New Grass not Growing

[JMER817]

Depending on the type of seed you broadcasted here is the standard germination rate:

Perrenial Rye 5-7 days
Fescue 10-15 days
KY Bluegrass 15-28days

The ground needs to be between 50-70 degrees for optimum germination (60-80 deg outside temp). Wait a couple weeks especially after a couple good rain showers and you will be cutting in no time.

What type and broadcast rate did you use? Did you happen to roll the seed after you broadcast it?

I quit using straw for my installations unless it was very dry conditions and watering was difficult. It ends up being blown around by the wind most of the time and straw usually has a few weed seeds in it as well.

Report back with pictures in a few weeks and we can help you along.

 

[ray66v]

i've seeded many lawns and a few things i've learned over the past....soil must be warm for seed to germinate successfully.

That's what I say. The ground is too cold. And putting straw on top of it, is not going to help the sun warm it up any time soon.

I wait until the ground is about 65 degrees to plant grass, and only use straw or mulch, if it is a dry season. You should get enough rain this time of the year to be able to get by without it. Then the sun can get in there.

 

[jtette]

I used a 33/33/33% mix of fescue, ky bluegrass, and rye (all cold season grass). I saw some patchy peachfuzz today for the first time. Mid 80 degree temps and moist soil helped. Very patchy though with most of the area still barren dirt or piled straw.

I used a total of 90 lbs of seed initially followed by around 10 lbs of additional seed I used to patch areas that blew away. It looks like most of those 10 lbs blew away too. I still have another 10 lbs in the bag.

The total area is around 1 to 1.5 acres so the rate was about 2lbs per 1000 sq ft. I seeded twice that area with 34 lbs 3 years ago, but it was in the fall.

Some of the straw in spots is pretty thick due to the wind blowing it around. I'm somewhat encouraged since I'm getting peachfuzz, but I'll follow up with 2 weeks of patience and post a couple more pictures. At that point, I'm not sure if I should throw down another 50 lbs on all the bare areas, but I don't know the best way to put it down to ensure it stays there instead of seeding all my neighbors lawns. Thanks for all the posts. Additional advice is welcome.

 

[jtette]

Another question: When watering a new lawn, for how long do you let the sprinker run each day? I am watering with a regular 5/8" garden hose using a sprinkler head (the kind you spike into the ground and rotates around in an adjustable pattern (up to 360 degrees). Do you let it run for 10 minutes, an hour, all day, etc...

 

[Duffster]

Another question: When watering a new lawn, for how long do you let the sprinker run each day? I am watering with a regular 5/8" garden hose using a sprinkler head (the kind you spike into the ground and rotates around in an adjustable pattern (up to 360 degrees). Do you let it run for 10 minutes, an hour, all day, etc...

Water until the water just starts to puddle on top, typically ~1 hour

Your seeding rate seems low to me, JMO

 

[dangerdoc]

The area in the pictures behind the new seeding were done in late August a couple of years back and I was mowing before the end of the season. I didn't have the luxury of a fall seeding this time though because I tilled too late in the season. I didn't get my tiller until late October. Thanks for the advice.

When you seed, the seeds need a couple of weeks of warm soil temps for the chemical changes that allow germination. We fall seed in this area, the seed does it's pregermination thing in the fall then germinates weeks earlier than spring seeded lawns. It is done here because of our harsh dry summers, it gives the grass a few more weeks to set root before the summer heat has a chance to kill it.

 

[JMER817]

As far as watering, it is best to keep the seed moist by watering lightly (10-15min) 3 x a day. This is ideal for quick germination. But with other commitments and the size of the area this is next to impossible. You only want to get the seed / straw wet. Too much and the seed will move around in the puddles and run-off. Do the best you can and hope for mother nature to help out. As the grass begins to grow, reduce the number of waterings but increase the length. This promotes good root growth.

I like that you used the 3 way mix. This is what I used to use when I did installs and works the best by adapting to different site conditions. I am concerned that you spread the seed a little too light. I would recommend 5-7lbs per 1000sq ft with this mix. If it were 100% Ky bluegrass you can get away with less.

Lets see how it grows, upload some pictures in the next few weeks, and we'll decide then how to overseed it.

 

[JMER817]

After giving it more thought, I think you need to put more seed down now. Do you have access to "landpride" overseeder? This is ideal in that it cuts little slices in the ground, drops the seed, and then a cultipacker presses the seed in firmly.

Or I have heard of some having success with a plugger which creates little holes in the surface and throw's plugs of dirt on the surface. The seed won't grow in the hole (seed should only be 1/4" deep max) but the plugs of soil on the surface will level out with the watering and rain fall and cover the seed.

 

[jtette]

I do not have access to an overseeder. I would have to broadcast seed it. Would it be worthwhile to do that now? The only problem is that I would be spreading a lot of it on top of the straw.