Oil & Fuel Syntheic oil at 50hr service? Old topic, but want fresh ideas

[OtterBrookStables]

Appreciate your inputs - thanks.

He would follow the recommendations in the manual.

That's part of the problem - the manual says nothing about any break-in.

He also said it's 2010, their should not be any metal filings.

Its still an engine with metal-to-metal friction points. There are most certainly filings where the mating surfaces wear in - you might not be able to easily see them, but they are definitely there and not something you want in your motor oil. That's why lots of vehicles come with magnetic oil pan drain plugs.

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Your tractor isn't considered broken in, by Deere, until the 100 hour mark. FWIW

Curious - Where did you read or hear this?

I know this is all overkill, but it's fun, ain't it?

 

[OtterBrookStables]

I can't find it,but my manual actually states the engine oil from the factory is break-in oil. It also states to change the oil after 50 hours,which makes alot more sense than waiting on 200.

Greg

Greg - if you can find it please tell me exactly where you found this in your manual? Maybe I missed it in my 4120 manual. The motors in our tractors are vastly different, though, so there may be a difference in break-in.

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Found a great resource - check it out:

Frontier Power Products - Deere Break-In Oil

Highlights:
"The first 100 hours of operation are critical to the life and performance of an engine. During the first hours of operation, the rings and liners must seat (establish a pattern) for proper performance. If this does not occur, the life of the engine can be adversely affected."

"New John Deere engines are filled at the factory with John Deere Engine Break-In Oil. During the break-in period, add John Deere Engine Break-In Oil (part number TY22057) as needed to maintain the specified oil level."

"Do not use PLUS-50 oil or engine oils meeting API CH-4, API CG4, API CF4, ACEA E3, or ACEA E2 performance levels during the first 100 hours of operation of a new or rebuilt engine. These oils will not allow the engine to break-in properly."

 

[Kamik]

Additional references:

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/7571_wc_Oil_and_Filters.htm

John Deere Reman - Information Center

Service Engine

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Additional references:

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/7571_wc_Oil_and_Filters.htm

John Deere Reman - Information Center

Service Engine

Good stuff - Thanks!

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Greg - if you can find it please tell me exactly where you found this in your manual? Maybe I missed it in my 4120 manual. The motors in our tractors are vastly different, though, so there may be a difference in break-in.

Thats the problem...everywhere you look or ask you'll find a different number as to when to change the oil... :confused2:

Heres a shot of the service sticker under the hood of my 3520:

FWIW...I changed the engine oil at 50 hours and refilled with JD Break In oil. at 100 hours I switched the engine over to Plus-50 Synthetic 0w40, and changed the trans/hydraulic oil.

 

[jimgerken]

Otter: My local dealership (actually a conglomerate of 6 dealers under single ownership) tells me with each new tractor I buy: (roughly quoting them...) If you change at 50 hours, use JD breakin oil again. Run it another 50 hours. If you havent done a lot of really hard work with it, go ahead and run the factory-fill breakin oil to 100 hours. In other words, run the breakin oil for 100 hours. But more importantly make sure the tractor is actually working, not just driving around the yard for this breakin period. A little loader work is not enough to work the engine to break it in. Even a little mowing doesnt really work the engine, as you know. If possible do some ground engaging work with it. Once you have actually done some good hard work with it in the first 100 hours, then change the oil to whatever you want to use (assuming it meets JD required specs). The point they are making is, this first 100 hours is your breakin period. Use it properly for a better-sealed engine with more power and less blowby.
I use synthetic in everything I own as you indicated. But I am not in a big hurry to get it in there. Your engine is going to run for 5000-10000 hours, take your time and get it started right.

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Thats the problem...everywhere you look or ask you'll find a different number as to when to change the oil... :confused2:

Heres a shot of the service sticker under the hood of my 3520:

FWIW...I changed the engine oil at 50 hours and refilled with JD Break In oil. at 100 hours I switched the engine over to Plus-50 Synthetic 0w40, and changed the trans/hydraulic oil.

Thanks for the info Spud. I'll check the sticker on my 4120 and see if it's the same.

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Otter: My local dealership (actually a conglomerate of 6 dealers under single ownership) tells me with each new tractor I buy: (roughly quoting them...) If you change at 50 hours, use JD breakin oil again. Run it another 50 hours. If you havent done a lot of really hard work with it, go ahead and run the factory-fill breakin oil to 100 hours. In other words, run the breakin oil for 100 hours. But more importantly make sure the tractor is actually working, not just driving around the yard for this breakin period. A little loader work is not enough to work the engine to break it in. Even a little mowing doesnt really work the engine, as you know. If possible do some ground engaging work with it. Once you have actually done some good hard work with it in the first 100 hours, then change the oil to whatever you want to use (assuming it meets JD required specs). The point they are making is, this first 100 hours is your breakin period. Use it properly for a better-sealed engine with more power and less blowby.
I use synthetic in everything I own as you indicated. But I am not in a big hurry to get it in there. Your engine is going to run for 5000-10000 hours, take your time and get it started right.

Great info - thank you. Agree with everything you say. I'm inclined to just leave the factory break-in oil in there until 100 hours, then switch to 0-40 synthetic. One problem is, I don't have a way to really work the tractor hard. We use it mostly for moving round bales around and some loader work - dirt and manure. The 74" snowblower works pretty hard in a heavy storm, but it's been a really mild winter - we've only had three big storms where the tractor actually had to work a little (the thing is a torque monster!). I'll be punching about 100 12" holes with my PHD in a month or two, but it's easy digging and the 4120 will do it at idle. Other than that, maybe I will do a little bush hogging. One last chore is to rake the paddocks when the ground dries out to get the winter's manure raked up and removed. Not sure what I'm going to use to do that - I don't have any implements that would work right now. Open to suggestions. So, all that said - I hope I'll have enough work on the tractor in the first 100 hours to swap over to synthetic.