Oil & Fuel Syntheic oil at 50hr service? Old topic, but want fresh ideas

[OtterBrookStables]

Appreciate your inputs - thanks.

He would follow the recommendations in the manual.

That's part of the problem - the manual says nothing about any break-in.

He also said it's 2010, their should not be any metal filings.

Its still an engine with metal-to-metal friction points. There are most certainly filings where the mating surfaces wear in - you might not be able to easily see them, but they are definitely there and not something you want in your motor oil. That's why lots of vehicles come with magnetic oil pan drain plugs.

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Your tractor isn't considered broken in, by Deere, until the 100 hour mark. FWIW

Curious - Where did you read or hear this?

I know this is all overkill, but it's fun, ain't it?

 

[OtterBrookStables]

I can't find it,but my manual actually states the engine oil from the factory is break-in oil. It also states to change the oil after 50 hours,which makes alot more sense than waiting on 200.

Greg

Greg - if you can find it please tell me exactly where you found this in your manual? Maybe I missed it in my 4120 manual. The motors in our tractors are vastly different, though, so there may be a difference in break-in.

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Found a great resource - check it out:

Frontier Power Products - Deere Break-In Oil

Highlights:
"The first 100 hours of operation are critical to the life and performance of an engine. During the first hours of operation, the rings and liners must seat (establish a pattern) for proper performance. If this does not occur, the life of the engine can be adversely affected."

"New John Deere engines are filled at the factory with John Deere Engine Break-In Oil. During the break-in period, add John Deere Engine Break-In Oil (part number TY22057) as needed to maintain the specified oil level."

"Do not use PLUS-50 oil or engine oils meeting API CH-4, API CG4, API CF4, ACEA E3, or ACEA E2 performance levels during the first 100 hours of operation of a new or rebuilt engine. These oils will not allow the engine to break-in properly."

 

[Kamik]

Additional references:

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/7571_wc_Oil_and_Filters.htm

John Deere Reman - Information Center

Service Engine

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Additional references:

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/7571_wc_Oil_and_Filters.htm

John Deere Reman - Information Center

Service Engine

Good stuff - Thanks!

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Greg - if you can find it please tell me exactly where you found this in your manual? Maybe I missed it in my 4120 manual. The motors in our tractors are vastly different, though, so there may be a difference in break-in.

Thats the problem...everywhere you look or ask you'll find a different number as to when to change the oil... :confused2:

Heres a shot of the service sticker under the hood of my 3520:

FWIW...I changed the engine oil at 50 hours and refilled with JD Break In oil. at 100 hours I switched the engine over to Plus-50 Synthetic 0w40, and changed the trans/hydraulic oil.

 

[jimgerken]

Otter: My local dealership (actually a conglomerate of 6 dealers under single ownership) tells me with each new tractor I buy: (roughly quoting them...) If you change at 50 hours, use JD breakin oil again. Run it another 50 hours. If you havent done a lot of really hard work with it, go ahead and run the factory-fill breakin oil to 100 hours. In other words, run the breakin oil for 100 hours. But more importantly make sure the tractor is actually working, not just driving around the yard for this breakin period. A little loader work is not enough to work the engine to break it in. Even a little mowing doesnt really work the engine, as you know. If possible do some ground engaging work with it. Once you have actually done some good hard work with it in the first 100 hours, then change the oil to whatever you want to use (assuming it meets JD required specs). The point they are making is, this first 100 hours is your breakin period. Use it properly for a better-sealed engine with more power and less blowby.
I use synthetic in everything I own as you indicated. But I am not in a big hurry to get it in there. Your engine is going to run for 5000-10000 hours, take your time and get it started right.

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Thats the problem...everywhere you look or ask you'll find a different number as to when to change the oil... :confused2:

Heres a shot of the service sticker under the hood of my 3520:

FWIW...I changed the engine oil at 50 hours and refilled with JD Break In oil. at 100 hours I switched the engine over to Plus-50 Synthetic 0w40, and changed the trans/hydraulic oil.

Thanks for the info Spud. I'll check the sticker on my 4120 and see if it's the same.

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Otter: My local dealership (actually a conglomerate of 6 dealers under single ownership) tells me with each new tractor I buy: (roughly quoting them...) If you change at 50 hours, use JD breakin oil again. Run it another 50 hours. If you havent done a lot of really hard work with it, go ahead and run the factory-fill breakin oil to 100 hours. In other words, run the breakin oil for 100 hours. But more importantly make sure the tractor is actually working, not just driving around the yard for this breakin period. A little loader work is not enough to work the engine to break it in. Even a little mowing doesnt really work the engine, as you know. If possible do some ground engaging work with it. Once you have actually done some good hard work with it in the first 100 hours, then change the oil to whatever you want to use (assuming it meets JD required specs). The point they are making is, this first 100 hours is your breakin period. Use it properly for a better-sealed engine with more power and less blowby.
I use synthetic in everything I own as you indicated. But I am not in a big hurry to get it in there. Your engine is going to run for 5000-10000 hours, take your time and get it started right.

Great info - thank you. Agree with everything you say. I'm inclined to just leave the factory break-in oil in there until 100 hours, then switch to 0-40 synthetic. One problem is, I don't have a way to really work the tractor hard. We use it mostly for moving round bales around and some loader work - dirt and manure. The 74" snowblower works pretty hard in a heavy storm, but it's been a really mild winter - we've only had three big storms where the tractor actually had to work a little (the thing is a torque monster!). I'll be punching about 100 12" holes with my PHD in a month or two, but it's easy digging and the 4120 will do it at idle. Other than that, maybe I will do a little bush hogging. One last chore is to rake the paddocks when the ground dries out to get the winter's manure raked up and removed. Not sure what I'm going to use to do that - I don't have any implements that would work right now. Open to suggestions. So, all that said - I hope I'll have enough work on the tractor in the first 100 hours to swap over to synthetic.

 

[glc24]

Greg - if you can find it please tell me exactly where you found this in your manual? Maybe I missed it in my 4120 manual. The motors in our tractors are vastly different, though, so there may be a difference in break-in.

Sorry I didn't post earlier,I was working. I figured I'd post anyway.
Funny thing these manuals. Hood sticker and manual don't jive!
Don't know what to do:confused2:
Maybe I'll just drop back and punt

Greg

 

[bp fick]

Sorry I didn't post earlier,I was working. I figured I'd post anyway.
Funny thing these manuals. Hood sticker and manual don't jive!
Don't know what to do:confused2:
Maybe I'll just drop back and punt

Greg

Greg, printed manuals are printed in bulk, at a great price. When they get superceded, the OEMs continue to ship them out with outdated info. Sometimes they place an update sticker, as they did on your tractor, or they just allow the confusion to reign. Short and sweet? Go with the sticker, as it is new information, no doubt. Stickers are cheap and if they need updating, it isn't as expensive for the OEMs.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Sorry I didn't post earlier,I was working. I figured I'd post anyway.
Funny thing these manuals. Hood sticker and manual don't jive!
Don't know what to do:confused2:
Maybe I'll just drop back and punt

Greg

Well, actually they might. Depends on how you look at it.
Your hood sticker doesnt have a "First 50 Hours" column....it has a "Every 50 Hours"...2 totally different things...

 

[glc24]

Wacky,isn't it,and I don't know if I want to wait until I hit 200 hours to change oil. Maybe I'll do like some and put breakin oil again at 50 hours,then change to synthetic oil at 100.

Greg

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Well, actually they might. Depends on how you look at it.
Your hood sticker doesnt have a "First 50 Hours" column....it has a "Every 50 Hours"...2 totally different things...

Very true - frustrating!

The best info I have been able to gather so far it so use break-in oil for the first 100 hrs, then run anything you want. Not sure if I will swap out now - at 50 hrs - for fresh break-in oil or just go the full 100. :confused2:

Too bad Deere can't get theor act together and print a manual that is accurate and clearly states the requirements. This is ridiculous, really.

 

[deputy11]

Just to muddy things up some more, this is a copy of part of JD3520 owner manual. There is no mention of oil change until 200 hrs.

After First 10 Hours
Check wheel bolt torque.

Check cab rollover protection system mounting hardware torque.

Check windshield wiper arm mounting hardware torque.

Every 10 Hours or Daily
Test safety systems.

Check engine oil level.

Check transmission oil level.

Check air filter rubber dust unloading valve.

Check radiator coolant level.

Every 50 Hours
Check front axle oil level.

Lubricate machine.

Check cab protection system mounting hardware torque.

Clean or replace cab air filters.

Every 200 Hours
Change engine oil and filter.

Inspect alternator belt.

Check air restriction indicator light.

Check wheel bolt torque.

 

[OtterBrookStables]

Just to muddy things up some more, this is a copy of part of JD3520 owner manual. There is no mention of oil change until 200 hrs.

Yep - my 4120 manual says the same thing. Back in this thread I posted a link and some others posted a couple more that are a little more informative. Check 'em out if you haven't already.

 

[jimgerken]

This year I ran my new 3720 to 160 hours on the factory fill. I watched the level carefully (check every morning!) all summer. Lots of loader work, some mowing, and I was pulling a 10 foot disk with it some of the time, doing tillage of sod (very old cowyard pasture), in prep for seeding it to alfalpha hay. A few hours of disking is a good load on the engine. As the hours approached 160, the oil seemed to be all done, as evidenced by a gradual (over a few days) comsumption of about a half quart. When I saw this, I drained and changed filter, and refilled with Ams 15W40. Now it has 240 hours on it and it does not use any oil. From now on, I will change oil yearly, which should be about 200 hours per year.
Another idea for putting on a load would be a wood chipper (maybe a rental). If sized properly, and branches piled up and ready, you'd get a good workout (so would the tractor). Running a pto powered tiller could also work it well, assuming the tiller was big enough. Any PTO device could do it if loaded right. Stump grinding maybe?

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Another idea for putting on a load would be a wood chipper (maybe a rental). If sized properly, and branches piled up and ready, you'd get a good workout (so would the tractor). Running a pto powered tiller could also work it well, assuming the tiller was big enough. Any PTO device could do it if loaded right. Stump grinding maybe?

You bring up a good point...Properly breaking it in is just as much if not more critical then the actual oil change. If your tractor leads a "pampered" life, then I'd probably use break in oil till 150ish hours.
I was lucky in that last winter we actually got snow here in Maine and I was able to really give my 3520 a workout on the blower. In the spring I switched to the Syn and she's been fine ever since.

 

[orlo]

I have a new 4720 with less than 10 hours on it. A deal near where I travel every day said they do come with break in oil so I got some in case I need to top off the oil. I did think about changing it at maybe 10-15 hrs and putting break in oil back until maybe 50. I figure the filter change alone will take out a lot of crap.
I was even thinking of changing the filter for the hydraulic oil since I think I can change the filter without draining (on the hydraulic oil.

200hrs does seem like a long time. On my 3720 my dealer used to recommend changing it at about 80hrs.