Need some help with cable controls

[dcyrilc]

That's good that you tested it so you can find out if the mower has other issues besides control cables. From your pictures, I'd say once you get the control cables worked out you'll be good to go.

It does seam to have issues, but I should be able to work around them. The arm has a lot of movement if set to float on the ground. A LOT of movement. With controls, I should be able to let it ride and inch or so off the ground and be fine for what I need to do with it. The movement in the arm can be looked at next winter if it becomes a major inconvienance.

I have also discovered that driving with an arm sticking out to the side will take some practice to get used to. LOL

 

[8404]

Are you able to see over your tire at the flail head when cutting close in or do you have to lean over to see what your cutting.

 

[dcyrilc]

Are you able to see over your tire at the flail head when cutting close in or do you have to lean over to see what your cutting.

So far, with what minimal testing I have done the answer is yes. However, I have not run the mower in close to the tire yet.

 

[3RRL]

The motor control valve is repaired. Parts...1@ 1/4" bearing, 1@ 1/2" snap ring. Cost...free. One peice of the puzzle complete.

Haven't found a source for cable parts yet, but I'll get there. This should be the easy part once I find a source.

Hi Cyril,
Looks like you found the right source alright?
Here is a photo I took yesterday of your new cable sleeves. The one in the center is the original. The new ones are made of aircraft grade aluminum. Four of the new ones are 1/2" longer and two are 1/4" longer. As soon as you call me to tell which thread it is (either 5/8"-18 or 16x1.5mm) I can finish them up for you and put them in the mail. I have both taps ready to go.
Rob-

 

[3RRL]

Here ya go Cyril,
After your phone call earlier today, I went to the shop to drill and tap them for the Metric 16x1.5mm threads. They are done and cleaned, and Loretta is putting them in USPS package right now. You should have them by the middle of next week. The stock collar is in the middle of the photo below. I hope you get your mower going soon, and thanks for the fun little project...
Rob-

 

[dcyrilc]

Here ya go Cyril,
After your phone call earlier today, I went to the shop to drill and tap them for the Metric 16x1.5mm threads. They are done and cleaned, and Loretta is putting them in USPS package right now. You should have them by the middle of next week. The stock collar is in the middle of the photo below. I hope you get your mower going soon, and thanks for the fun little project...
Rob-

No, Thank You Sir...very much. You do beautiful work! :thumbsup:

I understand how a lathe works to mill out the piece and drill and tap it, but I have to ask...
...how did you make the hex top for putting a wrench on it to adjust it? That part has me stumped.

 

[aczlan]

I understand how a lathe works to mill out the piece and drill and tap it, but I have to ask...
...how did you make the hex top for putting a wrench on it to adjust it? That part has me stumped.

I think he milled it down a little on a lath (see the stepped edge at the corners of the flats) and then ground flats onto it. Looks like it was factory made. GREAT work.

Aaron Z

 

[dcyrilc]

I think he milled it down a little on a lath (see the stepped edge at the corners of the flats) and then ground flats onto it. Looks like it was factory made. GREAT work.

Aaron Z

I thought of that idea, but I think it would be difficult to get the angles and depth right. Different people have different sets of knowledge and experiance. I bet that Rob knows a tool and a means which will allow him to quickly and efficiently get it right every time.

Years ago, before I went to work for the city doing maintaince, I used to work for a contractor building traffic signal and street lighting systems (did it for 27 years). We had a job for the city of Seattle changing out 2000 street lights from murcury vapor to high pressure sodium (the orange ones seen today). By the time we finished that job, I could completely replace and rewire a hot street light in under 60 seconds. I chuckle when I watch someone level and tighten a street light in 5-10 minutes. Even now I can level it both directions and tighten it in about 15 seconds. It all has to do with how you do it. If you have the opportunity to do something enough times you get to learn what works, what doesn't, and what works really really well. This is what I call learning the tricks of the trade.

 

[3RRL]

No, Thank You Sir...very much. You do beautiful work! :thumbsup:

I understand how a lathe works to mill out the piece and drill and tap it, but I have to ask...
...how did you make the hex top for putting a wrench on it to adjust it? That part has me stumped.

Cyril,
On the lathe I turned the outside and inside diameters and chamfers.
I also turned the (to be threaded) hole for the Metric threads because they are a smaller diameter than the 5/8-18. I figured if I had to enlarge it for the American thread, I would do it later. But if it was the Metric thread, they were done already. After doing all the lathe work, I set up a Harrig #1 Spin Jig on the milling machine. I can index that Jig to any angle I want. I set it to rotate 60 degrees and milled off (side milled) the hex for a metric 22mm wrench equally from each side. I cut the hex back into the chamfer so it would look really good.
Thank you (and Aaron) for the compliments!

 

[dcyrilc]

Cyril,
On the lathe I turned the outside and inside diameters and chamfers.
I also turned the (to be threaded) hole for the Metric threads because they are a smaller diameter than the 5/8-18. I figured if I had to enlarge it for the American thread, I would do it later. But if it was the Metric thread, they were done already. After doing all the lathe work, I set up a Harrig #1 Spin Jig on the milling machine. I can index that Jig to any angle I want. I set it to rotate 60 degrees and milled off (side milled) the hex for a metric 22mm wrench equally from each side. I cut the hex back into the chamfer so it would look really good.
Thank you (and Aaron) for the compliments!

Sounds like I was right about it being a trick of the trade. Knowing the right tool to use and how to use it. I've never heard of the Harrig #1 Spin Jig and have no idea what it is, but again, that's why I try to go to someone who knows how to do what needs done. I can do a lot of things, but this one was beyond my experiance base. Thanks again for the help Rob.