Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Chains for Snow

[Charles Billings]

Corm, I also live in VT and have a 1/4 mile of hilly driveway. The NH dealer that sold me the tractor said I should try front chains first, and if those didnt do the job to also go with rear chains. I have seen many entries on TBN advising against this. Does anyone know if any major tractor company voids warranites if you use front chains? If not, then why not use them?

 

[bpattie]

Why do you say it is bad to put tire chains on the front tires only?
Corm

I think the reason is the same reason (good or bad) that some say to not chain the front. The reason being that unless the front wheels can slip when you turn, especially sharp turns that you get wheel hop, and thus put undue stress/strain on the front end. Ever turn sharp in 4WD in a vehicle on dry pavement and feel the lurching?? Now in my opinion chaining the front either with the rear or front only is probably ok as long as the surface is slippery enough to allow the wheels to grab and yet turn at different ratios. In regards to chaining the front only, that just sounds odd to me. I would think if you were going to move up in gradual degrees of "chainness" (new word) that you would start with the rear. if you have bucket full of heavy snow or anything else it reduces rear traction not front, now maybe a front bucket full was not being factored in.

 

[Jstpssng]

Why do you say it is bad to put tire chains on the front tires only? I've been plowing snow on my steep 1/4 mile gravel driveway for 11 years now with tire chains only on my front tires (R4 tires). It works great, and really aids steering when the going is slippery. I put them on in the fall and remove them in the spring. I made them myself from old truck chains. Corm

Look at the size of your front differential, then go look at the size of your rear differential. keeping in mind that they enclose your gears, whichone do you want to work the hardest?

You're probably OK on a driveway, which is relatively SMOOTH. Besides the aforementioned turning what gets you in trouble is spinning and thrashing, with one wheel grabbing better traction then the other.

 

[Corm]

I had the same experience as Charles Billings when I bought my tractor in 1998, that is, my dealer suggested I try chains on the fronts first for plowing snow. His dealer is an NH dealer, mine is Cub Cadet. There you have two different dealers of two different tractors, suggesting to their customers they try chains on the front only for plowing snow. I doubt they would be doing that if they knew the 'mother company' would be voiding any warranties.

When I made up my chains, I made up sets for the front and the rear, but I've never used the rear ones. Never needed them. Until you try chains on the fronts only, you won't believe the extra traction they provide, along with the ability to steer your tractor in slippery conditions.

To the folks that are saying the rear differential is much larger (and much stronger) than the front, I completely agree. If I was moving gravel or stone in the summer months with my bucket, I sure wouldn't be using my chains (especially while in FWA mode) for just the reasons you've had indicated. However, we are talking about plowing snow. There is enough tire slip inherent with winter conditions that negate any worries I might have about overworking the front end. I have a friend that has a JD about the same size as my tractor. After seeing how well my setup worked, we made up a set of chains for the front tires on his tractor. He has been using that setup for 10 years now, with no problems.

Sorry for the long reply, but I thought I'd share with you folks the benefit of my personal experience. As always, your mileage may vary...

Corm

 

[bpattie]

I suppose it depends some on the area of the country you are in also. my dealer stresses not to chain the front unless you have to. But here in Colorado where the snow, at least outside of the mountains, does not hang around long.....normally. so the chains may be helpful one day clearing snow (and not be harmful) and in a couple days I am driving on drive hard ground again (where it may be putting stress on front end). In Vermont and Maine your snow likely stays around longer or all Winter. Dealer may be making recommendations based on the average local conditions.

 

[Egon]

Anyone consider the size of the front to the rear tires when thinking about stresses placed on them?

 

[Gil Case]

I have not gone through this whole thread, but my experience is that a rear snow blower is pretty cheap. Maybe $1000 or less used, $2,000 new. I have a 3-400 feet of driveway (11% grade) and I never needed chains with my turf tires. Scraping that driveway with a bucket is a thankless task because you only go a few feet and the bucket is full and the snow is falling off the sides and you have to go back again. With a blower, that snow is gone, gone. If you have to invest in chains you are better off using that money to get a used rear blower on the cheap.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

I have not gone through this whole thread, but my experience is that a rear snow blower is pretty cheap. Maybe $1000 or less used, $2,000 new. I have a 3-400 feet of driveway (11% grade) and I never needed chains with my turf tires. Scraping that driveway with a bucket is a thankless task because you only go a few feet and the bucket is full and the snow is falling off the sides and you have to go back again. With a blower, that snow is gone, gone. If you have to invest in chains you are better off using that money to get a used rear blower on the cheap.[/QUOTE]


Hey Gil, if you can find me a rear blower for $1,000 or less, let me know.

 

[some zilch]

I have not gone through this whole thread, but my experience is that a rear snow blower is pretty cheap. Maybe $1000 or less used, $2,000 new. I have a 3-400 feet of driveway (11% grade) and I never needed chains with my turf tires. Scraping that driveway with a bucket is a thankless task because you only go a few feet and the bucket is full and the snow is falling off the sides and you have to go back again. With a blower, that snow is gone, gone. If you have to invest in chains you are better off using that money to get a used rear blower on the cheap.

i didnt know CT was known for its regular heavy snowfalls, constant ice, etc. turf tires wouldnt cut it unless all i did waas mow the lawn around here......

Again, find me a $1000 rear blower


here in central ny, we can get some serious snow. last year today we got 26" of wet heavy snow. several years ago we got 49" in one storm, i could not see the hood of my cummins powered 4x4 dodge. i have ring chains on the rear of my ag tired, L4400. i can do most of my plowing in 2wd, and am not afraid to brake-steer. i can easily push snow that is hood-level in 2wd. i only use 4x4 when extra icy.

 

[Jstpssng]

i didnt know CT was known for its regular heavy snowfalls, constant ice, etc. turf tires wouldnt cut it unless all i did waas mow the lawn around here......

Again, find me a $1000 rear blower


here in central ny, we can get some serious snow. last year today we got 26" of wet heavy snow. several years ago we got 49" in one storm, i could not see the hood of my cummins powered 4x4 dodge. i have ring chains on the rear of my ag tired, L4400. i can do most of my plowing in 2wd, and am not afraid to brake-steer. i can easily push snow that is hood-level in 2wd. i only use 4x4 when extra icy.

just curious, what do you consider Central NY? For several years I spent a month or so each year working around the Cranberry Lakes, Potsdam, or Boonsville areas. Beautiful areas, at least until us tourists showed up .

i was never there in the winter but they said that up around Tug Hill they wouldn't even cut wood in the winter because of the Great Lake effect. Guys would cut a twitch in the morning, and it would be buried by nightfall.