At Home In The Woods

   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#351  
I don't know anything about basements and have never looked up anything in the code book on them. I have and use the same code book.
The code book doesn't say anything specifically about basements regarding headers. Instead Table R502.5(1) specifies how the header should be constructed based on how many floors the wall supports and how wide the house is. Our house is 1 1/2 stories with a basement, the basement walls will support 2 center-bearing floors. Therefore the headers need to be constructed to support 2 center-bearing floors for a 36 foot wide house according to the table.

Your exterior corners are fine as far as strength goes, but they are going to be impossible to insulate. New code in some areas requires what's called a California Corner. Google it if you have never heard of them. The goal is to be able to put insulation everywhere, including the corners.
I didn't think about the corners. Sheathing is already up in the basement so I guess we'll have no insulation in the basement corners. I'll make sure we put some type of insulation in the main floor corners. We have some leftover 4" styrofoam from the basement wall pours. Do you think that styrofoam would work for insulating the corners? Great suggestion. Thanks!


... what did your framers use between the boards in building the headers? Did they use half in plywood? OSB? or air? Plywood is best. It gives the boards a tremendous amount of strength and is required in most areas.
No plywood between the headers. Yesterday I talked to the county inspector about how to construct the headers. Plywood is not required by or even mentioned in the code book (IRC 2003) and is not required by our county inspectors. In fact, I doubt that's a common practice in this area.

Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods #352  
Sometimes I think they go to more work to cut a corner then it would take to do it right!!! hahaha
Eddie

You sure got that right Eddie. We tried to add some wiring to a conduit run at the city where I work last year and the fish tape came up in the wrong box. It turned out that when a contractor had added the box in between the two, instead of cutting the 2" pipe and turning up both ends for a box, he cut a retangle into the top of the pipe, cut the back off of a 2" plumbing drain "T", glued and hose clamped it onto the top of the 2" pipe, added a nipple to grade, burried it in gravel and set the junction box. It looked good from looking in the box if you didn't catch that there was only one pipe in the box instead of two. I had been missed at inspection and wasn't caught until we needed to use it years later. It now sits in our shop as a reminder of why some contractors need to be watched.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #353  
Everybody, I'd love to hear some of the "extras" that you did to give us some ideas. Things like running the gas line to the back porch grill just make sense but I would never have thought of that on my own.

Obed
OBED, here are a few of my suggestions, some are repeats. First though I want to tell you what a great job you are doing and for sharing it with us here at TBN. I personally really enjoy reading this thread and for all the photos and updates that you are providing.
1) Try to take as many photos as possible of your property, especially underground utilities. I took photos at my house and drew a map (with measurements) showing where the electric, t/p lines, etc. are located. When my electric and plumbing was completed in the house (just prior to inspection before it was covered up) I took a video camera and went from room to room and video taped every wire, outlet, switch, and overhead light receptacle. I also showed where every hot and cold water line was, including vents and drain lines. Sounds kind of **** but when I had to add a line for internet service I was able to see the studs and knew exactly where I could cut into the wall without damaging anything.

2) Already mentioned blocking at corners of windows for future curtains. I also cut out in the master bath a recess cabinet opening for a medicine cabinet. We never did use this but it was there if we had wanted it.

3) Because you are back in the woods I don't know what Christmas decorations/lights you might install on the outside. If you decide to install candles on the window sills I would put an outlet under each front window and have the outlet wired so that half of the outlet is turned on with a switch. This way you could put a timer on the front outlet switch and have the candles or lights come on at a predetermined time and go off at a predetermined time.

4) Also regarding the pvc chase from the basement to the second floor make sure it is large enough. I put in 3 separate chases, 1 is for t/p or low voltage and I only made it a 1/2" opening. Should have made it larger. Firecode might indicate they be capped on both ends to prevent a draft in case of fire.

5) If you go with central vac have an outlet in the garage.

6) VERY important. The rim joist around the perimeter of my house had insulation shoved in between the joists. But I noticed ice forming on the inside 2 X 12 when it was very cold out. Not good! I should have had the builder install 2" rigid foamboard on the inside, then insulation. What I eventually did to correct the problem was have an insulation company come out ($$) and spray foam insulation directly onto the rim joist. Problem solved. Also if any hose bibs come through the rim joist make sure this is insulated as this is an entry point for cold air. You may not have this issue where you are located. Another thing I spray foamed (using Great Stuff from Depot or Lowes) at all opening from the block work up. This not only makes the house more air tight it keeps little bugs from entering the home. You'll have plenty of the little bugs as you are located in a wooded area. Any vents from your bathroom, kitchen, etc. are entry points for bugs. I put a screen (window screen material) over the ends of my vents to prevent bugs from coming in.

7) I installed a laundry tub in the garage. It's a room roughly 4' X 4' (approximately) and I use this tub all the time. I can wash the cars in the winter, (hot and cold water), the dog, your hands, etc. The drain was extended into the basement to prevent freezing but the room is insulated and I never had a problem with freezing. If you have the space add a cheap toilet. Since your concrete is poured the toilet idea might be too late.

8) We installed a laundry room on the first floor. We have a cape cod style house with our master bath on the first floor. make the laundry room large enough for the washer dryer, a few cheap Depot or Lowes cabinets and you can put a sink in there. We also have a second frig in there for soda, beer, etc. plus additional storage.

9) We installed a commercial wall heater in our master bath. Heated floors would be better, but when we go in the bathroom we "preheat" the room. This was one of the better ideas for our home. If you can't afford a heater now, prewire the room.

10) last thing I can think of right now is to put in the best available windows and doors in that you can afford. Now only will they work properly and last for many years they will save you on energy costs. Regarding energy costs don't scrimp on insulation. You pay now or pay later.

Wishing everyone here on TBN a Merry Christmas!!!!! I do not use the phrase Happy Holidays!
 
   / At Home In The Woods #354  
OBED, here are a few of my suggestions, some are repeats. First though I want to tell you what a great job you are doing and for sharing it with us here at TBN. I personally really enjoy reading this thread and for all the photos and updates that you are providing.

Obed, a couple other things I wanted to mention but forgot.

If you are planning to finish your second floor years down the road I would suggest you have your plumbing rough in put in now. This includes all hot and cold lines as well as venting and drain lines. If you plan to put a one piece tub/shower combination in you need to do it now before the framing goes up. Once the framing is in place you will never get the one piece unit through the doorways. On my house I did the second floor myself and the tub was already in, connected, and ready to go. I only had to install the toilet and sink. Another thing if you plan to put your ac/heat unit on the second floor you might want the electrician to run the electric to where the unit will be placed. And the plumber will need to put in a condensation drain line and gas line if you decide to go with a gas unit.

I remeasured the the garage slop sink room and it is more like 4' X 5' and not 4' X 4' as previously mentioned.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #355  
I am really watching your project with interest. Here are a couple of things I would do if I was building a house.

-Add the wiring for a stand-by generator. With you way out in the boonies, you will be the last one to get power back during an outage. Put the hard-ware in place now so that a transfer switch/generator can be easily installed in the future if you decide you want one.

-This is strictly up to each individual but I would investigate what it would take to add the wiring to the attic area or maybe just the conduit if you ever wanted to add a solar power set-up. Solar power might one day become cheap enough that it becomes common place. This might tie in with your generator plug etc. Or you might just be able to run the conduit empty so that you can fish the wires later if necessary. I would like to hear some input on this one too.

-Is your water well tank setup going to be in the basement? If so, put a (empty) tank in there now. It may be easier to put a tank in there now, finish the basement/house, and then hook it up rather than try to drag a tank through finished doors/openings and down stairs etc. Plus you've got laborers on site to help.

-Add a plug to the floor in the living room at places where you think you might have a table etc. The plug will be handy for lamps/etc. Get one that flush mounts so that when not needed it will be flush with the finished floor and not a tripping hazard/eyesore. Since you have a basement you should be able to do this anytime. Concrete floors have to be done before the rock is poured.

-Add a 220v plug to your garage (maybe 2). One at least for a compressor, and maybe an extra one for a welding machine or similar purpose.

-Are you planning to have a water softener in the future? Add in a couple of outside faucets with unsoftened water. You don't want to use soft water to water plants etc. Make sure the outlet you use to wash your vehicles etc. is soft water. Soft water dries easier (doesn't leave spots) and suds better.

-Put in extra wiring so that if you want an electric water heater you already have the outlet/wiring in place. Same thing for stove, dryer, etc. Same goes for gas. Put gas and electric lines to each appliance so that you can install whichever you prefer. Gas might not be cheaper than electric or vise versa.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #356  
Nice thread guys. I had to take a dinner break but finally got thru. Don't put anything between the header parts unless it's spec'd, your headers will end up too fat unless your lumber is perfect. Extra strength is not an issue there. And I think the whole compaction issue was because of too much gravel, no? Four inches is what I've ever seen in residential, no compacting needed there.
Congrads on everything Obed. Enjoy.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #357  
... Don't put anything between the header parts unless it's spec'd, your headers will end up too fat unless your lumber is perfect. Extra strength is not an issue there. ...

Gotta say that this is something that I have never done, and will never do. It's too easy to add half inch plywood in between the lumber used for the header, and the strength increase by the use of plywood is significant. It's such a simple thing to do, with so much added strength to the structure, that I do this on every opening. It doesn't matter if it's load bearing or not, I just do it.

Eddie
 
   / At Home In The Woods #358  
Eddie

I agree with you, I want the header to be flush on both sides. That way anything that gets nailed or screwed into the header doesn't get pushed or sucked in too far. And like you say it's so simple to do, why not do it.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#359  
Everybody,
Thanks for all the great ideas! You've given me a lot to think about. I'm sure we'll implement many of the suggestions you have provided.

I'd love to hear more, not just those who have built houses. Is there a feature you wish had been added to your house while it was being built?

Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods #360  
Did I miss it or have you posted your plans? Love to see them if you have not posted them (digging now through older posts).
 

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