Building a Shop

   / Building a Shop
  • Thread Starter
#91  
Yes, it's good to be to the point where I can be working above ground again. Running into the water in the holes and all the mud and muck it left behind really slowed us down. I had hoped to have trusses set by the now, but it was about all we could manage to get the poles in this past weekend. Now maybe I can start playing catchup.
 
   / Building a Shop #92  
when you set your post over a period of weeks (which i'll have to do too), even with bracing, how much will they move and how hard will it be to pull them back to square and plumb....
 
   / Building a Shop #93  
when you set your post over a period of weeks (which i'll have to do too), even with bracing, how much will they move and how hard will it be to pull them back to square and plumb....

They shouldn't move much if braced in two directions properly. If they need some adjusting a come-a-long works great.

MarkV
 
   / Building a Shop
  • Thread Starter
#94  
90% of the treated grade board installed.

Got an hour, maybe an hour and a half in tonight after dinner. I'd gone out on Tuesday evening and set up my rotary laser and marked a level line on all the posts. Then I figured out which post was the shortest and determined where my grade line should be. For my building, Cleary considers it a 13' 4" building. That's the dimension from the grade line to the top of the pole. With their Energy Miser trusses, it provides an inside clearance of 12' from the bottom of the truss to the grade line. Of course, they figure on the concrete coming up 3 or 4" above the grade line, so I'll end up with a ceiling of about 11' 8" or 11' 9" once I put concrete in it. Had I paid closer attentiion, I'd have had them tweak it to a 13'8" height to end up with 12' between concrete and truss, but that's ok...

Went out tonight and cut and nailed up the 2x8 treated grade planks. Got all of those up except for the two 6' chunks on the front end on either side of the overhead door openning, just got too dark too quickly. Plus, I ended up with a brace 2x4 on the outside of the one short wall, so that'll have to be moved first anyway. The planks were nailed on with 20D ring shank nails, 3 per post per board.
 
   / Building a Shop
  • Thread Starter
#95  
Picture of the grade plank.
 

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   / Building a Shop
  • Thread Starter
#98  
I have a nail gun borrowed from a friend. Problem is, I can't find the right type of nails for both the gun and the building. Cleary's specs offer a gun alternative for most of the nail joints, like "Three 20D ring shanks or six 3.5"x0.131" ring shank gun nails" or something. Problem is, for the nail gun I borrowed, nobody I've checked with in town has ring shank nails for it so far. I plan to look at the palm nailer tonight, might be a good solution. I can use the gun to tack the girts and things on in place to hold them, then come back and palm nail the big spikes in to make it solid...

Plus, the building kit came with all the nails, hate to not use them and buy others...
 
   / Building a Shop #99  
For sure look at a palm nailer given that the kit came with nails. They are not that expensive and sure do save in some situations. They are particularly good for joist hanger nails which are always a pain to hand nail.

MarkV
 
   / Building a Shop #100  
Whats wrong with driving the nails the good old fashiomed way? :confused:
 

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