Leaking fuel line BX2660

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Moved more dirt from my top soil reserve pile up to my garden, Drug boxblade most of the time to smooth out my "road" down to my pile of dirt and back up to the garden. Finished my dirt moving/boxblading and ready to reinstall MMM since grass is about a foot tall.
Turned tires on MMM so they will roll under tractor and notice a wet spot. Check and fuel is dripping off the two lines held together with plastic ties right near fuel filter and silver thing that looks like a fuel filter. Dryed lines and felt up them both and located a rubbed spot on the line that is not going into the fuel filter. The rubber boot had slid back on I guess drive shaft and it must have spun with the drive shaft and rubbed thru hard ribbed plastic cover over line and then almost thru the side of the fuel line. Will stop by Barlows tomorrow for fix advise but maybe someone here has some sage wisdom as to best/easiest repair. In my mind I'm figureing some type of metal tube slid into the ends of the fuel ine after I cut it and then a clamp at each end. Yahs or nays?

 

[radioman]

Its a rubber hose. Wouldnt it be easier to replace the hose with a slightly longer one to reroute it away a little from the driveshaft? The silver thing is your feul pump that is next to your feul filter.
How did the boot come off ? was it damaged ?

By the way, With all the work you are doing with the hoses, Might as well add a feul petcock before the first filter where it comes out of the tank. It would save you a headache when changing filters in the future. I am thinking of doing the same thing, but havent yet since My feul lines doesnt need servicing yet.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Its a rubber hose. Wouldnt it be easier to replace the hose with a slightly longer one to reroute it away a little from the driveshaft? The silver thing is your feul pump that is next to your feul filter.
How did the boot come off ? Don't know, may have been off the entire time was it damaged ? No, I just pushed it forward and it slipped right over it's proper home and sort of seated into place some what secure. May be something for others to check.

By the way, With all the work you are doing with the hoses, Only work I plan on doing is cut it, insert tube and two clamps, hopefully. Might as well add a feul petcock before the first filter where it comes out of the tank. It would save you a headache when changing filters in the future. How, you mean by stopping fuel from continueing to flow when changing filters? I am thinking of doing the same thing, but havent yet since My feul lines doesnt need servicing yet.

Thanks for reply.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Also, I can't find beginning and end of hoses, I'm sure they are there but I didn't find them with out digging deep. Also, why 2 lines for fuel?

 

[bp fick]

JT sometimes engines use a re-circulating fuel system. Haven't looked to see if the BX uses that or not.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

JT sometimes engines use a re-circulating fuel system. Haven't looked to see if the BX uses that or not.

You mean like pump pumps at all times and if not used by engine then goes back into tank? Makes sense since no filters on 2nd line that has leak.

 

[Kubota-guy1911]

Every diesel engine I've ever worked on has a second line that returns excess fuel back to the tank.

kj

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Every diesel engine I've ever worked on has a second line that returns excess fuel back to the tank.

kj

dO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR REPAIR OTHER THAN REPLACE THE ENTIRE LINE? Oops, cap locks on.

 

[oldnslo]

You could splice the line but this adds more leak points. All you would need is a barbed fitting for the diameter of hose and a couple hose clamps. If there is enough slack and the wear spot is very short you could probably just get a barbed union, cut out the bad section, put the barb fitting in place, tighten the clamps and drive away. Any decent auto parts store should have these fittings.

Roy

 

[radioman]

If you need to do something in a pinch, get barbed fittings or get a metal feul line and 4 high pressure clamps from local auto store. On my car that developed a leak, I would cut the metal line, insert hose long enough to cover at least 6 inches on each side and put 2 high pressure clamps on each side of cut. On your BX, use a 4-6 inch long metal gas line and put in side of your hose and clamp. This will get you up and running. Just don't use the worm clamps- I hate thoses on feul lines. sometime they strip, sometime they not tight enough, sometimes you crush line, sometimes the rubber squeezes through the slits in clamp.

listen to oldnslo- use barbed fittings and high pressure clamps.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

You could splice the line but this adds more leak points. All you would need is a barbed fitting for the diameter of hose and a couple hose clamps. If there is enough slack and the wear spot is very short you could probably just get a barbed union, cut out the bad section, put the barb fitting in place, tighten the clamps and drive away. Any decent auto parts store should have these fittings.

Roy

If you need to do something in a pinch, get barbed fittings or get a metal feul line and 4 high pressure clamps from local auto store. On my car that developed a leak, I would cut the metal line, insert hose long enough to cover at least 6 inches on each side and put 2 high pressure clamps on each side of cut. On your BX, use a 4-6 inch long metal gas line and put in side of your hose and clamp. This will get you up and running. Just don't use the worm clamps- I hate thoses on feul lines. sometime they strip, sometime they not tight enough, sometimes you crush line, sometimes the rubber squeezes through the slits in clamp.

listen to oldnslo- use barbed fittings and high pressure clamps.

Thanks guys. Barbed fitting it is. Now to figure out size. This return hose isn't as big and the filtered line. On my way to work and I pass Barlows so will stop for their info on size and they may have a fitting.

 

[oldnslo]

JT,
the return hose would also be low pressure since it is just allowing fuel to flow back to the tank.

The hose size might be marked on the hose.

Good luck at Barlow's and DON'T bring home another tractor

Roy

 

[radioman]

Wouldn't it be easier to cut the bad part out, say 1/4 wide and take it to the local auto store and show em you need fittings and clamps for it ?

Might help your addiction to steer clear of barlows. Las tthing you need to do is buy another tractor at this stage.:thumbsup:

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

JT,
the return hose would also be low pressure since it is just allowing fuel to flow back to the tank.

The hose size might be marked on the hose.

Good luck at Barlow's and DON'T bring home another tractor

Roy

Wouldn't it be easier to cut the bad part out, say 1/4 wide and take it to the local auto store and show em you need fittings and clamps for it ?

Might help your addiction to steer clear of barlows. Las tthing you need to do is buy another tractor at this stage.:thumbsup:

Also needed a zerk for MMM that came off in grease gun yesterday. Gary at Barlows said they didn't have one but told me it was a 6MM. Service man told me small fuel line is i/4" and they didn't have a barbed connector said they just go to auto parts store when they need them..
Had to go right by Barlows anyway.
Went to Auto parts store and the guy told me he had the 1/4" barbed connector but I would be better off going to a local industrial supply place since his package of 2 connectors was $6 he said to high from his place. Went to industrial supply and got 1/4" and next size up barbed connectors, 6 MM zerk and a 2 pack of connectors for air hose for $5. Got home and couldn't get broken stem of zerk out so having to ponder that. Ideas accepted.
Couldn't find any hose clamps small enough so got parts, need clamps. Didn't want to mow today anyway, to hot and supposed to cool down next week.
Saw Barlows has alot of Orange tractors and stuff and looks like hundreds of implements of all size and shape but I was on a mission for parts and not equipment.

 

[bp fick]

They go by different names, but an EasyOut, I call them, is a twisted, DairyQueen whip ice cream shaped tool. Goes in your drill like a bit. It is pretty cool. As you turn it to remove the broken piece, it get tighter.

These work good for me.

If that fails to work, or there isn't room for such a thing, I'd drill it out. Carefully. Re set the threads with a tap and put a new one in. Even if you have to go up one size, and even if that particular grease zerk is SAE. It doesn't matter, as long as you can grease it.

 

[Tractor Factor]

If that fails to work, or there isn't room for such a thing, I'd drill it out. Carefully. Re set the threads with a tap and put a new one in. Even if you have to go up one size, and even if that particular grease zerk is SAE. It doesn't matter, as long as you can grease it.

Yeah, drill it and tap it. You might do well to start with a smaller size bit and gradually work up in size as you shave down the metal. As bp said, "carefully". If you bung up the threads you might have to tap a larger size.

A little over-aggressive with the grease gun, are we?

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Yeah, drill it and tap it. You might do well to start with a smaller size bit and gradually work up in size as you shave down the metal. As bp said, "carefully". If you bung up the threads you might have to tap a larger size.

A little over-aggressive with the grease gun, are we?

Not really. First time I had greased it and just removed it and went to next fitting and it wouldn't go on. Then noticed something was in the end of the coupler. Think it was defective.
I have a set of the screw extractors, at my other location!

 

[bp fick]

They get whacked. Once they get hit, by goodness knows what half the time, they snap off. No big deal. Drill 'er out, tap, replace.

 

[beckmurph]

JOHNTHOMAS
There is only one fuel line. If you look close the other line is a plastic cover over theelectrical
lines going to your fuel pump (which is just ahead of your fuel filter). You can get barbed hard plasic couplings that will slip into the rubber hose (after you have cut the fuel line in half). Put two new fuel line clamps on each side of the barbed coupling. The rubber fuel hose would be a lot of trouble to replace from the tank to the filter.
Oh by the way: You will want run your fuel way down before you fix this leak. When you take that line loose or cut it the fuel in your tank is going to drain out through that hose. You will want to catch this fuel in a container of some sort.

 

[Kubota-guy1911]

My BX has a supply and a return line. Page 41 in exploded view book.

No need to "run the fuel level down". Gently pinch the hose off with vice grips or I have a pair of pliers made by K&D that is made to pinch off hoses while repairs are being made.

Best permanant fix is replacement but several mentioned semi-permanant repairs with barbed fittings and hose clamps. I would probably use the hose and barbed fittings and keep an eye on it when doing other checks. Watch for items and area's it can rub against.

kj