Cost of construction.

[EddieWalker]

Warranties are a wonderful thing. That is until you have a problem. I've had to deal with a few companies and their warrenties. They either honor them right off, or they play games. In my experience, if they honor it, it's just the remplacement material. If a tile is bad, or a piece of laminate flooring, they will give you another. That's it. You get to replace it or hire somebody to replace it. If they play games, then you have to give them the receipt, prove that it was installed properly and that it was a manufacturer defect and not an abuse issue.

In my opinion, 90% of the time, it's not worth the hassle to deal with it. I think even a larger percent of people don't even try.

I would never consider a warranty in buying a product. What are you going to do if your roof panel starts to rust in ten years? Will they still be in business? Will they come and replace it for you? Will they even take responsiblity for it, or demand to know how it was installed and come up with something that was done wrong at the time of install?

I know for a fact that some products will be 100% identicle, but if you buy the one with the longer warrenty, you will pay more for it then the exact same product without the longer warrenty. Carpets are famous for this in their different grades. Again, what will you do when you have a carpet issue ten years from now?

I would buy the thicker metal that has the best reputation for it's coatings. Somethings you can cut corners on, other things you should always buyt the best product available. Roofs are where you never cut a corner.

Eddie

 

[ovrszd]

Good advice Eddie. I never buy a product based on the quality of the warranty. When I buy power tools and they ask me if I want the extended warranty I always say "If I need the extended warranty then I'm buying the wrong product".

 

[EddieWalker]

Eddie,

Almost every building around here with 8',9', and 10' spacing has 2x4's on edge.

I am curious what you mean by "never get 2x4's on their edge to last with an 8ft span"?

How do you fasten 16' 2x6's to the truss?

Sorry, I missed part of this in my early reply.

I'd never go 8ft with a 2x4 on the edge for the reason that I already mentioned. Going even farther is just going to be allot worse. I'm actually shocked that anybody would to ten feet!!!! That really surpises me.

As for fastening a 2x6 to the truss, it would be the same as a 2x4 on edge. With wider spacings, you use larger lumber, but it still attaches the same. I've never used anythng larger then a 2x6 myself, but I've seen plenty of buildings with 2x10's and 2x12 on the edge. With those sized boards, brackets and bracing is used, but with the 2x6's, I've just used 3 inch screws to fasten them into the trusses and a single 2x4 block to hold it in postion below the 2x6.

With metal trusses, they always weld on tabs for the lumber to attach to. I've never built with these myself, but have seen them often enough to know it's a common building method.

Eddie

 

[wedge40]

I seem to recall someone talking about a round concrete doughnut that they put in the bottom of each hole. Where can you find these?

Wedge

 

[Duffster]

A 2x4 on edge will sag over time when only supported at the ends. I've seen it on fences, railings and roofs. I don't know your area, or what you've seen. I wouldn't do it.

Eddie

We have 6 post frame buildings with 2x4 purlins with framelines 8' o.c. that proves they won't sag. Most of these buildings are older than me.

Purlins are not fence rails.

Sorry, I missed part of this in my early reply.

I'd never go 8ft with a 2x4 on the edge for the reason that I already mentioned. Going even farther is just going to be allot worse. I'm actually shocked that anybody would to ten feet!!!! That really surpises me.

I have never seen (or heard of) 2x4's used in the 9' and 10' spacing where they where not set on top of the truss until a poster in another thread said his are set in between the trusses 9' o.c.. I am not a fan of using 2x4 purlins with framelines 10' o.c. but it is common and I can't say it is wrong.

As for fastening a 2x6 to the truss, it would be the same as a 2x4 on edge. With wider spacings, you use larger lumber, but it still attaches the same. I've never used anythng larger then a 2x6 myself, but I've seen plenty of buildings with 2x10's and 2x12 on the edge. With those sized boards, brackets and bracing is used, but with the 2x6's, I've just used 3 inch screws to fasten them into the trusses and a single 2x4 block to hold it in postion below the 2x6.

Most common method of fastening a purlin(2x4) to the truss is to nail through it into the truss with a 7" ring shank.

2x6's are not typically used for purlins until the trusses are 10-12' o.c. and they are usually set between the trusses using saddle hangers.

I have never seen 16' 2x6's used for purlins.

I seem to recall someone talking about a round concrete doughnut that they put in the bottom of each hole. Where can you find these?

Wedge

I would stick with the Sacrete.

 

[EddieWalker]

Can't say that I'm suprised. You build differently then I do. The nice thing about an open forum like this and having people from all over the country is that they can get a variety of ideas on how to do things.

They can decide which works for them and do their own research. If they want to use 2x4's on edge for 8ft spans, that's their choice. I'll never do it, but if it works for you, that's good to hear.

I am curious, have you actually built anything? or are your replies based on observations and what you've read? You sound like an architect or supervisor. Lots of ideas, but they don't sound like you've actually done the work yourself. Maybe a home owner who hired it out and was told some stories by the contractor who did the work?

Eddie

 

[Duffster]

Can't say that I'm suprised. You build differently then I do. The nice thing about an open forum like this and having people from all over the country is that they can get a variety of ideas on how to do things.

They can decide which works for them and do their own research. If they want to use 2x4's on edge for 8ft spans, that's their choice. I'll never do it, but if it works for you, that's good to hear.

I am curious, have you actually built anything? or are your replies based on observations and what you've read? You sound like an architect or supervisor. Lots of ideas, but they don't sound like you've actually done the work yourself. Maybe a home owner who hired it out and was told some stories by the contractor who did the work?

Eddie

Nope. I have never built anything in my life.

 

[Duffster]

Oh....but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express.

 

[dave1949]

Good advice Eddie. I never buy a product based on the quality of the warranty. When I buy power tools and they ask me if I want the extended warranty I always say "If I need the extended warranty then I'm buying the wrong product".

Me too. Sometimes I'll ask why they think I should need it
Of course I figure they get brownie points or bonuses for selling the warranty.
Have you priced an extended warranty on autos lately? Yikes. It's like going to Vegas where the house always wins.
Dave.

 

[gerard]

Some photos of it while under construction. I dont have any of completed building after painting and garage door installation. The walls are 9 foot studs with one course of 8x16 CMU block to raise the walls up so I can powerwash the floors without wetting the walls. The complete interior has R 19 insulation and sealed with 3/8" plywood.. The attic has a 30 foot by 8 foor floored storage area also with lighting.

Seems like you got your money's worth Gary. Very nice building.