My 30' x 40' tractor garage

   / My 30' x 40' tractor garage
  • Thread Starter
#41  
GA Bean Counter: The doors are whatever you want. It's just a matter of more money if I wanted a 12' wide by 10' tall door. The 8.5' means that a JD 4x20 series (with or without cab) fits no problem.

Part of why you want to do the plan/model is to figure out the door stuff. Whether it's buying tractors, building garages or even life itself the hard part is figuring out what you want.

Adding to Eddies info, if I was doing a _shop_ it would be built like a house and cost more due to footer costs, framing, etc. And that's before you get to the higher grade of interior finish, more/better plumbing, HVAC, etc. Grant it this my definition and threshold for a garage vs. shop which I see as pole barn vs. stick frame.

I have my grading done, will post pix when the grass comes in and the whole thing looks like they do in the brochures :).

Pete
 
   / My 30' x 40' tractor garage #42  
Yes, I started laying everything out on graph paper to try and calculate sizes of items etc. Also I had picked up the idea of pallets for implements from this site about a week ago. Thought that was the greatest thing since sliced bread!

Not sure I follow on how it is that much more to stick frame. I am looking to go with 12' walls. Using 2x6x12 @ 16"OC.

Here is my thoughts:
Example 30' wall
Studs 2x6x12 - 26
Blocking 2x6x12- 3
Top plates - 2x6x12- 6
Bottom Plate - 2x6x12PT- 3
OSB sheathing outside - 12 sheets 4x8 7/16

Price 2x6x12' s $7 ea = $266
OSB $7 ea = $84
Total $350

Pole barn 30' section
16' 6x6 post - 4
2x4x10 girts -15
2x6x10pt skirt - 3
2x12x10- 6

Post $200
Girts $60
skirt $20
Header $85
$365

Now that is not any additional framing for the interior of the pole barn.

So I assumed the $ difference was about the concrete? I don't think I would do anything more than what you did for the concrete floor itself. Now the difference is in the footer?

Its common practice in the south to use monolithic slabs. I am sure the cost difference is much different up north with footer requirements. 18"x12" footer is 1.5sqft of concrete per ft. So around 3.5 yards. $350 plus an additonal $150 for rebar and chairs.

I can only come up with around $500-$700 difference? Not trying to argue just really can not come up with the difference and assuming I am missing something?
Thanks Paul
 
   / My 30' x 40' tractor garage
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Hopefully Eddie will weight in here...

The time/labor would be different. Here in NC, you'd need a footer that would be 2' deep. Then either block or a poured wall to hold up the structure. So a little extra time, an extra inspection, the footer has to be "just right".

The "poles" on mine were three 2x6's. Helps with warp, and makes sure the pressure treat green stuff is good. On a solid 6x6 post the treatment can be weak due to problems penetrating into the center.

With the pole approach, there is one inspection on the holes, then the next is before the slab. The "poles" are cut to get everything at the right height (vs. footer/wall that has to be worked to level).

Since the core structure was Morton, labor cost do come into play. I did have extra cost/time with my vertical studs I had to add to let me put up the OSB and plywood. Also had more time with the plastic for the insulation. So I'd work out your foundation details and cost, think about your timeline and labor costs, and then the right solution for you will be clear :).

Good deal on the planning. I've got a post with some dollies on it you can search for. I use dollies for the small stuff that I don't use the iMatch for.

Pete
 
   / My 30' x 40' tractor garage #44  
One might have to consider siding material and interior material. I'am also debating on which type to build, I want metal on the inside and outside so the horizontal framing would be easier and faster to complete.
 
   / My 30' x 40' tractor garage #45  
Agree. The wall finishes are certainly something to consider.

Why are you wanting to do metal inside? Just curious. I think if you were going to wash off your tractor or pressure wash stuff inside it would be great.
 
   / My 30' x 40' tractor garage #46  
Yes, I started laying everything out on graph paper to try and calculate sizes of items etc. Also I had picked up the idea of pallets for implements from this site about a week ago. Thought that was the greatest thing since sliced bread!

Not sure I follow on how it is that much more to stick frame. I am looking to go with 12' walls. Using 2x6x12 @ 16"OC.

Here is my thoughts:
Example 30' wall
Studs 2x6x12 - 26
Blocking 2x6x12- 3
Top plates - 2x6x12- 6
Bottom Plate - 2x6x12PT- 3
OSB sheathing outside - 12 sheets 4x8 7/16

Price 2x6x12' s $7 ea = $266
OSB $7 ea = $84
Total $350

Pole barn 30' section
16' 6x6 post - 4
2x4x10 girts -15
2x6x10pt skirt - 3
2x12x10- 6

Post $200
Girts $60
skirt $20
Header $85
$365

Now that is not any additional framing for the interior of the pole barn.

So I assumed the $ difference was about the concrete? I don't think I would do anything more than what you did for the concrete floor itself. Now the difference is in the footer?

Its common practice in the south to use monolithic slabs. I am sure the cost difference is much different up north with footer requirements. 18"x12" footer is 1.5sqft of concrete per ft. So around 3.5 yards. $350 plus an additonal $150 for rebar and chairs.

I can only come up with around $500-$700 difference? Not trying to argue just really can not come up with the difference and assuming I am missing something?
Thanks Paul

I only checked the price of posts and found that I can get them from McCoys for $40 each compared to your listing them at $50 each. You also have to take into consideration that your corner posts act as part of the other walls, so your numbers are a little off there. Given that, the price of materials is very close and not really where the saving is when comparing the two building types.

In all building, labor is your biggest expense. The National Housing Association did a study by talking to the top home builders in the nation to break down expenses in what it cost to build a house. Roughly one third of the building is materials and two thirds is labor and fees. There isn't any way to get rid of the fees, but savings on labor can be significant.

Time is money.

To build stick frame, you have to have a footing. In pole building, you don't need it. Adding a slab later on is an option, but not needed to get the building up. To compare apples to apples, if you are going to pour a slab, and the extra up front expense of doing so, then it's better to go stick framing. That is what I did for my shop. Stick framing gives you the added benifit of being able to sheeth the interior walls without any more lumber being required.

But to save money, and get a building up as cheaply as possible, not having to dig down the required depth for the footing and pour concrete is both a huge savings in labor and materials that is not needed in pole building construction. Digging those four post holes will take all of an hour for a crew that knows what they are doing. To dig that one 30ft wall, then frame it up, install rebar, pour concrete and remove the forms is going to add hundreds of dollars to the job in labor alone.

If you hire a crew to come in and build you a pole barn from a company that does it every day, year round, you can expect the entire building to be done in a week. This isn't including any dirt work, just showing up and starting on Monday with all the materials there for them to get started. They will set the posts and have the framing done in a day. They will set the trusses the next day and probably get the metal on the roof done. Then the siding and all the trim will be done in the next day or two, and the doors and trim will be done on the last day.

If you have a crew do it stick fram, you will have the concrete formed and rebar set in the first day. Second day they will pour the concrete. Third day they will start framing and should have the walls done in two days. Fifth day they are setting the trusses by the end of the week.

It will take the next week to finish the stick frame building.

Same size building, but easily 3 to 5 days longer to build.

Say there crew is 5 guys and they each make $200 a day. I'm going to guess the difference could easily be $5,000 more to build stick frame compared to pole built.

If you are doing it yourself and doing all the labor, then it's a push and you have to decide what your time is worth, and if you could be at work making money or at home, spending it. The longer you work on it, the less money you make at work. Of course, this is an argurment that I have with myself all the time too. I hate to hire out stuff that I can do myself, and I know what I could be making if I went to work that day instead of doing the labor myself. In the end, I don't know which is cheaper, but my mindset is that I'm going to do my own labor and know exactly what I have and how it was done.

Hope this helps,
Eddie
 
   / My 30' x 40' tractor garage #47  
Eddie,
I think any 5 man framing crew in GA could build 4 walls and set 20 trusses in 2 days. My crew framed my house in 9 days with 4 guys. 4 tractor trailer loads of lumber complete flooring system and stick built roof.

The way I read your post is the 5 days longer than a pole building. I would say an additonal day for concrete labor. One day to dig and form the footer.
One day framing.

As far as the material cost I quoted , I think if quoting BB store prices that mine are very close. Just showing that the lumber cost are the same. The diff is not worth mention.

I appreciate your input and its nice to bump ideas about the process you guys.
The pic was day 6.

Thanks
Paul
 

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   / My 30' x 40' tractor garage
  • Thread Starter
#48  
Over the winter I got the final grading done, and put a gravel boarder around the building. I also cleaned up the gravel apron for the garage. Here are two shots of what that looks like.

Just have to site back and watch the grass grow now...

Pete
 

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   / My 30' x 40' tractor garage #49  
Is the gravel border just to keep water from pooling next to the building?
 
   / My 30' x 40' tractor garage #50  
Is the gravel border just to keep water from pooling next to the building?
It also keeps mud from splashing onto the siding.

Great looking building and site there Pete!:thumbsup:
 
 
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