Tilt for front blade

[Aussiebushman]

Has anyone made a hydraulic tilt unit to swing a front blade hydraulically? It would sure help on the bush tracks to be able to tilt the blade through about 15 degrees on either side of level.

I don't know a lot about how to add another hydraulic cylinder but presume there is some kind of junction/valve and control that would work.

Also, some sort of articulation will be needed so the blade can still raise and lower using the existing ram

Any advice most welcome

 

[Xfaxman]

Your second picture shows that it already has tilt, so just add cylinder mounts and a diverter valve.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Fine, but as mentioned, a second cylinder would need to work in conjunction with the existing one that raises and lowers the blade. That means wherever the blade is on its vertical travel, the second ram needs to extend or shorten to match that position. As long as that happens, the second ram could be extended or recovered to tilt the blade - so far so good.

But - the main ram can lift the blade clear of the ground by up to 2 feet That second ram surely needs to be able to close or open to accommodate that. Will it do that automatically?

I actually wonder if it might be better to move the bottom of the existing ram from the centre of the blade to one side, then add a second ram to the other side. Each would be mounted centrally at the top. Then with two separate controls (preferably next to each other) each ram can be extended or raised independently. The mechanical aspects of this are simple enough, but the hydraulics are beyond my skills - You make it sound simple to add a diverter valve but where and what about that second lever/control?

 

[Xfaxman]

The tilt cylinder would mount on the frame of the blade and go up and down with the blade. The tilt angle doesn't change when the blade is raised or lowered.

The diverter would switch lift and lower, to tilt right or left.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Thanks - that is a beautiful looking assembly, unfortunately way outside my budget (I'm nearly 75 and only a simple "bushie" However, the principle is great. especially the way a single cylinder is used to perform the tilt, completely independently of the raising/lowering cylinder.

Before I saw this, it had occurred to me there was a "home-built way to achieve what I needed and your comments would be appreciated - especially about how to install the hydraulics. Please refer to my attached sketch-drawing. The mechanical aspects are simple enough - what is NOT shown in the sketch is a channel that will be added at the top of the swivel housing to hold the front and rear sections in alignment

 

[Xfaxman]

The pictures were to give you an idea of how to add one cylinder to your blade.

Adding one horizontal cylinder to tilt your blade is still a "home-built" way to achieve what you need to tilt your blade.

Remove the bolt that locks the front and rear plates together, add cylinder mounting brackets, one to the rear plate, one to the front plate and put the cylinder where I added the black line to your picture:

 

[Xfaxman]

Post some pictures and details of the valve you are using now to raise and lower the blade.

If it has a power beyond port, you can buy a new valve to control the tilt cylinder.

If it doesn't have power beyond, you can buy the new valve with power beyond and put it inline ahead of the existing valve.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Mechanical elements could be like the attached drawing - the same principle as your suggestion

Pictures of controls are also attached

Thanks again - really appreciated

 

[Xfaxman]

Yep, that will work for the pivot.

I hope someone that knows about your valve can chime in with more information.

You could start a thread in the Ford Vintage Tractors Forum ( http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/ford-vintage-tractors/ ), with a link to this thread.

Are there any hydraulic repair shops nearby that can help?

 

[Aussiebushman]

Thanks again - good to know I'n now making progress with the mechanical aspects at least.

I would not trust the local Hydraulic shop after two bad experiences- the first time they put Pirtek fittings onto non-Pirtek hose so it leaked and had to be redone elsewhere. Second time they repaired the hydraulic ram (without stupid here getting a quote first) and charged more than the cost of a new one. I'll talk to the local tractor dealers - they should know.

Although it would be best to have the ram activated from the cab so fine adjustments can be made, it would be far simpler to fit a lever action air-operated cylinder that does not require any connection with the existing system? It will be no big deal to get down from the cab to set and adjust it. I guess what I will need is a double-acting cylinder. Comments please