Tilt for front blade

[Aussiebushman]

Has anyone made a hydraulic tilt unit to swing a front blade hydraulically? It would sure help on the bush tracks to be able to tilt the blade through about 15 degrees on either side of level.

I don't know a lot about how to add another hydraulic cylinder but presume there is some kind of junction/valve and control that would work.

Also, some sort of articulation will be needed so the blade can still raise and lower using the existing ram

Any advice most welcome

 

[Xfaxman]

Your second picture shows that it already has tilt, so just add cylinder mounts and a diverter valve.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Fine, but as mentioned, a second cylinder would need to work in conjunction with the existing one that raises and lowers the blade. That means wherever the blade is on its vertical travel, the second ram needs to extend or shorten to match that position. As long as that happens, the second ram could be extended or recovered to tilt the blade - so far so good.

But - the main ram can lift the blade clear of the ground by up to 2 feet That second ram surely needs to be able to close or open to accommodate that. Will it do that automatically?

I actually wonder if it might be better to move the bottom of the existing ram from the centre of the blade to one side, then add a second ram to the other side. Each would be mounted centrally at the top. Then with two separate controls (preferably next to each other) each ram can be extended or raised independently. The mechanical aspects of this are simple enough, but the hydraulics are beyond my skills - You make it sound simple to add a diverter valve but where and what about that second lever/control?

 

[Xfaxman]

The tilt cylinder would mount on the frame of the blade and go up and down with the blade. The tilt angle doesn't change when the blade is raised or lowered.

The diverter would switch lift and lower, to tilt right or left.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Thanks - that is a beautiful looking assembly, unfortunately way outside my budget (I'm nearly 75 and only a simple "bushie" However, the principle is great. especially the way a single cylinder is used to perform the tilt, completely independently of the raising/lowering cylinder.

Before I saw this, it had occurred to me there was a "home-built way to achieve what I needed and your comments would be appreciated - especially about how to install the hydraulics. Please refer to my attached sketch-drawing. The mechanical aspects are simple enough - what is NOT shown in the sketch is a channel that will be added at the top of the swivel housing to hold the front and rear sections in alignment

 

[Xfaxman]

The pictures were to give you an idea of how to add one cylinder to your blade.

Adding one horizontal cylinder to tilt your blade is still a "home-built" way to achieve what you need to tilt your blade.

Remove the bolt that locks the front and rear plates together, add cylinder mounting brackets, one to the rear plate, one to the front plate and put the cylinder where I added the black line to your picture:

 

[Xfaxman]

Post some pictures and details of the valve you are using now to raise and lower the blade.

If it has a power beyond port, you can buy a new valve to control the tilt cylinder.

If it doesn't have power beyond, you can buy the new valve with power beyond and put it inline ahead of the existing valve.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Mechanical elements could be like the attached drawing - the same principle as your suggestion

Pictures of controls are also attached

Thanks again - really appreciated

 

[Xfaxman]

Yep, that will work for the pivot.

I hope someone that knows about your valve can chime in with more information.

You could start a thread in the Ford Vintage Tractors Forum ( http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/ford-vintage-tractors/ ), with a link to this thread.

Are there any hydraulic repair shops nearby that can help?

 

[Aussiebushman]

Thanks again - good to know I'n now making progress with the mechanical aspects at least.

I would not trust the local Hydraulic shop after two bad experiences- the first time they put Pirtek fittings onto non-Pirtek hose so it leaked and had to be redone elsewhere. Second time they repaired the hydraulic ram (without stupid here getting a quote first) and charged more than the cost of a new one. I'll talk to the local tractor dealers - they should know.

Although it would be best to have the ram activated from the cab so fine adjustments can be made, it would be far simpler to fit a lever action air-operated cylinder that does not require any connection with the existing system? It will be no big deal to get down from the cab to set and adjust it. I guess what I will need is a double-acting cylinder. Comments please

 

[ArlyA]

You do know that air cylinders act like springs? Air is very, very compressible like a steel spring is.

 

[Xfaxman]

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Although it would be best to have the ram activated from the cab so fine adjustments can be made, it would be far simpler to fit a lever action air-operated cylinder that does not require any connection with the existing system? It will be no big deal to get down from the cab to set and adjust it. I guess what I will need is a double-acting cylinder. Comments please

You already have the manual tilt adjustment. Just remove the bolt that the arrow points to, loosen the bolts in the slots, tilt the blade and line up the new hole, put the bolt back in and tighten all three nuts

.

 

[ArlyA]

I understand why brushman wants the power tilt, stopping to make adjustments only happens about once per day. I operate snow machines and one did have a all-way blade on it for a few years. All our implements we use, need to be adjustable while on the fly.

I'll attach two photos, in the 2nd one you can see the tilt actuator this blade has.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Yes, XFAXMAN, "You already have the manual tilt adjustment. Just remove the bolt that the arrow points to, loosen the bolts in the slots, tilt the blade and line up the new hole, put the bolt back in and tighten all three nuts" That is exactly how it is done manually, but please note that the blade weighs over 100 Kg and it is not as simple as it sounds.

The track that runs right around the perimeter of this property loops and slopes in several different directions due to the uneven terrain so Arly is correct that "adjustment on the fly" is a much preferred option. I'll persist in trying to find a suitable ram and control setup.

 

[Xfaxman]

Ok, I understand, you confused me when you said:

It will be no big deal to get down from the cab to set and adjust it.

Please update the thread as you work on it.

 

[James Eric]

I may not be following all of the details. But, is it possible to replace the current control with a 2 spool control mounted within reach from the seat. One spool to control height and one to control the tilt? ...Just a thought.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Thanks James

Is this what you mean? Also shown is picture of the current front lift control. You have now exhausted my knowledge of hydraulics so how to fit the new arrangement is beyond my simple bush-brain. Any suggestions?

 

[James Eric]

I do not know enough about the valve in the picture or your machine to give you a adatailed answer. However, if the only function of that valve is to raise and lower the blade, in theory, you should be able to replace the current valve with a 2 lever valve that will do what you want. I know you are not fond of your local shop, but they can tell you how to safely add a 2 lever valve. Once again, assuming the current valve's only job is to control the blade, you can insert a 2 lever valve its place. Then, all you would need is a tilt cylinder and the hydraulic lines. Of course , you still need to address any relief settings, flow rates, etc to keep the system safe. My knowledge is also limited so let's hope someone joins in that can give you additional direction. If it were me I would get all of the help I could from the local shops and from any engineering or trade schools in my area that teach hydraulics.

The basic design would take the input from the current valve and connect it to the new 2 lever valve. The output from the 2 lever valve would go the the same place that the output is going from the current valve. One lever would control the lift and the other would control the tilt. Finally, just mount the tilt cylinder, connect the hydraulic lines and start having fun.

BUT, ONLY AFTER YOU CONFIRM THE ROLE OF THE CURRENT VALVE AND TAKE THE REQUIRED SAFELY MEASURES BY INSTALLING ANY NEEDED RELIEF VALVES AND RETURNING THE FLUID BACK TO THE TANK.

1. How many hoses are connected to the current valve (4,5,6)?
2. Is the blade lift the only hydraulic component on your machine?
3. What is at the other end of the input and output hoses?
4. Is the input coming directly from a pump?
5. Is the output returning directly to the tank?
6. Is the relief valve part of the current valve and what is the relief setting?

Since the blade is already designed to tilt, you are ahead of the game.

I hope this helps...PS, if you are not sure take pictures.

James

 

[Aussiebushman]

Thanks James

That is excellent advice.

The general answer to your questions is that a single hydraulic pump feeds all of the systems, including the power steering, 3 pt linkage and the front blade lift. The control in the pictures however controls only the front blade and I frankly have no idea how the relief valve and return lines function.. The IT shop manual has many pages of detailed information but as with so many things, it is only of real value if one has some basic knowledge of where all the bits are and how they work. Currently beyond my simple mind.

I'll go to the local tractor guys for further input.

 

[James Eric]

Thanks James

Is this what you mean? Also shown is picture of the current front lift control. You have now exhausted my knowledge of hydraulics so how to fit the new arrangement is beyond my simple bush-brain. Any suggestions?

Yes, that is the type of valve i meant. All you really need to know is the specs on the current valve. Once you know that you can substitute the 2 lever valve and mount the cylinder. The questions are:
1. Open or closed; most likely open.
2. Internal or external relief valve and the pressure setting.

The shop should be able to look at your manual or service guides and answer these questions.

Let us know what you learn.

James