pretty chrome-ish collar around the switch, with 2 slots, with nice hemisphere ends. It...

The biggest tires x2, diagonals 2x, all four corners 1x?

Sounds like a safety somewhere - PTO, seat, neutral, - you know the list!

I'll admit I was swayed by ad pictures - devastation, trees down, etc. - post hurricane scenes in ads - and Lightning to the rescue. But every time time I saw it, I thought a couple hours of lights vs stuck here in the devastation did not seem worth it.

Does the idea of using (wasting) your truck's battery power on the house seem ridiculous to anyone else? If I have 250 miles worth of power after say, a hurricane, isn't that when I really want to keep my reserve ready to roll?

Size - draw out your gear, walk paths, etc. - and increase all by 50%

Yes, that was the 'stick, lower mark, both sides' part. (I will try to think through your reply - done.) Any reason a priority valve would respond to quick turns? I do/did not have loader, remotes, or 3 point on - but I could try mower lift (3 pt cyl) during next event. But, based on your...

Yeah, I know there's no operator clutch, but listen. Around 600 hours. I'm mowing, say 2 hours steady, wet grass, motor not 'hot'. On 'quick' turns, I lose steering, mid pto, and drive - comes right back. Tried high and low 'gear' - still happens, less if I just slip around corners (?). Gotta'...

ruffdog and cal - you have changed my life. I came up through a couple of trades where you just drilled holes, were supposed to have been born knowing it. I just did a project where I concentrated on 'chip load', got it done, and put a good bit back in the rack. (Found pressure much more...

That, and a lower 3rd, is what I see when I search Jeep tire mounts. Just don't have the width.

You know, if it was a travel trailer, I'd worry less. But it goes 70 MPH, then into a bumpy field, etc., and back. Only room for the 2 max, to the upright, limited by width. It will get the squashed nuts like the trailer itself so I have spares. BC, gets too wide!

OK, I finally got a spare for my trailer. Need to mount it. Don't like on 'tongue', may want to store stuff, and will get full sun. So, planning to mount to an upright from 'deck' to rails. 5 x4 1/2, so no easy choice for 2 holes aligned up and down. (5 holes, 72 degrees apart, no 2 on center.)...

Does it matter? If switch A opens and stops compressor, or switch B opens and stops compressor, maybe designer didn't care so no ID. I was thinking hi/low limit... that where you're at?

Going forward?

I've been calling a bit (for Leer) there, but not finding any breaks on price. Know someone in particular?

I will soon be transporting my little tractor behind a new F150, and want a colored fiberglass shell. Goona' drive it home (VA) from Des Moines, anyone know of an outlet, warehouse, factory that does retail in upper mid America to middle East coast?

IIRC, my blade sharpening guy offered to reweld carbide bits.

I'm thinking buy exactly same C channel. Remove 1 1/2 inches of short side top and bottom on each end, so wide web will sit inside existing C channel on both sides. Then weld only where short side of channel touch each other. Thinking any holes, or heat, on existing beam wide section will harm...

That create a picture? It is an aluminum trailer, 3500 lb range. The forward beams combine at an standard angle, with an angled hitch attached. There is a centered hole there that accepts a similar triangle flange with a lift poked through. It never raises enough to really get out of the way for...

That's why I ask. I was an Instrument Tech, and always wondered if they installed reference points (such as a nail here and a nail there for tape measure) or something cooler like Laser Nails. (I do remember seeing something on Discovery Channel, oh, 30 years ago or more. Cut 2 grooves in a bent...

Nothing yet, but with all these leg advancements... How on earth do the get the net leg perfect? Anyone notice change? Do they ever adjust for previous problem (add an inch or two for instance)?

If I may, you've got enough stuff off... Maybe expand your search, seems you only need similar wheel bolt pattern, similar u-joint, and exact gear ratio. Other than that, a center hole and a place for tie rods - pretty universal, right?

My wife wanted to cut patterns in our yard (with 'her' battery walk behind), so I measured/marked her some references - 90, 45 L&R - makes a nice plaid over time. Her improved 'game' actually changed the behavior of some neighbor males, one has even decided to cut circles and finish the corners.

Or Fender

I only know my gear, but have learned (just did it today....): Splines before lift mechanism, Strong hand leads in (on my back, left side of tractor for me, feet to loader, right hand in to center), PTO in neutral, that strong hand pulls the collar back with thumb and middle through pinkie...

Trying to say: A visual quick check showed the shaft flange could not go flush to housing with a perfectly flush seal, there was a radius (filet?) between shaft and flange, and then a bit of shaft that was not machined down as much as the seal area. So, the seal needed to be, at least, a bit...

As above... Upper seal has 'stop' flange, so depth is obvious. Lower seal does not. (The bearing does have a groove to go past, to show depth for lower bearing.) So, does lower seal go in: far enough to 'touch' bearing, or just flush to shaft housing, or anywhere in between. I went with deep...

We got a Costco battery mower, made a set (blower, trimmer) with 3 big batteries and 2 'half size'. After a vacation, cut the whole yard with just over 1 battery. (They have really improved from the '90s.)

Well, did you get the newer tractor from the crate? I have learned, if I test drive/inspect a car, I write down the VIN, and check the paperwork against my note. It irks 'em bad, but I know it's right.

Did not imagine this would be this complicated. So, shed with standard construction walls - 2X4, sheathing, J channel (about 3/4 outside sheathing) and vinyl siding. 2x4, sheathing outer edge of J all line up well to create door hole, finish rather than 'rough'. I plan to build a 2 1/2 steel...

I'm with tp. Generally, jets go snug, a needle (to go in a jet or other orifice) may adjust.

OK, then does it stack? Say, remain in force, back to here pays last 20 years value change, back from there pays x years, back from there pays back to x, etc.?

I have wondered.... If title insurance covers me, for instance, for forever for faults at purchase; and I sell 2 weeks later for instance, should I get a massive refund because their exposure was limited from infinity back to the the 2 week point?

I'm pretty sure 'working' rating is sufficient spec, if even or greater than load. You're gonna' have to move every pound and 16th every time - so less is easier. If single chain is more than load, and you double or quad, there's your safety factor 'overdone'.

I and the wife like nice, but cheap cars. We both expect to be able to get in and go 200 to 600 miles in a day - once in a awhile. So far that has ruled out cheap E-cars.(same for the truck - maybe 20 mile trips 99% of the time - then 200 or even 1500 miles in 2 days to go get something.) Our...

Similar note, anyone seen what is very close to the stacked NYY standard logo, but has a f in it somewhere, maybe a restaurant logo?

For history, I ran 2 sets of Hydroedges, and loved them. Have added these successors (CC2s) to wife's Elantra, and my Challenger. Felt better/surer than they ever have - worth the extra money for rain 'trust'.

I get compliments at the dump, for a guy with a regular truck... My secret is constantly saying "Steer the trailer, then the truck." Seriously, my mantra as soon as it goes in reverse.

Lighter connector system is horrible. I changed everything over to these...

In general, if the home is right and the market functional, it will sell in 2 weeks all by itself. (I had a co-worker transferred sold a house for cash while tapping in the FSBO sign - house right, right market - always worth a try.)

I suspect, esp for a hobby environment, the VFD may well be overkill - overly complicated. If the machine was made to select/operate it's own speed system, why duplicate? In my town, we have a 'get stuff done' district with a motor shop - they can certainly match something up, and marked it down...

I feel the opposite about the cost. Now that I can pay about a quarter to fifty cents a day to not wait through commercials, I will not watch them anymore. The minimal cost saves me time and the authors' ideas are so much better presented continuously.

Sir, 9 hours with no comments... May I speak for everyone just this once - Yuck! Enjoy!

I studied up and wrote a big paper on this end of dying for my MDiv. I was quite shocked along the way. One of the sources I read compared this business to other commerce, and determined prices basically were about 3 times too high because there were 3 times too many of them, working at 1/3...

As in "Can I get enough squat?"?

After, oh 52 years of it, it just seems like user/operator stuff now.

I 'fix' electronics, and always throw used 'tech' batteries out in the yard until I go the dump - scared of 'em' when near fail.

Preacher/choir... Anyway to crimp new end?

I don't know yours, but plant ones I've driven had double safeties and deadman's so they could be operated from in the cage or rescued from below.

I am frustrated with towing specs also. They show combos they will not let you order - maybe that's it. I want a 5.0 3.73 - not allowed, but rated.

It was smart model - the exact opposite of the big box. Litter rural and urban America with a stop (or 3) on the way to Food Lion, and pick off all those sales. But now Food Lion doesn't have enough 'base' to justify the next store on that route.

Reminds me... As a child (late 1960's) cousins had a Ford/Lincoln with retractable hardtop. The keep a matching model in the glovebox, retracted it too every time they changed the big car.

And the model (local 'food') pushes the real markets with real produce departments further away towards denser suburbs. So, in the long run, nearby folks have worse nutrition. "Food desert."

Assuming mechanical, jacketed cable... The way described, probably interior damage also, bite the bullet and buy the assembly. Otherwise, best case you will have to crimp one end anyway after assembly.

I keep seeing this topic, and always think why? You could do a whole lot worse, at least this is very innocuous. No smells, no traffic after build, no noise, wonderful neighbor!

I tried that once (Instrument Tech, knew it should work) and found it very unreliable over, say 50 feet. Is there a trick? No bubbles, water wetter, etc?

I have a 16 Challenger. Somehow caught a bolt? entering I95 and really punched out a hole/flap. The dash told told me which tire and how how fast the air was leaving, so I could attend to getting the proper side of the car off the road (the farthest) for the exchange - all in about 5 seconds. I...

I have had 2 very similar BCBS situations lately. Provider errs in billing. I try to help, even send in bills myself. After 90 days, BCBS claims they do not have to pay in network, and claim I am off the hook. So, I'm left with an insurance letter that says I don't have to pay a provider (that...

The ramps are higher, and up under the trailer for load support. Plenty wide for those tires, been using 'em for years. The 'ramp' is now used as a pegboard hung at the far end. It is always a big wind drag, and I almost always go to places with ditches - wheels in the ditch, drive right off.

Well, I got there! County, HOA, no one can complain! Buried electric big enough for any load, and generator return JIC. Slowly figuring out how to do 'bird boxes' because of the extra large eaves. So, today was the first I got it loaded up the way it was designed. Trailer in backwards, ramps for...

Done!

I can do 'em, but it seems as I've aged my skin cannot take me getting into positions to do it. For less than $20 I got a cabled clamp installer - what they called a pistol grip, like a grease gun, a foot or so of cable, and a mechanism that grabs both points of the clamp and holds them...

On a whim, I bought a $100 corded 'hand planer'. Where it shines, is, say a joist and a rafter meet and one drifts 1/4 towards the other, throwing the flooring or the decking lines off. 2 passes at 1/8, now they fit! Seconds of work instead of minutes of prying to connect. Makes 1-man framing...

I saw a brilliant poster here who added a chain to lay in his bucket while in dig position, and pull the clay out when extended to dump position. Attached to teeth and dipperstick.

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965-2-Pole-Flat-Extension/dp/B0002Q80RW/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1Q34H3SQASDO&keywords=2+pin+trailer+connector&qid=1667779564&sprefix=2+pin+trailer+connector%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-6 Hopkins 2 pole would be plenty for those jobs, comes on the Tender. All my vehicles and...

BH messed up my nice amber fluid. I blew out the feed/return lines as I hooked up. Then did the 3 easy cylinders, 2 stabs and the bucket. Lifted the BH with stabs, and then as I rotated the bucket to install the BH, muscle memory kicked in and I used the dipperstick - arg!! (I am amazed how much...

I just did very similar - existing asphalt I wanted for a floor (to park tractor-loaded trailer). I leveled 4x6s on the bottom, recoated with copper-coat, and evened out with 2x4s above to get an even 'foundation'. Big overhang, careful site selection so roof water will drain away, not into...

Year in advance works great for gyms - I will never let a gym have my checking account or credit card. Typical contract will say they can use any account number they have ever learned.

Fidelity sends my retirement. They got terrible after the post office got slow, and wouldn't fix it. My credit union was happy to give me a 'sacrificial' account to 'receive' checks with no cross links (pulls) to other accounts. So Fidelity can pull back their money or none at all. I preached...

I talked to 5 people at Wells Fargo about 2 week half payments until I got an old guy who actually knew how it worked and didn't lie about it. He said at payment time, the look in my interest free kitty and if I had enough for another whole payment, they would take 2. If not, they keep using my...

No, it was in a rubbermaid suburb 'closet', but got me none the less! Got the loader cleared - opened all the hoses, drained the cylinders and 'rolled' the loader with a chain, carefully, so everybody got a chance to be the low point. Not looking forward to doing the backhoe! 6 cylinders, no...

It does seem like a user of this method would mark the middle. I was an industrial electrician, and occasionally someone would do this, but rarely was an outlet very far away - shorter cords made more sense. I have seen 'roadies' do this with band gear. I elbow wind - even my long cords -...

I found my water source. The SUD2 spout had failed, and let the clear liquid into my 'trusted' can. So no machine problems, strictly system 'operator' failure. Solutions! After buying the second (though cheap) 5 gal from TSC, I ditched the loader and opened everything I could get to easily...

One I sure wish I could prevent... I stand back from parking lot lanes/curbs to signal I do not wish to cross until traffic is clear. (Having worked in a factory and other experiences, leads me to NOT want to walk directly in front of a running, hot vehicle with a half attentive driver.)...

Ok, me again. First, I meant just boil a small bit to see if the water left - to prove it was indeed water. Thorough draining this time: Dropped loader valve hoses to pipes to drain, subbed in my open quick disconnects to allow vent, moved handle to each position for a good bit. Dropped...

I pretty sure I know the initial cause - the bad 'trusted' can I didn't look at before I poured (when I saw clear liquid and stopped). No troubles ever before, only since that error. My problem is clearing the now bad fluid. Today's plan is run on bad fluid, and position loader to drain before...

$25 is half a TSC cheapie fluid 5 gal ($50) - just for flushing. Common wisdom is 2 1/2 gals for trans fill, I'm going 2 3/4 on some? Starting my second bucker later... Hadn't thought to spin steering to exercise... You reminded me though, I believe I will 'boil' some and see if water leaves -...

As above! Sequence Had a mowing at remote field. Topped up fluid with 'trusted', nearly empty 5 gal can. Saw clear fluid, stopped. Didn't separate in sample jar, just weird to me. Finished with opening new 5 gal can. Did mowing job, no problem. Returning machine, noticed leaking hose on backhoe...

Went for big overhang all 4 sides, 'bird box' returns on gables - it will well match existing garage in view. Eaves will be below door tops. Thanks for product names - I will pursue!

I need suggestion! I am in a HOA (!@#$%^&*) area, and need a no/low maintenance surface for shed doors - the 2 will be 100 x 100. split. (The hole is big enough for my tractor on its trailer.) I envision a light frame from 2x2 or aluminum angle, filled with foam board for light, rigid fill...

'Portables' would.

It's fun! Spend (now) about $200 for a kit, pipe wrench parts apart before complete removal, and repaint at the end. If you're diligent - EZPZ. First time, you gotta' keep track not only order but edges - rings and circle and stuff, with bevels or springs for instance. Figure how to curl the...

If it helps... I had to get it in my head that "Top" did not mean top - it is the position that is doubled, as for carrying the deck while out-of-service - better named 'Stop". Mine also worked best about 15 degrees out of wack - 'Top' turned just a bit from say dead 6:00 (as hour hand) to say...

OK, bottom end first! THX guys...

Noticed on my last 'road trip' that my BX23 ignored first few (partial) turns of steering wheel. Let's say the road curved left a bit, and my casual corrections were ignored, startled me, and a big left got it done. Do I start with the steering wheel valve or lower stuff? All is 17 or so years...

Couple of peeves... Big cars and big drivers, who expect to be able to cut the corner in a parking lot. I'm lined up, in my half of the lane, waiting to exit, while a fat person who apparently cannot turn the wheel past their belly, expects me leave so they do not have to turn their wheel to...

I normally could care less, I inherited a Kubota. I am impressed that - I have yet to be told "NO PARTS, at any price" for anything except common bolts, washers, nuts gone to open stock (and spec'd). My model has hit 20 years. I have been turned down on car parts after only 5 or 6 years, if...

I don't know your machine, but that is the way an open (un-special) differential works. The question is: can you (safely) stop both wheels at the same time? (And do you happen to KNOW there is no differential action in the transmission case.) You did not tell us how you determined (tested...

I have a BX23 with correct BH and pressures. When I haven't used it in a while, I wonder what has happened, and quickly relearn that it is me. After an hour or so, the BH is as strong as ever (when I have learned again where and what to pinch). A gauge quickly proves everything!

I have a neighbor that lets a mower roll down, and manually pulls it back up by rope - been doing it for years

I occasionally, now, drive by about 10 flag poles in a row, but not plumb. The not quite vertical lines really show it off - I couldn't have paid for it. Now that most utility work is contract, I really think we need a 1/2 bubble law for all utility placements.

Well, after much measuring and such - change of plans! (A single block will not raise and level all way around - 6 inches slope diagonally.) 10 (door side) x about 20 (no doors or windows) So, now, thinking 4x4, then 4x6, then 4x10 pressure treated perimeter, cut slanted to level slope...

And another.... Saw a SNL reference. I'm in Richmond, and in the first year of SNL, the local guys at the station were watching the Playboy channel while the local news was on. Came time to switch back to the satellite for SNL, and suddenly titties on broadcast TV for about 15 seconds. We heard...

Run a drill through the lock bolt hole.

After years of farting around with trees remotely by myself... I use a simple action bow and arrow with an attached spinning reel to shoot tethered practice arrows to branches. (I have wasted literally years trying to get a weight through [threw!] a tree crotch.) I then pull up a string, then...

Couple of things... My locals told me they get a 'tone' with the call / address - that they know means CWP. That way other listeners do not... I keep my Ins/Reg looped together (hole punch, 'laminated') on a colored ribbon, under the mirror cover on the driver's visor. Ribbon with loop hangs...

Mid Atlantic Wrestling, Saturday early evening, eating (plastic tub) pork barbeque sandwiches. Johnny Weaver and George Becker. Went to see the wrestlers at Richmond Arena once, and checked the blood (by tongue) to see if real. OMG!

I am working on 1 side of large asphalt - so that side already 'ends' and tapers a bit to exposed dirt / crush and run used for base. Since I am setting on that side, no channel would need to be cut there. I initially wanted to set on asphalt, but it is only close to level. By the time I cut...

I have an existing section of asphalt drive I wish to abandon anyway. Asphalt is not perfectly level, but close. I need a shed, probably 20 long by 10 wide. For small sizes, I can ignore code. I'm thinking: Cut 5 inch channel for back, a side, and small front walls where (tractor) entry doors...

That's not what the last guy said. Bill of sale covers buyer from theft responsibility, following you home and taking it back, etc. Some supporting docs, vids, witness list would be a good idea too.

I have a Viair, say 8 years old, still great. I do let it rest, for heat, say every 1/2 tire (refilling after beach drives). It is the standard for 'off roaders'.

So I spent 20 minutes or so trying to fold the (all plastic, no spring) seal into an outline of a 'C' that would fit inside the bore. It kept twisting down the bore into an elongated oval. So, I found an appropriate socket, filled most of the bore, and it twisted up the first try - though not...

Oil line fitting?

I found this in the woods beside the rental house. (1979) Very heavy. Found some references to M-R as a hardware store in the 40s? I suspect it may be lead, stock. but marked as though a business card? Maybe 7 inches long. Text is: McKeel-Richardson Carolina Washington, N. C. Any thoughts?

And somehow the ground is getting further away.

Semi Synth transmission fluid 50/50 acetone to soak in. 3 or 4 inches of chrome exposed, and TAPED up for protection. Pipe wrench does so many jobs. Leave or replace rod to frame, as bottom, inside nut will need to come off too. Reverse for reassembly, paint, enjoy!

I know everyone wants the 'free market' ideal to work, but if we cannot make buckets or loaders, how are we gonna' make tanks - when we need to? Jobs aside, there is point where pursuing 'low cost manufacturer' is clearly against the national interest.

I have done a bunch of mine, and paid a guy to do one - never again! (Orange is orange, right?) Anyway, there are a mess of fine details as to seal direction and such I found on reassembly. When I looked carefully enough in parts diagrams and manuals I could see a faint line (on blowup) or text...

I will bet they are English. Buy the range of bolts, align them with light behind ('teeth' should 'nest'), return 'em. Been my experience, if Metric, the C/F equivalent is a ratio (by country?) but distinct enough to eyeball over an inch or so of alignment.

Real electrician here. Fuses typically blow for overloads (a bit o' time here), including shorts (faster the better). Bigger fuses typically do not improve shorts, but allow time for overloads to ramp away. If yours is like my little tractor, there is a "Pull" lever in case "off" circuit fails...

I've got a Murray/Briggs Frankenstein (repairs, no mods) from Walmart, maybe 2003 for $100. Got a $5 diaphragm fuel pump system I change every couple of years. 5 pumps after winter, 3 any other time, starts first pull. I had to rebuild 2 wheel mounts sheet metal - looks horrible - but the best...

I am an 'Instrument Man' so I have tried this, to no success. I added 2 foot clear extensions (well sealed, w/open ends) to a 100 ft water hose. Taped to poles, filled, marked 'level here x', and could get NO repeatability. (Gave up and used tensioned string with string level - got...

May I suggest: (after doing some jobs twice...) Final, 91% alcohol scrub right before assembly (dry), and use Gear Oil RTV (it is different), either it's gray or a gray box.

gsr is right. VA Master Electrician - I was taught UG will always/eventually fill from condensation if nothing else. If you just wanna' share the trench for other reasons, fine, but you won't prevent condensation, much less the other possibilities.

I have followed '1 solution fits all' generator sales/installs. Unless the home is thoughtfully designed for that, it is not a good choice to have a non-user select the 12/16 circuits that are 'important'. (One house they did not pickup the kitchen refrigerator - DOH!) If I was involved at all...

I gotta' tell somebody. I was looking at real estate data for my rental house, hoping to find acres measured for data use. Found a new category - RPA .53 acres (I estimate, well, my land at .72 acres all together). Now I gotta' research - what is RPA? - Resource Protection Area. Areas near...

My couple got taken to Bingo once on group date. I had 2 winning cards in 30 minutes, little old ladies cussing me as I turned them in. Made $178 as I remember. Never went back. I am convinced they gave me winning cards to 'hook' me, as a new face. OP, I assumed gambling player, could you mean...

Snow to water ratio starts at 10 to 1 and gets better with lower temps - so not 3 inches of water, maybe 5/16s?

I do a lot of electrical OEM back sourcing. Use a real search engine (not a shopping engine...) and search for any and all numbers on existing switches. You will probably find a 'line' of similar shaped switches - may have top pick SPST, lighted, etc.

Coming back from Jamaica or Bahama - a while ago - we were not supposed to have any plants. They passed us on with an aloe plant - because we were all obviously burnt - called it medicinal.

On the original point... Honeymooned in Bermuda in '94, saw tiny concrete trucks. Just like 'ours', just 6 foot wide, spinning barrel, rear slant discharge, etc.

I did look for a better category.... I watch a lot of Youtube 'tractor fails' silently when her shows get boring. I notice in 3rd world or so countries, it's mostly red tractors that break in two from bouncing the front wheels - almost exclusively red! Any clues? Who is red in, say, lower Asia...

Froze it, warmed the black, applied hammer, done! They all sit proud, looks like a good idea. THX guys.

Well, overnight and outside (left hand soapy water lubed, freezing, good sunshine) one of four beads seated. So, then I knew all worked correctly, etc. It does just sit proud that 3/16s. PAM and 40 pounds set the next two. 50 pounds didn't set that last one - so I left it out overnight (aimed at...

OK, now I need some help. Original BX23 wheels, trying to change to above tires - Trupower in 'correct' size. Mounting myself.... At 30 lbs or so most of the bead seats, but about a foot of circumference on each side does not. The part that does seat seems to supply a rimguard effect - sits...

Continued: 'd' appreciate suggestion I found and looked HARD at SimpleTire, the slightly renamed OTR original tires. Comparing them (TruPower vs OTR) specs was 7 lbs different, TP heavier ( I did weight them), and TP's felt thicker between bars - haven't figured out how to measure yet - but felt...

BX23 BT600 (fairly popular SCUT tractor type, and its backhoe attachment designations) cylinder (hydraulic, area of forum) rebuild parts (mostly circular pieces needed to restore to service after years of use and wear, commonly sold in a group - kit) are ridiculous (overly priced for what there...

are ridiculous! I had done my FEL myself one at a time so I didn't notice as much, but these X4, X1 are really adding up. I was gonna' get the ones I needed and a spare, so far it's $800 for a few o-rings, slides, and seals - wow! So, rant over, base BT600 Boom/Dipper/Stab/Stab seem to be same...

Did some 'work'. Thought maybe it was odd sized wheels (getting over flat) so went back to 2 normal - no change. It's the left side, and forward only. Apply at speed makes noise (rattle-ish) and locks up - tire slides.

I have a little apply noise, so researching before I dig in. In parts, I see 2 axle packs of discs that operate by, let's say cams, from the foot linkage. Does replacing these REQUIRE pulling transmission up and out? All the way? I see a piston operated clutch pack. I'll guess this system...

So, punched a hole, in my original, R-1, near dry rotted tire, between bars, close to sidewall, so rather curved there. It 'ran', created crack, etc. - not really much tire between bars. Tried tubes - no luck, went with new tires. Dealers said R-1 NOT whole goods anymore, pushing R-4s. Also...

Ok, I tried some tubes that matched size spec, but the stem seemed to be for real close to center of wheel - pulled right out of tube. Mine need to be, oh an inch from the bead. BX23, rear wheels, 26X12X12 Where to find tubes, spec for outside stem, threaded stem correct? THX!

We had a chance to try inside to outside, blowing to inside. Did a long middle pass, y turned another, y turned, after 4 in the middle we could turn the ends at full speed, had a ball, fighting over who got to drive. Ended up with a fun, elongated oval - rather, a circle with straight middle...

Well, I ended up with the Kubota blades. I did look at both options for my mower. (They were coded, not named?) The 'lower' option blade had a higher, 'sharper' angle wing, by about double. The 'higher' option blade was a lower wing. We came to the conclusion that the lower option, higher wing...

Pistons, ridge are not involved, just the crank. (Bores seemed fine during recent head work.) For the crank, actually, the fitting is going very well, and measurements fairly repeatable. I'm 'jamming' the one or two adjacent journals into their old (worn small) bearings, with the new one under...

I found a manual that discussed it! Makes so much sense.... Place .010 shim stock between lower shell and caps for adjacent journals, just snug them up. Lifts the 3 just a hair or two to ensure journal/upper bearing contact. Better ideas?

I'm still planning the measuring task, pan is off, etc. now. I expect to find a great crank, nicely worn bearings, and if so... Thought I would re-assemble with the plastigage and new '0' bearings to confirm clearance control JIC.

It really doesn't, but for that darn (blessed) gravity! The basic instructions all assume gravity is holding the crank and upper shell down on the engine stand. In frame gravity breaks things! And allows space between crank and upper shell.

I know it's normally used on an upside down engine, journal weight on 'upper' shell so all clearance is at 'lower' shell when torqued. When the engine is right side up, in frame, what is a good process? How can I ensure the upper shell is at zero with the journal? Should I remove all other...

I wonder about this myself. Is there a best leading angle? (I assume flat bottom...) Is hardening (factor, or re-hardening) an issue?

Guys: It was 60 or less, so no more than 60, not 60 required. I was also spec'ing engine, for instance. I'm just guessing here, never done it before. Advantage of Glide Shift to HST? Will the models be IDed as GS?

Wife ease.... better idea?

That was what I was looking for - I didn't know how to move through right 'series'.

Well, not too old. I have a BX23, and keep looking at the B, L, and M's that are TLBs. But, in reality, I can probably already dig any hole I'll ever want, and move any load I'll ever need already. If I leave the loaders and backhoes off the machines they price a lot better. I believe the next...

I think of these as long term tractors, and here as long term archives. I was referring to when photo bucket, was it, virtually killed a generation of web photos web-wide.

Mine had the slightest little bumps - tangs - on metal edges, seem to grip in rubber 'slot'. That warranted a plier squeeze to set the tangs into rubber.

OK - My turn/hazard flasher failed. (I resoldered all the back side stuff - remained failed.) As you know, it's $100 now. So, researched VA code, wiring diagram, my use - and decided 'turn signals' were useless on a daylight-travel only tractor. I also concluded, what are they called, twinker...

I would say no. Mounting is just too much. 3 bag capacity too low. Really full bags weigh a bit. A towed/PTO'd fan/container that could be opened/dumped remotely (from seat) would be worth it. Storage would be the down side - but 3 bagger needs storage too, so...

It's HST, a joy to drive. And, it's a remote field, we trailer to it once a month or so. Wanna' cut FAST! Corners are a problem - little else.

Zoltan, that made a lot of sense. Perimeter cuts, then with skinny Zamboni design. That gets the turns in the precut and minimizes recut of (wide) Zamboni. And does not require the precise guess of full 1/2 Zamboni. Still has the waste of Zamboni though - may be the minimum. All - other than...

I didn't get that (I did read the other thread). What wouldn't last and why?

So, currently 'cutting in' the perimeter, as non-discharge side allows, then counter clockwise in shrinking perimeter. I wanna' go the 9 miles an hour. Problem is the corner radius does not work, pass to pass. Even a wide swept corner eventually becomes too tight a radius to cut., This leads to...

I wasted a lot of time looking at other BX's - so for archiving: On a BX23 with D905: Block drain is RIGHT side, towards radiator, under 905 casting mark, 2 'plugs' in vertical line, upper one internal hex (looks like pipe plug) lower one hex head BLOCK DRAIN with copper washer. As we have...

So, is it a exact duplicate except for connector style? (Same 2 wires that land on existing solenoid, just duplicated?) Do they go to different locations, per engine? (Lower left vs upper right, for instance?)

I was looking to get a spare, mine says U-SHIN, they show a pic but not a number. Messicks' "Kubota" pump was $139, most by picture on Amazon are $20. Is there a quality difference, anyone source U-SHIN direct?

Well, first filter seemed to do it, Messicks on the way, and no work days for 10 days or so... so probably solved!

Yes, but closest was NOT off road

I do hear the pump, it was changed, oh, 150 hours ago.

Ok, was running just fine. Tank got low. Engine burbled once, I cut it off and went for fuel. Got Kroger car fuel, no fuel buddy! On restart (no burble), after a while (10 minutes?), lost high RPM power, hi rpm burbles, etc... got through the day. Threw in Diesel 911 per NAPA recommendation, no...

Timken National Seals 240356 - Nitrile Oil Seal - 24 Design, Single Lip without Spring, 1.2500 in Shaft, 1.6970 in OD, 0.1875 in Width, Nitrile, 24

If I see a Kubota ad I assume it will be a scam. Many others will also. Try to get something local in pics, and don't use a gmail address.

Got it rebuilt, it was the last pressure seal as shaft exits - in pieces. So, pushing forward would give a lever effect, but no seal on metal rear end, still could hurt center seal or shaft. Pulling backward multiplies pressure toward shaft end seal as I found. Anyone got any insights on...

OK - not perp. to floor, but bucket floor perpendicular to ground - edge scraping. And either pushing forward or pulling back, I was busy! Seems like... if hand valve was at rest (holding) a nd I pushed forward, then bucket edge becomes lever against cylinder, over pressure rear seal? Same...

Oh, it's definitely not the hose, it's the shaft. I would have been happy with just the hose....

17 year old? BX 23 I was going back and forth with the tractor, cutting some (level bucket) and scraping some (perpendicular bucket floor) leveling after cutting some dirt for another location. Sudden fluid flow out of cylinder/shaft joint, cylinder still operates. Age failure - or did I load...

While I was hunting tongue scales I saw hanging scales, 660 lbs for only $30. I got lotsa' trees. THX guys. MATH - should position weight response be linear? (Single axle...)

I may have done a $100 worth of work getting there...

I've been using the foot on the jack - seems fine.

I've hauled gravel and stones when I had to stop on interstate and move load, by hand. I've learned to make a load ramp when I go to the gravel place, so when the guy 'misses' it still go to the front. So, slowly learned very important. I see the weighing lever idea is not far off base. How...

As above, setting up new trailer and BX23. I sat the tractor to float the trailer (my zero) and moved forward a few time until I ran out of scale-ability. Scale stopped at 400 lbs. Since I had measured along the way (distance and weight) I could make a reasonable prediction to get to 525 or so...

If it's a bad design, that's not gonna' change. Find a good sheet metal guy and buy some aluminum. It's only gotta' be perfect in a couple of spots.

The thinking on the parts system is weird to me. You have to start here: https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ You would search B21. This will not include the loader or backhoe. NEVER 'go back', use 'Return to a List'. You will also search on, I guess TL421 and BT751 per stickers on your...

Link me? I looked a bit, but only other models or pivot seals...

I did those - the pivot or bevel gear seal/race combo. I mean the seal between the wheel mounting hub/axle and the large (8 in) gear (along with 2 bearings). The OE manual simply says "remove"...

I did one post 5527840

Lots of views, no advice, I guess folks don't change 'em during pivot job - so I did OK.

On my system it was that 5 (?) ported thingy...

But the actual front (stubby) axle seal at the 2 bearings in the gear cover. I bought these seals along with a pivot set - turns out that was easy after these - https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200898125_200898125 Are the axle seals and bearings a press job? Failure rate? I see no...

I have performed the mystic rituals: BX23 complete changeover from lawn/leaf/turf back to Loader/backhoe/R4s, battery tendered, tucked under tarp and full winter/snow maintenance on the 4wd Durango. Thus, big snow and toy needs prevented! You're welcome. (Seems preparation always proves...

I want to: Apply pressure (up to 2000 psi or so) by other means, hit a maintained electric switch, and have the pressure hold in that line until switch changed (- oh for $25!); a remote operated valve. But yet reliably and inexpensively. Suggestions?

I've read and read and read.... What I don't see is a definitive description of why and when a good engineer selects one or the other. I get the impression that if the port is the LAST port then power beyond really doesn't matter - no beyond exists. What if that changes? In my case, BX23...

As above, I have an inherited BX23 from 2005 or so. Looking at tractor and paint chart - Kubota Paint Chart I seem to have yellow paint showing under orange in a number of places, was expecting to see Yellow Repair Primer listed - but only Grey - good under all colors and types? Would my...

I had written the above while vacationing, and my memory failed me. My method would only work on the 8 in., as the 'extra' metal is actually of the bucket, not the dipper stick. On the next size larger, new bucket, the extra metal would not contain the travel of the longer pins. Pics -

I was in the middle of a stump (I just love stumping) at MIL's and pulled the back out of my 12 in. original bucket. Piddled around on the web and found OK pricing but shipping OMG! Called my dealer, he had a newer 8 in. ordered for someone who never showed up, at better than whole goods, but it...

On my last sharpening, while shields off, I watched for grease to pass lower seals - only upper on one. I tried again after job. OK, read hundred of posts about greasing and the lower shields (cups). Got any necessary parts, and knocked everything apart, expecting to fine 'hardened' grease...

If the secondary goal for safety chains is to catch the tongue before it digs into the the pavement... Why not a series of laterals like tire chains? Why not positioned and shortened so as to not allow travel to the pavement?

for pickup, will trash later this week. I disassembled original seat (to pull vinyl back in line), decided not to repair - it is repairable, but time constraints this week. So if you need metal back, lined internal pad, vinyl cover, closing trim - come and get 'em. (Last metal clip split.)...

I have a residential BX23, and rather often just go get fuel on the road, in the bike lane or to a rental house. The steering is rather twitchy, so much so I didn't want to turn to look for turns while moving, and added the golf cart mirror. By twitchy I mean the first little bit of steering...