MF 135 - Priced right or money pit?

[Texas Blues]

Does the brake pedel have any travel to it? Or is it tight when just trying to push the pedel? Does the pedel travel some then get tight? If the pedel moves, watch for movement on the shafts that run along the rear axle and go into the backing plates on the rear brakes. If you see movement there on both sides, then the problems is more that likely inside the brake drums. Also the brake pedal pivot points should have grease fittings on it (mine does), if your pedals arent pivoting lube them up and try loosening them up. Good Luck, TB

 

[dobiedisco]

I see movement, but they don't stop the tractor. They will lock so it doesn't move when parked. After unlocking them, I have to flip up the pedals with my toes to completely unlock them.

 

[Texas Blues]

Well then, I guess you'll have to pull the wheels and brake drums. The brakes are probably worn so thin that they dont grab the drum and need to be replaced (or possibly adjusted). If they are just worn and thats all it is, then your doing good. TB

 

[dobiedisco]

Ugh, I am hearing dollar signs cha-chinging, since I have to pay to have the work done. Went to the property this evening and it appears that cleaning to see where the fuel leak is coming from has made it worse AND there is now an oil(?) leak coming from underneath. Lovely.

 

[whitedogone]

Ugh, I am hearing dollar signs cha-chinging, since I have to pay to have the work done. Went to the property this evening and it appears that cleaning to see where the fuel leak is coming from has made it worse AND there is now an oil(?) leak coming from underneath. Lovely.

If you have to pay someone for repairs/maintence, I don't think a older tractor is right for you.

 

[flusher]

Ugh, I am hearing dollar signs cha-chinging, since I have to pay to have the work done. Went to the property this evening and it appears that cleaning to see where the fuel leak is coming from has made it worse AND there is now an oil(?) leak coming from underneath. Lovely.

Looks like you're facing a potential money pit, especially if you need pay someone to turn the wrenches. If the problem is in the high pressure fuel pump (aka injector pump), that will run you into substantial bucks quickly.

I'd move on. Perhaps that IH you mentioned earlier is in better shape for your needs.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Try to fix all the issues yourself. Old tractors are like women, they need constant attention. Hiring a mechanic and you will be half way to a new tractor.

Chris

 

[dobiedisco]

My main concern is slowing down the injector pump leak ASAP, prior to getting the manuals. Not being familiar with tractors, I don't want to start removing the lines and screwing it up any worse than it is...which seemed to happen just from cleaning it a bit. The nearest dealer I've been able to locate is ~1 hr away, will have to wait until Saturday to pick up manuals and see what they think is causing the leak. It's been isolated to 2 fittings and neither will tighten. I have no way of knowing if it's a matter of new washers or putting in a new gasket until I have the manual in hand, I guess.

I can turn a wrench, but maybe not as forcefully as you boys...meaning there will be times when paid help is required. Was hoping to tend to the minor issues myself, since there "should" not be any major ones and word is this tractor is easy to maintain, but I did not anticipate the little leak to grow this quickly.

 

[Texas Blues]

dob, can you post a few pictures of the leaking fuel area? Someone would have a better idea or suggestion if they could see it. On the oil leak, there are two weep holes on my 135. One is in the clutch housing, near the bolted square plate is (on the bottom of course). The other is in the adaptor plate in between the motor and transmission housing. If oil is dripping from the front hole, in the adaptor plate, then its probably the rear seal or the oil pan gasket. If its dripping from the rear hole it could be hydro oil or motor oil. Where does the oil appear to be leaking from? Here is a picture of how much oil was in by bell housing when I took it apart. Someone in the past had wedged a wooden plug in the rear hole, I guess cause it was dripping somewhere they didnt want it to. Good Luck TB

 

[svcguy]

The Massey 135 is indeed a fine tractor and at that price, one should expect some work needing to be done. The nice thing about the 135 is that full shop manuals are available on Ebay for about $5 (UK version) and while a bit tedious to read, they cover everything.

I would venture to guess your brakes need adjusting, are oil soaked or the shoes are glazed up from driving around in high gear and heating them up on hot stops. Glazed shoes can be roughed up with sandpaper and will be fine. If oil soaked, either clean them up or replace them, but replace the seals to stop the oil.

Complete injection pipe sets are available for the MF135, but try reflaring the ends first if not cracked. Lines are copper and can be often salvaged.

Wouldn't worry about the cake on the engine, diesels can tend to pick up a lot of dirt from dripping fuel, leaking rocker cover gaskets, spills, etc. Pressure wash the whole tractor so you can see what you have. Best to remove the cowl so you can get the top of the Perkins. Remove the rear bolts on the side, loosen the two below the radiator and tilt the entire thing forward and off. Best to use two people. Be mindful of the lights wiring, there should be slip joints for unplugging them. If not, nows a good time to add them.

The 135 is a tough tractor, parts are plentiful and cheap and the Perkins diesel is an excellent engine. I would say any 135 diesel running well is well worth the price you paid for it.

I wouldn't worry about the issues you are dealing with at the moment, they are common to all tractors (unless new).

Attached is a picture of my 135, currently being overhauled for backhoe duty.