Building a Shop

[jayste]

I love ring shank nails on pole barns! I hate 'em when I have to pull 'em! I guess I'm a little out of touch. I had to go google palm nailer. I bet that thing works pretty good. The one I saw handled up to 3 1/2" nails. I'm still banging them in with a big framing hammer!

 

[Duffster]

For my building, Cleary considers it a 13' 4" building. That's the dimension from the grade line to the top of the pole. With their Energy Miser trusses, it provides an inside clearance of 12' from the bottom of the truss to the grade line. Of course, they figure on the concrete coming up 3 or 4" above the grade line, so I'll end up with a ceiling of about 11' 8" or 11' 9" once I put concrete in it. Had I paid closer attentiion, I'd have had them tweak it to a 13'8" height to end up with 12' between concrete and truss, but that's ok....

You should be able to pour the floor at a lower height. Like the top of concrete being at or real close to the bottom of the skirt board. That way you can keep your 12' inside clearance.

 

[Huskerplowboy]

You should be able to pour the floor at a lower height. Like the top of concrete being at or real close to the bottom of the skirt board. That way you can keep your 12' inside clearance.

I'll have to dig through the drawings again, but I think the overhead door causes me trouble. The steel panels are pre-cut, so if I slide the slab down, and thus slide the top of the overhead door frame-out down with it, the steel above the door will turn up short. (unless I opt for an 11' door...)

Shifting things up to get the 12' was my original plan, but for some reason I decided it wouldn't work out well. I'll look over the specs again and see. The ceiling height isn't that big of a deal, just more volume to heat...

 

[Huskerplowboy]

Whats wrong with driving the nails the good old fashiomed way?

That's what I did with the grade planks and the anchor blocks. Problem is, my right wrist and forearm, which I've injured before, really wasn't liking it last night after 60 some odd spikes. I picked up a nice 28 oz framing hammer before I started the project and that helps, but my arm still got wore out. I'll see about looking for a palm nailer tonight maybe to help out.

I wonder if an air hammer/chisel would work... I've been thinking of getting one of those for metalworking and automotive projects anyway...

 

[newbury]

Whats wrong with driving the nails the good old fashiomed way?

They are particularly good for joist hanger nails which are always a pain to hand nail.

That's why

 

[Duffster]

That's why

LOL Good reason I guess.

I'll have to dig through the drawings again, but I think the overhead door causes me trouble. The steel panels are pre-cut, so if I slide the slab down, and thus slide the top of the overhead door frame-out down with it, the steel above the door will turn up short. (unless I opt for an 11' door...)

What size door are you going to get?

I would get the tallest door possible otherwise your wasting headroom IMO.

If you lower the top of concrete but leave the top of door at the same place you won't change the steel length.

 

[Huskerplowboy]

Trusses are set.

Set the trusses tonight. They aren't 100% nailed down, but they're up and ready to be squared up and tied together with the purlins. Borrowed a telehandler from the contractor that's building the house to put them up with, worked out slick. Had a friend from work come out and help run the telehandler while the wife and I guided the ends into place. Went pretty quick that way. Still lots of work to do with all the purlins, the remaining girts, and a few corner braces, but we're making progress.

 

[jayste]

Husker, looking good. Life of the working man. Come home from work and work till dark!

Jay

 

[Huskerplowboy]

More progress.

Got a little time during the week to firm up the trusses some. Got the endwall trusses nailed on solid and braced with the post extensions on the middle poles the other night. Went out tonight and installed the lower chord stabilizers (2x4s across the tops of the bottom chords on the trusses to prevent flexing) to lock in the spacing and straightness down the middle of the building. Also beat a few more nails in the tops of the poles where the trusses fit down into them to better lock down the middle 4 trusses in case we catch a storm the next day or so. I feel a little better now about the trusses not falling back to earth on me...

Plan is to work on finishing up the wall girts this next week. My folks are coming out on Friday for a weekend visit, so dad's going to help with the purlins up on the roof, since 18' 2x4's 17 feet in the air is a bit tough for 1 guy to do very quickly...

 

[Huskerplowboy]

A couple pics from the other night.