Factory vs aftermarket buckets

[radman1]

When I bought my JD 4520, I got the skid steer attachment carrier for the FEL. I then ordered the JD skid steer foundry bucket. The price was nearly equal to the JD HD bucket. However, the skid steer bucket was nearly 450 lbs compared to about 275 lbs for the JD bucket. The foundry bucket was 72" vs 73" for the CUT bucket. The 4520 FEL has more than enough lift to compensate for the weight difference no matter what I put in the bucket. Skid steer buckets are more HD than any CUT bucket I have seen. However, most skid steer buckets have a lower profile and longer bucket which doesn't work well on CUTs due to less curl force. The JD foundry bucket is shaped like a conventional CUT bucket but has thicker steel, edge reinforcement etc. The foundry bucket is designed for heavy digging such as concrete. You won't bow the bucket edge on the foundry bucket regardless of how you lift with a CUT.

The JD foundry bucket is black and will match well with any color of FEL. Woods also have black buckets.

 

[e.myers]

Radman-
Will check into a foundry bucket for the kubotas also. The main reason then that you like the bucket is because it is more heavy duty? You mention rollback angle and I'm trying to understand. How does this affect me when I move dirt?

Ken-
I'm hearing you on the perpendicular part.... I was kind of fishing. Was hoping someone was gonna tell me, no problem to use the bucket for scarifying perpendicular to the ground. Guess that didn't work out! You spoiled the party!
Am I wrong in my thinking that DRAGGING backwards with the bucket is gonna be less wear and tear?
Not that I can afford one, but would the two loader series on the 3940 and then the more hd loaders on the 4240 be any more capable of handling this?

In general, why do I NOT want a toothbar. My understanding is that they do help with digging, but there has got to be a reason to not put them on a bucket too. Or is it only expense?

 

[powerstroke444e]

Go with a 4n1 from Kubota 60" as I have had good luck with mine on a B26 & have moved a lot of trees and broken concrete it has held up well.

 

[Ken45101]

Am I wrong in my thinking that DRAGGING backwards with the bucket is gonna be less wear and tear?
Not that I can afford one, but would the two loader series on the 3940 and then the more hd loaders on the 4240 be any more capable of handling this?

In general, why do I NOT want a toothbar. My understanding is that they do help with digging, but there has got to be a reason to not put them on a bucket too. Or is it only expense?

Sorry, but back dragging with the bucket vertical is risky too, unless you have the loader in "float" position. Again, the cylinders aren't make for that kind of work. If you pull back too hard with the dump cylinders extended, you could bend the cylinder rods. Remember, it's called a "loader" (for loading loose material), not an "excavator".

Look at the difference in the cylinders on a tractor loader and those on a skid steer. The ss cylinders will be more robust.

(Yes, most of us get away with some excavating, but that's not what it is designed for.)

The only reason I know of not to have a tooth bar is that you cannot smooth out an area as smoothly with the tooth bar, it leaves grooves whereas a smooth bucket leaves a smoother surface. You can buy bolt on tooth bars which mount with just two bolts on the side and remove it when you don't need it.

Ken

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The only reason I know of not to have a tooth bar is that you cannot smooth out an area as smoothly with the tooth bar, it leaves grooves whereas a smooth bucket leaves a smoother surface.

Ken

Ken, if you roll the bucket back so that the teeth are up off the ground, you then use the back of the bucket and have a smooth flat surface. I actually like back dragging with my toothed bucket and using the teeth, it then disperses the uneven ground evenly.

 

[e.myers]

Any tooth bar recommendations?

Mtnviewranch-
I see you back drag with the bucket teeth. Would like to do that with mine as well. No probems with tearing up stuff?

 

[jenkinsph]

I don't have an opinion on the teeth, but back dragging the bucket while flat or almost flat is more suitable for an agricultural loader. After you have alot of seat time and can control the loader with a certain amount of finesse then you can get away rolling the bucket forward. If you stress the curl cylinders too much you may damage them. In most cases to get the ground flat and smooth positioning the loader almost flat will yield good results.


Steve

 

[dex3361]

Any tooth bar recommendations?

Mtnviewranch-
I see you back drag with the bucket teeth. Would like to do that with mine as well. No probems with tearing up stuff?

Markam Welding here is a link
Markham Welding - Tooth Bar

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Any tooth bar recommendations?

Mtnviewranch-
I see you back drag with the bucket teeth. Would like to do that with mine as well. No probems with tearing up stuff?

None as of yet, but you need to realize that the bucket is only tipped (dumping) forward 10-15 degrees. I do not have the teeth straight down.
There are many ways to use the loader for back dragging, but you will find that most of the loader manufactures suggest that you never have the bucket at more than a 15 degree angle while back dragging. As has been said before, look at an industrial machine vs our farm style machines, they are designed differently. An example would be that our 580 Case has the hydraulics retracted (collapsed) when the bucket is dumped, the opposite of what all of the AG tractors have.

 

[lawn_king]

If you go crazy on the front bucket, plan to spend some $$$ on the front axle as you are going to beat the crap out of it!