Ford 1700 start aid quit working ?

[JC-jetro]

You lost me with the 1/4 turning part. What are you turning? The throttle lever or something else? I saw the picts.

Ray,

Look at the throttle handle. Where I show it is where the engine dies on it's own. I move it down about 1/4 of it's full rotation from very low to very high and the engine starts at about 1000-1200 rpm.

JC,

 

[rayikeo2]

JC, You sure are fast on the pictures, you either have a picture for everything or are quick to go take one. I see what you were referring to. I put my throttle in a horizontal position and it starts at about 1500 rpm so we are on the same page now. Mine has always shut off in the up position. Cant imagine having to use the clutch to kill the engine I am also a Kansas resident at Lawrence so we might be neighbors. I have gotten a lot of good information through our posts with you and also with other posters. Will try to test my start aid today. Thanks Ray

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, You sure are fast on the pictures, you either have a picture for everything or are quick to go take one. I see what you were referring to. I put my throttle in a horizontal position and it starts at about 1500 rpm so we are on the same page now. Mine has always shut off in the up position. Cant imagine having to use the clutch to kill the engine I am also a Kansas resident at Lawrence so we might be neighbors. I have gotten a lot of good information through our posts with you and also with other posters. Will try to test my start aid today. Thanks Ray

Ray,

We live in Overland park and my so called farm is in southern Johnson County area. I pass thru Lawrence many times going to Manhattan. My Son goes to K-state and he does not want a car there, so I drive him back and forth. I just know about every building and cow on my trips to Manhattan. On the picture thing I do not run back in and out to take picture. lol, but I do have a complete panoramic pics of my tractor from close. I have a pictorial data base of all the work I have done to it as well. That affords me inspection, evaluation and comparison of components from my 2 gig flash drive anywhere I go. I did also scan my repair and owner's manual for quick reference. I'm a bit different

JC,

 

[RickB]

Ray,


PS. Just one thing to add, at start position your "starter is cranking". I think it is pretty bad idea to keep the starter running for 30 second or so just to get glow plug to heat up. I hate to burn my starter doing that. I'll take my sweet time and heat things up on pre-heat and let the starter run for 5 to 7 second to get the tractor started. I'll leave a little time each time I use the starter to give it a rest as well. starters are not very cheap. I'll check next time I'm there but,per Rick with the clutch up, clutch safety switch engaged and the key in start position you'll get no cranking but glow plug operation.

No one is advocating blithely grinding away on the starter just to activate the glowplugs.
Let's be clear on that. First, it is as you suggest, hard on the starter, and secondly, the voltage drop will reduce the amount of heat produced by the glowplugs while the starter is engaged.

 

[JC-jetro]

No one is advocating blithely grinding away on the starter just to activate the glowplugs.
Let's be clear on that. First, it is as you suggest, hard on the starter, and secondly, the voltage drop will reduce the amount of heat produced by the glowplugs while the starter is engaged.

Rick,

I did not suggest that at all. I said with the clutch pedal up, not pressed in (per Rick), the normally open safety switch would not allow the starter to run. I simply wanting to emphasize it should be done with the clutch pedal pressed in. I did not contradict your statement at all, only that I did not know that feature existed and will test it out to satisfy my own curiosity.


JC,

 

[JB4310]

Greetings, JC,
I'm sure that's a typo, I think you ment to say "without" the clutch pressed in, that's what prevents the starter from cranking. Makes sense to me.

Ray,
I'm interested in your block heater, mine has been a little rough starting in this mild weather even with my GPs working, so I know it's gonna be a problem in the winter when I want to use it for some plowing, is yours factory type internal or some after market external device.
PS, I do run out to take pictures sometimes! I took this today getting ready for some winter use like I mentioned.

 

[JC-jetro]

Greetings, JC,
I'm sure that's a typo, I think you ment to say "without" the clutch pressed in, that's what prevents the starter from cranking. Makes sense to me.

Hi John, greeting right back to you buddy,

I earlier said the "clutch pedal up" ,same as "not pressed in", and the ignition key in start position to activate glow plug. I'm sure Rick is correct but you can not tell from the ignition switch wiring diagram that terminal 17 is also powered up when the key is in start position. I hope I don't come out sounding like being argumentative, but at times we all say the same thing but in different flavor. It's all good.


JC,

 

[JB4310]

JC, I hear ya!

Something else just came to mind regarding Rays indicator not indicating, highly unlikely both glow plugs would be open/burned out, so it would have to be switch like you said or the coil itself, but that should be obvious as wouldn't it have to be broken in 2.
So what I just thought, Is there a fuse? or a link? I think the ignition has a fuse, don't know if there could some how be a separate fuse for the preheat circuit, allowing the starter to crank but not powering the coil/GP's
John,

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, I hear ya!

Something else just came to mind regarding Rays indicator not indicating, highly unlikely both glow plugs would be open/burned out, so it would have to be switch like you said or the coil itself, but that should be obvious as wouldn't it have to be broken in 2.
So what I just thought, Is there a fuse? or a link? I think the ignition has a fuse, don't know if there could some how be a separate fuse for the preheat circuit, allowing the starter to crank but not powering the coil/GP's
John,

john,

you should be able to see the open in the resistive coil but that may no happen always. Our electric clothes dryer quit working. I had juice going to the element but no breakage was apparent> i used an ohm meter to check the continuity and it showed open and it did not make sense. As I was fiddling with the coil in one section the resistive coil came apart so it basically was burnt open but did not come apart in two pieces. I ended up to crimp the edges together to get Mrs. off my back till I bought a new one from sears.

I don't know if they put fuse in the preheat circuit as a lot of current goes thru it and the fuse will turn to a heater itself.

Simply, hot wiring the GP from the battery should establish if the glow plugs works or not in a quick manner without any major work or expense.

JC,

 

[rayikeo2]

JC, My engine block heater came with the tractor when new so I assume it was factory installed and would be available from the NH Dealer as a parts order. Check to see if yours has the soft plug installed with the plug in reciever, if so all you would need is the cord. See attachments:
I have tested my glow plug problem and found the glow indicator is OK. Took the wires off and tested it for continuity and it was not broken. Reattached the wires and turned the switch and it worked. Problem may have been either a bad ground or could still be an ignition switch problem. I will watch it to see if it is still intermittant on/off. Ray