Need Help with quick hitch/snowblower Kubota BX2230

[bp fick]

Yeah, let it ride up. You gotta have that plate to plate. Square and flush.

Also, if the old model is like the new one, the wedges can be screwed onto the T-handles a couple of ways. Only ONE way is correct. Mine came wrong from the dealership.

They had them friction positioned on the incline of the wedge. I spun them off the T-handles and reversed. Now the square butt of the wedge is firm and square against the backside of my frame. I didn't design the system, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that my dealership setup guy got em wrong.

 

[RobiBX2230]

Ya...........kinda sorta. It is at an angle, right????????????? It can slide up a bit and still be in contact with the frame. Step on the lift arm and lift/pull on the top cylinder mount and it should slide right into place. Hold it and tighten the clamp.

This hitch is a very simple device. If it is not bent it should roll into place.

I assume that these mounting issues are why the change was made to the current hitches.

I never had any issues with mine. I find the new style more of a hassel with 2 pins and 2 T bolts whereas the old model had just 1 T bolt.

Oh..........and fill out your profile.

I'll try that, by the way, I've jumped on the front of the thing to see if I can weasle it down and all it does is make the tractor bounce because the QH is in contact with the front axle, maybe getting the angle up a little I can get it flush... I agree, this shouldn't be rocket science and I've tried this about 100 times now and can't seem to get it right, I'm starting to think it's twisted or torqued somehow...

 

[bp fick]

If it is any consolation, I think the new version is also easily screwed up and not installed correctly. It might take some doing, but I can see how things could get bent or torqued because things MUST be flush and square. Otherwise, there is no way to dissipate the shock. Basic mechanics. This is how I figured out the wedge position, basic mechanics. Now, I'm curious enough to go read my manual...

 

[kevinj]

I'll try that, by the way, I've jumped on the front of the thing to see if I can weasle it down and all it does is make the tractor bounce because the QH is in contact with the front axle, maybe getting the angle up a little I can get it flush... I agree, this shouldn't be rocket science and I've tried this about 100 times now and can't seem to get it right, I'm starting to think it's twisted or torqued somehow...

If the QH is hitting the front X, I would question if you have the proper hitch or if it is bent. It does run close to everything as the tractor is very compact. It needs a bit of room so the front X can move up & down.

Back to if it is bent. The pics look like it has been tweaked. These things are made from heavy steel and can't see how it could be bent but any thing is possible.

 

[kevinj]

Yeah, let it ride up. You gotta have that plate to plate. Square and flush.

Also, if the old model is like the new one, the wedges can be screwed onto the T-handles a couple of ways. Only ONE way is correct. Mine came wrong from the dealership.

They had them friction positioned on the incline of the wedge. I spun them off the T-handles and reversed. Now the square butt of the wedge is firm and square against the backside of my frame. I didn't design the system, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that my dealership setup guy got em wrong.

I am not sure I got this..... The angle side goes against the tractor frame and the square side against the hitch frame so it lifts the hitch up against the pins. I do know mine were wrong from the dealer.

 

[bp fick]

Here is how I have mine now. I consulted the manual. It is no help at all.
I have flush mounting of the sub frame. Frame to frame. Strong.. Square to the world. I plow, so I stress this way more than blowing does.

Yes, the wedges CAN be installed either way, but I much prefer what is pictured. To me, it is far superior to just having the wedge merely pulled into tension against the top of the tractor frame. This positioning, I believe, is a far superior mechanical advantage. YMMV

 

[kevinj]

Here is how I have mine now. I consulted the manual. It is no help at all.
I have flush mounting of the sub frame. Frame to frame. Strong.. Square to the world. I plow, so I stress this way more than blowing does.

Yes, the wedges CAN be installed either way, but I much prefer what is pictured. To me, it is far superior to just having the wedge merely pulled into tension against the top of the tractor frame. This positioning, I believe, is a far superior mechanical advantage. YMMV

Rotate them 180° so the thin edge goes over the tractor frame. I do believe that is the best solution and what the manual calls for See page 10 fig 2 clearly shows how the wedge mounts.

Your method clamps it to the tractor frame but leaves it loose below at the pins, the wedge over the frame raises the hitch to remove slop at the pins.

 

[bp fick]

Rotate them 180ｰ so the thin edge goes over the tractor frame. I do believe that is the best solution and what the manual calls for

Your method clamps it to the tractor frame but leaves it loose below at the pins, the wedge over the frame raises the hitch to remove slop at the pins.

We shall have to agree to disagree. It in no way leaves anything loose. It is rock tight. I do not think the inclined plane merely drawn into tension is an ideal system. Frankly, the upper attachment system could use some improved fabrication/modification. I have some ideas to make it better.

 

[bp fick]

Yes, I see the manual cryptically shows the schematic of the position of the wedge. I have tried it in that position. I simply don't have confidence in the locking ability of that positioning. Wear through vibration will eventually groove that wedge/frame mating place. This makes little sense to me. Little wonder the manual calls for re-tightening every day of use. Again, this design can be improved upon.

 

[RobiBX2230]

I just took everything apart and tried it all again, this time with a second set of eyes and hands to help... still the same result, unfortunately the QH can't get any closer to the bumper no matter what I try because the front axle prevents it from being brought any closer... I think I have done all I can do at this point, I have cranked the T bolt as hard as I can and nothing wiggles, I can even pick up the front wheels of the tractor with the snowblower and the hydraulics of the QH and it doesn't move... I think my problem last time is it wiggled a little, just enough to have the PTO shaft slip off (I bought the tractor used and I think the PTO shaft may have been for the BX18, maybe it was already twisted or just a hair too short)... I plan on taking it easy and snowblowing at low RPMs - I think I may opt for a rear blower for next season...