Proper Way To Line Chimney?

[arrabil]

No scare tactics here... I can see the damaged liner when I pull the stove pipe. It looks like a spider crack in a windshield. Certainly only a step or two away from falling away from the bricks. I don't think the home inspector had any reason to lie about it eight years ago either.

House and flue were built in 1984. I believe its 9"x7" inside the ceramic liner. And the three or four times we used it in the first year it took forever to heat up to the point it would flow right.

Its a small wood stove. Its not going to heat the whole house under any circumstances. But it would help heat the bedrooms above it and the room it sits in. I'd guess it could drop our electric bill $50-75. And who doesn't like playing with fire!?

 

[Skyco]

I just lined my chimney myself, total cost $590. I used 6" semi-flex SS pipe with a ceramic blanket insulation. The insulation was about half the total cost. I was just going to line without the insulation but found code usually requires it and most insurance won't pay if it isn't done right and the worst happens.
There are oval versions available to fit clay liners as small as yours...lots of info and vendors on the net. I studied it for days before I ordered the materials. Some sites have DIY videos etc.
I was lucky my liner was 13x18 so fit was no problem. I did have to cut out a big part of the cast iron damper to get through that area.
My clay liner and all was in good shape, but just didn't draw well. The 6" SS liner works fantastic. I'm running a Voglezang Colonial EPA rated insert. Not my first choice but got a really good deal on it, so far so good.

PS Since my liner cost is considered part of the install of the EPA rated stove- I get to take 30% of the cost of the whole works (about $1400) directly off my federal taxes as a credit! $420 off- bringing my total cost for stove and liner below $1000.

 

[Tig]

Both guys called the other guy an idiot.

You need a third quote. One from a professional who does not need to denigrate his peers.

 

[Greenmountain Farmer]

Both guys told me I have the simplest possible setup for a wood stove... one story above ground, half way down the basement wall, right angle to the wood stove pipe. They both said they could work from a ladder instead of getting on the roof.

They also both said that titanium was better than SS and the first guy showed me the catalog he'd order from and the cost difference was minimal.

Is a 4" pipe good enough?

Do not go any SMALLER then the size of the diameter of the size of stove . A smaller flue will not provide the proper draft!

Tom in Vermont

 

[MarkV]

Might be worth an e-mail to the wood stove manufacture. I would think 4" would be too small.

MarkV

 

[arrabil]

You think I can get a tax credit just from installing an EPA liner? Or do I need to install a new stove too?

How hard is it to slide the liner and insulation down the chimney? I imagine its gonna be a tight fit... does it not get "stuck" on the way down?

I did not know about the oval ones either. Makes me wonder why the installers didn't suggest it for my setup. I don't believe I have anything in the chimney like a damper. I'm pretty sure its just a straight opening from basement to roof.

 

[trumpeter]

I just had my chimney lined. The original chimney was only a year old but the morter between the 8X8 clays failed. I got the same confusing information. I finally went with the 6" stainless steel liner without the insulation @ $1500.00 Neither the insurance company or the codes people had a clue as to what was right or wrong. Figured if you can install a metal chimney on the outside of your house and it has no insulation why not put it inside a masonary structure.

 

[Egon]

Maybe get a qualified opinion on flue size. Different stoves may require different velocities which is determined by diameter of the flue.:thumbsup:

Four inches may not be enough??? I'm not qualified!:ashamed:

 

[Slackdaddy]

If the stove has a 6" Collar, you need a 6" flue, period.
If this is an outside chimney, you will REALLY want it insulated.
A non insulated exterior chimney will draft very poor, AND create a lot more creasote, do to the smoke and tars condensing on the cold flue walls.

That said, a 6" metal flue that is insulated will not fit down a 7" ID clay flue tile.

Do it right, do it safe.

Slack

 

[Skyco]

You think I can get a tax credit just from installing an EPA liner? Or do I need to install a new stove too?

How hard is it to slide the liner and insulation down the chimney? I imagine its gonna be a tight fit... does it not get "stuck" on the way down?

I did not know about the oval ones either. Makes me wonder why the installers didn't suggest it for my setup. I don't believe I have anything in the chimney like a damper. I'm pretty sure its just a straight opening from basement to roof.

As I understand it the liner plus other costs can only qualify for the credit if a new EPA stove/insert is bought and installed. It is a package deal as far as the credit.

It wasn't that hard to install, of course my flue had plenty of room, one of the reasons it didn't draw well, it was too big, sized for a large fireplace. A small insert stuck into the opening just didn't work well with the smoke boiling out into the fireplace cavity and taking a leisurely stroll up the chimney.

BTW flue sizing is very important for a wood stove/insert- put in what the manufacturer says, too big or too small it isn't going to work right.
As for the guys not suggesting the oval liner- there is another thread running on TBN about "pros" not knowing their stuff:ashamed: