BX2750 snowblower

[Larry_Illinois]

Hi All,

We were blessed with a bunch of snow (12" TO 18") here in Central Illinois today. I spent many hours with my BX-2350 and endloader clearing out the drive and I am not totally done. Has anyone used the BX2750 front mount snowblower and any ball park figures on what it costs? The 2350 did well but in 12"-15" of snow it wasn't going anywhere real fast.
Any information on the front mount snow blower would be appreciated!
Larry

 

[kevinj]

Hi All,

We were blessed with a bunch of snow (12" TO 18") here in Central Illinois today. I spent many hours with my BX-2350 and endloader clearing out the drive and I am not totally done. Has anyone used the BX2750 front mount snowblower and any ball park figures on what it costs? The 2350 did well but in 12"-15" of snow it wasn't going anywhere real fast.
Any information on the front mount snow blower would be appreciated!
Larry

I just started my 4th winter with one and I am well satisfied with the performance.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Larry,

$1600 for the blower
eBay: New Kubota BX2750 50" snowblower for BX series (item 130011615182 end time Dec-25-06 04:54:10 PST)
PLUS $1000 for the subframe

eBay: Kubota BX2751 Sub-frame w/Mid PTO kit for BX series (item 7627365651 end time Dec-04-06 06:00:40 PST)

Add another $1900 for a cab.

See my set up for the winter below, works great!

 

[escavader]

Hi All,

We were blessed with a bunch of snow (12" TO 18") here in Central Illinois today. I spent many hours with my BX-2350 and endloader clearing out the drive and I am not totally done. Has anyone used the BX2750 front mount snowblower and any ball park figures on what it costs? The 2350 did well but in 12"-15" of snow it wasn't going anywhere real fast.
Any information on the front mount snow blower would be appreciated!
Larry

HI LARRY,
I got a quote right in my hand bx2750c subframe,50inch two stage2695, plus 300 more if i want the electric rotater.
ALAN

 

[Musclford]

Hi All,

We were blessed with a bunch of snow (12" TO 18") here in Central Illinois today. I spent many hours with my BX-2350 and endloader clearing out the drive and I am not totally done. Has anyone used the BX2750 front mount snowblower and any ball park figures on what it costs? The 2350 did well but in 12"-15" of snow it wasn't going anywhere real fast.
Any information on the front mount snow blower would be appreciated!
Larry

Hey Larry,, Blessed, well, ya I suppose so.. I worked on my drive for 6 hours..

Neighbor has a BX2200 with the plow, I got the loader and a Wolverine 350 ATV and they all performed great. I can't believe how well the loader worked..

Yes it does seem a little slow for this amount of snow, but I wonder how well the blower works for the 1-2 inchers we usually get. This is an obscene amount of snow, I'll have to post some of my pics....

Sure was fun, but even though the machines did most of the work, I sure am tired...

Have you found any new friends since your purchase? Sure is funny how everyone remembers my new purchase. 3-4 friends called, plus an uncle that was stuck in his own driveway....

See ya Larry,

Send me a PM if you get serious about the blower.. I'm actually considering the hydraulic plow so I can sell the Quad...

 

[dieseltoys]

If you can justify the cost the performance of the blower will not dissapoint you. It is way faster than trying to clear a large snowfall with the loader. I live in Southeastern BC where several feet of snow can accumulate over the winter, once it arrives it stays until spring so piling snow with a loader can result in some massive snow mountains. If you have limited space to pile the snow this can be a real pain. The only disadvantage to a snowblower can be if you have a gravel drive, rocks even down to a half inch in diameter can damage the fan and fan housing. Once the ground freezes and a snowbase packs down it's fine though. As for lighter snowfalls of 4" or less, I have a 5' rear blade and make a forward run down either side of my drive with the blade angled to cast the snow to the center and form a windrow. Then I make a pass with the blower and clear the pile away. Another tip when it comes to wet snow, if it looks like the temperature will drop I try to wait for the snow to freeze and dry up before clearing it. But sometimes that just doesn't happen or work and I have used my blower on 5-6" of wet slop and it still does the job.

Stephen

 

[Stoweski]

For what it's worth, I purchased my BX2750C with subframe for a B7610 this summer. Went for $2495.
Could have gotten the electric chute rotator for $295 and the electric deflector kit for $395. Opted for a DIY chute rotator and deflector, both electric. Here's what I'm working on...

1. Chute rotator. Found a friend with a 12V window motor from a BMW (driver side). I'm going to weld a metal shaft on it and drill a hole in the shaft. It fits right into the sleeve that the manual rotator fits in. Turns at just the right speed. Total cost with bracket $25. If a window motor wasnt free then I'd have paid a total of $65. Sure beats $295!

2. Chute deflector. Ordered a linear actuator online as well as a dual switch kit. Company called SPAL (www.spal-usa.com). The linear actuator bolts on to the side of the chute and the deflector. Also picked up a 6 wire trailer wire harness. Total cost $135.

With a savings of $540 I think I'll be doing some more mods like this! What doesn't make sense to me is why the chute deflector doesn't have a remote control, even a manual control, from the drivers seat! Seems that it would definitely be of more use with that than the way it comes!

Can't comment on the ease of use but compared to a Simplicity walk behind on a 1000' + driveway anything will be easier!

Good luck!
Keith
Kubota B7610

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Here is my set up window motor from e-bay $25 for 4 units, I have 3 spares.

Bar AL stock from HomeDepot $10, one socket, $3.95, 1 4 way connector $3.95.

Linear actuator from e-bay $75, 2 bolts from spare parts bin.

 

[Stoweski]

Here is my set up window motor from e-bay $25 for 4 units, I have 3 spares.

Bar AL stock from HomeDepot $10, one socket, $3.95, 1 4 way connector $3.95.

Linear actuator from e-bay $75, 2 bolts from spare parts bin.

Any chance I could get a close-up of that bracket you made for the window motor? I found another one in the customization forum. Was going to use that but I like the simplicity of yours better.
Also, what's the stroke on your LA? I bought a 6" and I think it might be too long. Probably can get away with it but don't know if it's necessary.

Thanks for the info,
Keith
Kubota B7610

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Keith,

Here you go, hope this helps, if not let me know.

The aluminum strip is 2 inches wide I bent it in a vice.

I have added a few pictures from different views

The motor is just a window motor, does not matter from what car as long as it has a gear on the end. I went on e-bay, typed in window motor and got the cheapest I could find, just so happen the 4 were cheaper then one! My first thought was to JB weld a nut onto the gear. Then I gave it more thought and found if I trimmed the points on the gear a bit, I could get a socket to fit. I then used an old socket extension to connect the socket to the wire screw gear.

 

[Stoweski]

Thanks Tom!

I'll be hunting down some aluminum soon. I believe we have a few scrap pieces at work that would do the job. I knew there had to be an easier way to mount the motor without having welding skills.
My friend is coming over with two motors in a few min. I'm sure one of them will work.
Thanks again!
Keith
Kubota B7610

 

[rgjanuary]

Just curious; have you had problems with the rotator not working properly when you get snow built up in the cold?

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Just curious; have you had problems with the rotator not working properly when you get snow built up in the cold?

Nope

 

[Stoweski]

Just curious; have you had problems with the rotator not working properly when you get snow built up in the cold?

No problems with the rotator or deflector motors at all. Only problem was one day when I had one of the switches freeze on me. Once I had the engine running for a few minutes it thawed out.

 

[Pkelley]

Has any one had a problem with sand and debris getting in under the chute and the Rotation bushing. The road crew uses a lot of sand on the roads and when they plow the roads it leave a lot of slop at the end of the driveway. To keep the chute rotating freely I have to disassmble the chute two or three times a year and clean out sand.

There is a flange on the base of the chute were the rotation teath are at. There are four 0.25in holes in the flange one on each side of the chute. These hole let all the road sand and debris get in on the rotation bushing. I can not see why they are in the flange.

With that being said I am planning on welding the hole over in an attempt at keeping some of the debris from getting in.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[Dyer retired]

Has any one had a problem with sand and debris getting in under the chute and the Rotation bushing. The road crew uses a lot of sand on the roads and when they plow the roads it leave a lot of slop at the end of the driveway. To keep the chute rotating freely I have to disassmble the chute two or three times a year and clean out sand.

There is a flange on the base of the chute were the rotation teath are at. There are four 0.25in holes in the flange one on each side of the chute. These hole let all the road sand and debris get in on the rotation bushing. I can not see why they are in the flange.

With that being said I am planning on welding the hole over in an attempt at keeping some of the debris from getting in.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Pkelly,

I just went and looked at my 2750 (just in case I'd lost my mind and hadn't seen them before) and my chute does not have those holes you describe. I'd say that they would have no practical reason for being there and it would not do any harm to close them up. My chute gets some grit underneath the chute, but it has never been an issue. I take it all apart and clean/grease the whole blower once a year anyway, but more for the fun of it than anything....never had the chute off out of necessity in mid-winter. From the temperature this morning, I suspect we'll be using them pretty soon. Dyer, retired

 

[Pkelley]

Thanks John

I guess I was just looking for a little reassurance.

 

[Dyer retired]

Thanks John

I guess I was just looking for a little reassurance.

I wonder why yours had the holes in the base? I grease the base before I put the chute back on and that seems to keep the grit from working it's way up under too. I think you'll have much less trouble when the holes are sealed up. How much snow do you get through the winter in Utah? To make turning it even easier, I rigged up a hydraulic chute rotation system this spring, so I'm looking forward to having that capability this winter....it will certainly be faster than hand cranking. John

 

[Stoweski]

Has any one had a problem with sand and debris getting in under the chute and the Rotation bushing. The road crew uses a lot of sand on the roads and when they plow the roads it leave a lot of slop at the end of the driveway. To keep the chute rotating freely I have to disassmble the chute two or three times a year and clean out sand.

There is a flange on the base of the chute were the rotation teath are at. There are four 0.25in holes in the flange one on each side of the chute. These hole let all the road sand and debris get in on the rotation bushing. I can not see why they are in the flange.

With that being said I am planning on welding the hole over in an attempt at keeping some of the debris from getting in.

Anyone have any thoughts?

Stupid question but is there only one bolt holding each of the four brackets on? Dyer's pict in the last post shows two brackets each with two bolts in them. I know that the front two brackets have bolts coming through the blower frame holding it on. Maybe you are missing two? Oh, I believe you called it a flange. I'm not sure what it is but I know the four hold on the chute.

Like Dyer, I take the chute off of the blower, clean and grease the bushing just to be on the safe side. It might be **** but I also clean and touchup paint the metal and then throw a coat of butchers wax on it to prevent the snow from sticking.

Keith

 

[huckflynn]

To make turning it even easier, I rigged up a hydraulic chute rotation system this spring, so I'm looking forward to having that capability this winter....it will certainly be faster than hand cranking. John

I like the looks of that! Was that your own modification? I'm thinking I need to do something similar.

I recently traded in my 2000 BX2200 for a BX2660. The dealer said I'd be able to use the blower (a BX2750) and quick hitch with the new tractor after a few modifications.

I'm not satisfied with the modification that was done to accomodate the manual chute rotation. A bracket was clamped to the hydraulic control lever to hold the chute rotator rod. (See photo) I've tried using it and as I turn the rod I ram the hydraulic control lever left and right. And the blower sits further in front of the tractor now, so the two piece rod for the chute rotation is extended further and it flexes as you attempt to rotate it. The flex combined with the lever moving back and forth means you cannot completely turn it unless you stabilize the rod with your left hand and turn the handle with your right.

I'm told that is now the standard hookup now for the BX2660. I'd love to hear from anyone else using this setup. I was quoted $350 to go electric rotation and $750 for hydraulic rotation. I'd appreciate any feedback on these options as well.

Thanks.