Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Chains for Snow

[GPintheMitten]

Given 4wd and the ability to add weight (removing the wood if necessary and loading in some sand bags or other weight, I would try it without chains this year. I second the suggestion for a rear blade but you certainly can try it with the loader and if you think you are working too hard, maybe borrow a rear blade to compare and if it works better, then you could buy one.

I had a long drive (1300') in the country in Michigan with lots of drifting and managed to keep it clear with a Ford 2N with a rear blade and tire chains. Sometimes it was a lot of work with deep drifts but I always managed it.

Experiment this year with what you have and you'll know if you need anything else by spring time.

I suspect that eventually you'll want a more compact rear ballast box with denser weight than firewood.

 

[bpattie]

I have to use a bucket if the snow is really deep and only problem at least I have is digging into the driveway, gravel,dirt, whatever you have if it is not blacktopped. bucket pitch has to be just right so as to not dig and not float over the snow and any unevenness in the driveway can cause you to have to make adjustment to height and or pitch.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

Lots of good comments here.

Thanks.

I doubt I will spring for a blower this first year with the JD770. I'll use the FEL and possibly spring the money for a 6' blade.

As for the Carry All...It's a big unit. It seems to me I could put probably 300 to 350lbs. of firewood on it. Just a guess. How much weight is enough??

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Lots of good comments here.

Thanks.

I doubt I will spring for a blower this first year with the JD770. I'll use the FEL and possibly spring the money for a 6' blade.

As for the Carry All...It's a big unit. It seems to me I could put probably 300 to 350lbs. of firewood on it. Just a guess. How much weight is enough??

It depends on your tractor, but 350 lbs. is not really that much. I think you'll be happier with 500 lbs. or so.

 

[smfcpacfp]

I think I would look at some kind of blade vs a bucket, if you can't afford the blower. Buckets are so bloody slow.

 

[Egon]

Buckets are so bloody slow.

Depends on how deep and how hard the snow is!

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I think I would look at some kind of blade vs a bucket, if you can't afford the blower. Buckets are so bloody slow.

I'll second that. A bucket works, but a blade that angles is by far the fastest way to clear most snows. Once in a while the snow will get deep enough that a blade won't do the job, but most of the time, it's the easiest.

 

[meanstreak]

. Hi greengrass, you can find tire chains at www.tirechains.com I have a tc45d and with the type of snow we get here early in the season which is wet hard pack a blower works hard trying to throw it. It looks nice but when you drive on it the snow gets a nice glaze on it,and if your on a slope you better have some chains and dont put them on the front only, VERY BAD. i have 2link vbar chains and have not spun a tire yet.

First post and first time tractor owner. I've got a lot to learn and I hope you all can help.

I bought a JD770 used....'92 with 2500 hours and in real good shape. I have just 2 acres with a large driveway. Got sick of snowblowing so I moved up to the bucket. I live in Maine and the past 2 winters have been very white and very deep.

So, my tractor is 4wd but I wonder....will I need chains?? My rear tires are 12.4X16 Ags if that helps at all. I did purchase a 3pt. Carry All and I will use that loaded with firewood for rear weight.

I am thinking I will be better off with chains. If so, what style of chain....Just a double link or a chain with "picks"?

As you can tell I my terminology is lacking. Hey, cut me some slack....I'm a newb.[/QUOTE]

 

[lhfarm]

There have been lots of good discussions (available by searching) about chains. On my hills, I need them. I looked at them as an implement and made the investment. I also learned here that by placing the chains behind the wheels and running a bungie cord through the rim to hook the chain ends to the tire, I can just drive them on. On/off takes only a few minutes.

If you start the season without them, you can always order them at any time. They always make a nice Christmas present.

Hope you have lots of fun in the snow.

 

[lungdoc]

Can you describe the drive on procedure a little more for me - sounds great. I'd presume back wheel up to near end of chain on ground, put bungee from close ends of chain through rim (??at closest point of rim to chain where it can be passed through?) then continue backing up until that part is around to ...?? (guessing the othe side almost back underneath).

Appreciate a better description as we struggled with this last year.

 

[Jstpssng]

Most of the guys who've replied here with "no chains" have larger, heavier tractors. Your 770 weighs about the same as my 275 Kubota, and I wouldn't go through the winter without them. I just have a set of old truck "ladder" chains that I put on at first snow and take off in spring.

If you do get them, the best way I've found is to hook them up is on a flat (plowed) surface. I usually stretch them out and drive onto the center. Get them as tight as you can and drive forward about 20 feet; then stop and retighten. I also try to get the cross links across the top of the tire bars.

Hmm, I may have to try the bungie method though.

 

[bandit99]

I had a JD 790 with a fel and grader blade with a steep hot topped driveway. I could always plow down the hill and come back up where I had previously plowed. As far as I'm concerned a fel is useless for snow. It takes forever. Any ice and the JD would spin and I'd have to get off the driveway for some snow for traction. Chains a must for hottop and a slope.
I now have a BX 2200 with a hydraulic angle plow and chains. I haven't found any snow that a I can't move if I take small bites at a frozen drift.
I have a weight box and filled it with pea gravel. Plenty of weight and I can take it out and is doesn't become a frozen mess.
BX 2200 chains are around $100 and well worth it. The 790 was a lot more expensive because of the much larger wheel diameter. In Maine check Uncle Henry's and eventually you will find some used ones in your size or ads for new that will be as good a price as you'll find anywhere. Free advice is good as the amount you pay. I have asked questions on here when I had a problem and found solutions that saved me a lot of $$.

 

[bpattie]

As far as I'm concerned a fel is useless for snow. It takes forever.

Yes it does take longer, but it can get the job done. Also, it has another purpose, at least for me. In Colorado the snow usually melts off pretty quick from the Sun. But if we get too much that accumulates you can use the FEL to move the snow bak or out of the way so you can use a rear blade,plow or grader blade to move more snow off the drive. So my opinion is that though yes it is slower to initially clear snow you can plow with it to some degree and use it to move that snow or accumulated snow off out of the way.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

Sounds like having a blade and a bucket is a good set-up. I'm going to go with that for this year.

Does the blade need to come off the tractor to change from push to pull, or does it swivel 360 degrees on the tractor.??

 

[zzvyb6]

Even with "4WD", you will need front weight in proportion to the rear weight or else your front wheel slippage can stop you cold. You can even make your own front suitcase weights right now out of high strength crack resistant concrete mix from Lowes or Home Depot. 4 of those 80 pounders produces a lot of grip. Your tractor should have a front weight bar there to use if you have the JD loader. Its part of the grill protector. To fix the bucket problem, you can rig up 2 sections of 2x10 standing at an angle off the bucket sides. You'll have to drill some bolt holes into the bucket sides to grasp the sideboards (oh my, I now have some holes in my shinny new bucket ). Set the stacked 2x10s at an angle and and you have a poor man's snowplow.

 

[lhfarm]

Can you describe the drive on procedure a little more for me - sounds great. I'd presume back wheel up to near end of chain on ground, put bungee from close ends of chain through rim (??at closest point of rim to chain where it can be passed through?) then continue backing up until that part is around to ...?? (guessing the othe side almost back underneath).

Appreciate a better description as we struggled with this last year.

Lay the chains (spread out) behind each wheel, road facing side up (if ice chains). Attach the end of the chain to the tire by using a cord or rope through the rim (at closest point as you say). Drive FORWARD slowly and the chain will ride up and over the tire. I drive just until the attached part is directly under the tire and the end of the chain is just coming off the ground.

 

[bpattie]

Sounds like having a blade and a bucket is a good set-up. I'm going to go with that for this year.

Does the blade need to come off the tractor to change from push to pull, or does it swivel 360 degrees on the tractor.??

JD
the blade can stay in one position and depending on the direction you are going it is pull going forward and push going backward. for example if the blade is facing backward (best position to avoid digging to much into driveway when ground is soft) I can switch to dragging the digging face of the blade facing forward, going forward once the ground freezes. With frozen ground the bade will not dig in, it will scrap across the top. going forward is usually best direction to travel to protect the 3 pt. Don't get me wrong you can "push" going backward (if you are watchful and careful) but the 3pt is built to drag something and not as strong going backward

 

[JDGreenGrass]

I bought a 6' CountyLine Blade today from TSC.

I have an area of soil where there once was about 13 cord of tree length firewood. The mulch and top soil is some really good stuff and by grading it with the blade I have gathered quite a sum of nice loam. And, I have been grading a nice 35' drainage path. 3pt hitch with a tractor is a powerful tool.

Spent about an hour and a half getting to know the blade and I like it, a lot. I am certain it will move the snow that is sure to come.

It takes time correcting all my mistakes.....

But ain't it fun.!!

 

[bpattie]

yes the whole thing is a learning experience. how to most effectively use your implements is a big part. Sounds like you are having fun, enjoy !

 

[Corm]

. and if your on a slope you better have some chains and dont put them on the front only, VERY BAD.
QUOTE]

Why do you say it is bad to put tire chains on the front tires only? I've been plowing snow on my steep 1/4 mile gravel driveway for 11 years now with tire chains only on my front tires (R4 tires). It works great, and really aids steering when the going is slippery. I put them on in the fall and remove them in the spring. I made them myself from old truck chains.

Corm