Trailer Needs For Newbie

[newbury]

<snip> we all know EVERYTHING you read on the internet is true.<snip>

Actually I thought everything we read on the internet is false.

For example the towing capacity of a 2003 Silverado 1500 ranges from 3,500 to 9,100lbs.

I would GREATLY hesitate to attempt to tow and stop what the OP wants to tow if I had a light duty Silverado, but confident if I had a beefed up one.

Look it up in the TOWING guide put out by Trailer life, Trailer Life> Tow Ratings. So Red Chief, we need more info.

 

[Ken45101]

I would GREATLY hesitate to attempt to tow and stop what the OP wants to tow if I had a light duty Silverado, but confident if I had a beefed up one.

IMO, one of the issues is how far and how often. If a person is only hauling a tractor 10 miles to the dealer once a year for repair service, and taking the trip very easy, that's different than hauling it routinely a hundred miles or more and being in a hurry to get there, or get back home.

Personally I would be willing to push the limits somewhat for a slow easy, short trip on rare occassions. But a longer trip needs a safety factor.

The OP said he was going to be hauling 120 miles (rt) several times a year to work on his hunting land. That's likely an almost 2 hour trip each way, probably not on the best of roads. For that kind of hauling, I would want more than a marginal setup.

Ken

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I would GREATLY hesitate to attempt to tow and stop what the OP wants to tow if I had a light duty Silverado, but confident if I had a beefed up one.

And there is why I posted "PROPERLY EQUIPPED 1/2-ton truck".........

 

[KeithInSpace]

IMO, one of the issues is how far and how often. If a person is only hauling a tractor 10 miles to the dealer once a year for repair service, and taking the trip very easy, that's different than hauling it routinely a hundred miles or more and being in a hurry to get there, or get back home.

Personally I would be willing to push the limits somewhat for a slow easy, short trip on rare occassions. But a longer trip needs a safety factor.

The OP said he was going to be hauling 120 miles (rt) several times a year to work on his hunting land. That's likely an almost 2 hour trip each way, probably not on the best of roads. For that kind of hauling, I would want more than a marginal setup.

Ken

I agree with every single word. I stink at saying what I mean to say...and you're saying here what I meant to say 3 posts ago.

 

[Wis Bang]

First make sure what everything weighs. Then have a frank discussion w/ your insurance man. Once you KNOW it will be covered -or- have purchased the additional coverage needed; continue to set things up. You get what you pay for so purchase the best securement possible. This would be the place to add extra capability to keep the load on the trailer.

Go to the class three weight distributing hitch and buy the best brake controler you can find. Don't cut any corners! Google 'performance suspension systems' and look into adding their system to the rear suspension as you want all the support you can get.

Someone mentioned trailer tire rating. Go for more than you think you need And then do the same to the pickup. Even with a 'trailer package' [more of a sales gimmick than reality] Detroit commonly skimps on the load range of original equipment tires and I'd be amazed to find your truck has rubber capable of more than 2,000 - 2,300 pounds each as they usually have multi plies under the tread w/ single ply sidewalls to give a smoother ride.

It is all listed right there on the sidewall. They might stand up to the occasional short trip but will not stand up to repeated longer trips. You want multi ply sidewalls and pay attention to your tire pressures.

Look at the next tractor trailer 'tiregator' you pass on the highway. Everyone calls them 'lost' retreads. Take a close look & you will see that MOST of them have steel wires sticking out. These are not re-treads but 'zipper' failures of the actual tire carcass.

Running low on air pressure +/or overloaded causes excessive sidewall flexing. Duals that are not close in pressure places the weight on the tire w/ the most pressure [largest diameter] and beats the sidewall cords until they start to fail. Once one cord pops the rest 'unzip' and since big truck radials run around 110PSIG the resulting failure is an explosive event.

You can haul this w/ a 1/2 ton truck but you need to do your homework. Unless you just want to up your life insurance.....

 

[Diamondpilot]

Someone mentioned trailer tire rating. Go for more than you think you need And then do the same to the pickup. Even with a 'trailer package' [more of a sales gimmick than reality] Detroit commonly skimps on the load range of original equipment tires and I'd be amazed to find your truck has rubber capable of more than 2,000 - 2,300 pounds each as they usually have multi plies under the tread w/ single ply sidewalls to give a smoother ride.

It is all listed right there on the sidewall. They might stand up to the occasional short trip but will not stand up to repeated longer trips. You want multi ply sidewalls and pay attention to your tire pressures.

Just did some comparison this last weekend on tires and I was pleased to find the tires on my 2007 F-150 were rated at 3,501# each. It has the BFG AT on it from the factory, one of the best tires I have ever owned.

My buddy was looking at some used 20" wheels and tires for his F-150 and they were not able to handle near the load.

Chris