Chainsaw selection... ideas?

[Sixkids]

Husqvarna Rancher. (55 I believe). One of the best! It has a cast motor housing, unlike the plastic ones they went to, then covered with metal! It works very well and really does the job. You would have to buy a used one as they aren't made any more.
Six

 

[Varmintmist]

Great Stuff guys!!

well I have to admit I have learned alot..
And the budget just will not support a new $300+ chainsaw right now..
Which is what I believe I should consider...

So I will have to sharpen my chains and see what I can limp along with..
We cut maybe 2 cords a year and 1-2 emergency tree cleanups...

We just managed to upfit the wood working shop with a table router(Skil) and a new brad nailer-dewalt.

let me check craig's list and see what I can do....

again thanks!!!!

but keep the ideas going...

As for sharpening.. do you just send the chains out? or do you have a bench sharpener?

thanks!
J

Get some new chain and use your saw. 2 cord a year and clean up does not require a pro or semi pro saw. Poulan Pro is a decent saw, they make a lot of the low end Huskys. As long as its running right and you have good chain on it (not semi skip, anti cut) it should cut anything you want. Run GOOD bar oil and GOOD mix oil and HIGH TEST gas always.
The only thing that cuts locust quick is det cord. Best heating wood on the planet, just hard to reduce to size. A new saw wont help much.
I run 3 Huskys, a 139, with a 16 in bar for little stuff, a 61 with a 16 in bar, the requirement with him is that you hang on , and my main saw is a 359 with a 20in bar which is one step below the full pro saws. Normally if I am really going that day I run the gas out of the 359, set it down and run a tank through the 61, then sharpen and fill the 359 while the 61 cools. The wife runs the 139 mostly, I bought it for her for her birthday.

 

[bflank]

The only thing that cuts locust quick is det cord. B

And these days det cord is often a mite hard to come by for civilian use. Can't think why.

 

[newbury]

I disagree and agree:
Disagree

Get some new chain and use your saw. 2 cord a year and clean up does not require a pro or semi pro saw. Poulan Pro is a decent saw, they make a lot of the low end Huskys.

Any ANTICIPATED serious cutting requires a pro saw. If your pretty sure you will be cutting 2 cords or more per year a "small Stihl" like a 260 or 360 will be good AND RELIABLE 10 or 20 years from now. This is even more important if you want a saw for emergency use. As in "a tree fell on my neighbors house" ('cuz we know you'd never let one get to be dangerous to your house). You want to be able to grab that saw, fuel it up and run it. a "cheap saw" is good when you want to be able to loan it, your going to use it once and give it away, or it might get stolen. Since the OP already has a saw he needs to take care of it.

Agree

As long as its running right and you have good chain on it (not semi skip, anti cut) it should cut anything you want. Run GOOD bar oil and GOOD mix oil and HIGH TEST gas always.

Add in SHARP for chain and make it plural. Keep at least two sharp chains on hand. Nothing worse than trying to finish before dark and have a chain break or get rocked bad. Cutting with a dull chain just burns up the engine.

For fuel add in FRESH. Anything over three weeks old should be put to other uses. Ethanol in gas rots hoses, fuel lines, and gaskets. Unless I anticipate a fair bit of cutting I keep a gallon of UNMIXED high test on hand, mix a 1 liter bottle at a time before cutting. Than monthly get rid of what's not used.
This way I've got high test on hand for emergency (like when my neighbors tree fell on my house), but I don't worry about putting a gallon of mix in the hybrid gas car.
And if you don't anticipate using the saw for a month, dump the mix, run it out.
Out of my 4 saws my Efco (below) is very sensitive to old gas.

Whereas my Stihl is not as sensitive.

Saws 'n bars:
Efco MT 3600 ($50 - 10", 16")
Stihl 021 bought new about 10 yrs ago (12", 16")
JD CS 62 (won/free, 20", 28")
Stihl 660 $510 from ebay (28", 42")
Cut logs like a bureaucrat cuts red tape, lengthwise.

 

[swmich42]

Love my Stihl 046. (new ones are labeled 460) Cuts through anything, hickory, maple, oak. Has a 20" bar, and use if for everything. I have a smaller poulan I use if the larger saw gets hung up. Ability to service and get parts is reason I went with this brand.

 

[Coyote machine]

My Stihl saws are listed in my signature. I've always had Stihl brand since I started working at my first real hard work job when I was 14, (58 now) for a pro Tree Surgeon and his Tree and Crane companies. The owners were German- need I say more as to choice of saws?:laughing:
I also have a DR Brush mower with the 15hp Kawasaki engine and their Pro 6.5hp Mower/trimmer. And an Echo powerhead that runs a 12" chainsaw at the end of a pole. It also runs a their articulated hedge trimmer that locks in 15 degree increments. I've used and owned(came with my house) an old Homelite, and probably some other things when working for others over the years.
I like using what I'm familiar with. I believe in safety first and always. Stop if tired. Use at least 2 chains to a new bar and match up bar and chain by manufacturer in most instances, especially if using pro grade saws, because there is a lot of money tied up in the engineering so one might as well get the benefit.
Change the in gas tank filters every season, clean out the bar and oiler area frequently and keep the chain sharp. Avoid twisting the bar if saw is stuck- you can damage the bar and it will be noticeable by the bluish burn marks on the bar where the paint is worn off. Wear chain saw boots, helmet, eye and ear protection and chainsaw gloves, available at Baileys and other arborist sites/stores.
Clear a path around your felling work if in the woods and needing to possibly get away if a tree goes the wrong way.
Have a radio to contact someone back at the ranch if you get hurt- better to plan for the worst and not need it than end up needing assistance with no one to come help.
Use good situational awareness and stop working before you feel tired enough to have to stop. I have found taking a short break each time I run out of gas I then check the chain and have some water and re-access the situation at hand while getting ready to do whatever is next on the tree chore list. I revives my energy level more than trying to work non-stop, and it takes pressure off my back especially. ( I just ordered a back belt with suspenders to help keep chronic pain from overtiring me during my woods work).

Someone mentioned a Stihl 019T- I believe you mean the 192T? Either way, if the recoil cord is snapping back toward the housing I suggest trying to pull it out further by pulling slower on the cord and when it comes out a ways vs. a few inches then quicken the yank on the cord and see if that works better. I just bought a used MS192T and find it sometimes does what you were saying- I see most of my friends who own saw /equipment stores bringing the recoil cord out almost to the end of the cord and then jerking the cord the rest of the way to get saws, weedeaters, etc. to start and if it does not start, instead of releasing the cord hold the handle and tug it again to spin the motor until it burps, and then go off choke/start and run it when it begins to run; taking it from fast throttle and releasing the trigger lock and let it warm up some before revving it too much.

The last part is especially important when breaking in a new saw, and chain bar combo too. If adjusting a new chain after having run it for a short time snug it up but not too tight and after finishing work back off the chain tension slightly to take pressure of the bearing/motor. Most new Stihl saws owner's manuals state this useful and possibly saw life extending info.
Hope my comments are useful to some- and those who already know all or most of what I stated- thanks for reading.:thumbsup:

 

[xyz123]

There is a 019T link with pic Model Profile: 019T

 

[Coyote machine]

So the 019T is a Canadian version/ model #?

 

[newbury]

So the 019T is a Canadian version/ model #?

I thought they were an older model, the only ad i found was for some place in Alabama

Stihl Chain Saws for Homeowners at Advanced Mower

 

[RadarTech]

Wow I am surprised to see new activity here...

anyway--- I got that husky and had a neighbor down the road that need a saw..
I knew the saw would be fine for them and made a deal actually it was a gift really.. asked for a 5 gallon can of diesel...

they have used it alot..
and that Husky, well I am on 3rd or 4th sharpening for the 2 orginal chains with an extra spare in the tool box in the truck..

The occasional emergency cut has been more than occasional...

The saw has cut at least half a dozen fallen trees between the driveway and the gravel road by the house... Not sure who was cutting the falling trees on the gravel road, but they only cut enough for a small car to get by....

I did break a tow strap pulling the remains of a tree out of the center of a tree a week or so ago... It's okay it was a harbor frieght one from 2 years ago, looked kinda ragged anyway.. :ashamed:


Anyway-- it's all good... and it's getting weird weather around here...
There was snow in Eastern TN last weekend, and it has been cold and warm around here (38 to 75 ) in the last 2 weeks.. so this may be an interesting winter....


Later taters!

J

 

[davonmurray]

Just got reminded of the Texas Chainsaw Massacar movie. lolz

 

[czechsonofagun]

I had Solo 651 from Baileys - yellow - and it was nothing but trouble.

When it finally died, wife got me 455 Husqvarna. Love that thing, strong like an ox and light enough.

I still have some chains and bar left from the Solo, it was narrow kerf. I replaced the sprocket on the Husqvarna and run the 20" Solo bar with narrow kerf chain on it. That thing is an animal, I maybe never go back to original 3/8 chain again.

 

[American Bulldog]

I had Solo 651 from Baileys - yellow - and it was nothing but trouble.

When it finally died, wife got me 455 Husqvarna. Love that thing, strong like an ox and light enough.

I still have some chains and bar left from the Solo, it was narrow kerf. I replaced the sprocket on the Husqvarna and run the 20" Solo bar with narrow kerf chain on it. That thing is an animal, I maybe never go back to original 3/8 chain again.

I have a 455 as my backup saw, and the thing is ultra reliable and runs good. My Dolmar 5105 is much more temperamental, but when running right it will make circles around the 455. I will never get rid of the 455, because it is always ready to go when I need it.

 

[ragkar]

If it's a two cycle engine, make sure that you put a big label near the gas tank to use 50:1 gas-oil mixture.
I recently nearly lost my Echo chainsaw by accidentally putting straight gas into it. I had a paper label warning me to use the 50:1 but the words '50:1' had faded and in my haste I only saw the word 'gas'. Anyhow, within ten minutes the engine rings had so heated that they welded themselves to the cylinder and the engine seized.
The desperation fix was to remove the plug and hang the chainsaw with blaster in the cylinder for a week. Then I removed the rope starter assembly and put a socket wrench on the nut. I was ready to use an impact wrench if necessary but only a slight tug broke it loose.
The engine started on the second pull of the rope.

 

[czechsonofagun]

One great trick I learned for stopping the piston - like when you take the clutch off - is to feed piece of rope into the cylinder via spark plug hole. Rope is soft enough to stop the piston safely.

 

[rocknrod]

Well I hate to say this, but I have a little Husky 235. Allot of plastic and it does NOT start every time. Maybe after 5 or six. Pretty new unit too. Not impressed with its ability to cut either.
So my next new purchase will be a Stihl.

 

[xyz123]

If you ever get to tear down a 372 or other saw that has been run on 50:1 you will see why 40:1 is a better option. Bearings need lubricant and 50:1 is a epa thing IMO. Look for the oil residue on your bearings on a saw run at 50 :laughing:. It's your saw and your money :licking:. Pay me now or pay me later :thumbsup:. I run at 32:1 and never past 40:1.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWjZ1yDgMVI

 

[crazyal]

If you ever get to tear down a 372 or other saw that has been run on 50:1 you will see why 40:1 is a better option. Bearings need lubricant and 50:1 is a epa thing IMO. Look for the oil residue on your bearings on a saw run at 50 :laughing:. It's your saw and your money :licking:. Pay me now or pay me later :thumbsup:. I run at 32:1 and never past 40:1.

YouTube - Husqvarna 372xp testing 79 chain carb set richer

For me and the extra few cents it costs I'll burn a little extra oil to make sure there's enough in there to coat the walls and keep the bearings lubed up.

 

[Nitro-Fish]

So the 019T is a Canadian version/ model #?

The 019 & the 020 were the top handle platform used before the 192's & 200's, many sold here in the states, plenty are still going strong as long as they were not owned by a tree service company!

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Husqvarna Rancher. (55 I believe). One of the best! It has a cast motor housing, unlike the plastic ones they went to, then covered with metal! It works very well and really does the job. You would have to buy a used one as they aren't made any more.
Six

The 346xp or the 353 is probably the closest thing to your 55 (power wise & mag case) for the price, but they're much higher priced than your 55 was (they are both lighter too).

Well I hate to say this, but I have a little Husky 235. Allot of plastic and it does NOT start every time. Maybe after 5 or six. Pretty new unit too. Not impressed with its ability to cut either.
So my next new purchase will be a Stihl.

This is a homeowner type saw, kind of the disposable line! Think Poulan Wild thing!

If you ever get to tear down a 372 or other saw that has been run on 50:1 you will see why 40:1 is a better option. Bearings need lubricant and 50:1 is a epa thing IMO. Look for the oil residue on your bearings on a saw run at 50 :laughing:. It's your saw and your money :licking:. Pay me now or pay me later :thumbsup:. I run at 32:1 and never past 40:1.

YouTube - Husqvarna 372xp testing 79 chain carb set richer

I've got (2) 372's, a 2000 model and a 2002 model year (and several others both Husqvarna and Stihl 14" to 36" than I care to list); I run 50:1 in them and always have, no problems here, I just make sure I always use good mix & never use and old mix; of course I go through fuel like crazy so it never has a chance to get old! I have had several saws apart and have found on the 372's it's usually just a re-ring & go. I have seen some come in that are in need of seals, usually due to never cleaning the saw. A little air goes a long way in helping the life span of a saw. Even a Pro saw can be ruined by poor maintenance! Keep your fuel lines fresh, change the filters regularly, never use old mix (or cheap 2 cycle mix) & keep on cutting.