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dcyrilc
Super Member
Yep. Just have to get the mounting bracket for the controls back and then I can start playing. Sitting in a holding pattern right now.:laughing:
Need some help with cable controls
- Thread starter dcyrilc
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Yep. Just have to get the mounting bracket for the controls back and then I can start playing. Sitting in a holding pattern right now.:laughing:
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dcyrilc
Super Member
Update...
I stopped by and talked to my friend who's fabricating the mounting bracket today. They got swamped with work so the bracket's on hold 'til they get caught up. Might be a couple of weeks. I'm good with that as he seldom charges me for the work he does.:thumbsup:
I always ask "How much?", but he usually just says it's on him.
I stopped by and talked to my friend who's fabricating the mounting bracket today. They got swamped with work so the bracket's on hold 'til they get caught up. Might be a couple of weeks. I'm good with that as he seldom charges me for the work he does.:thumbsup:
I always ask "How much?", but he usually just says it's on him.
4shorts
Elite Member
My buddy your a very patient man. Free or not I would have to have that done by now. That's the one thing I hate doing is waiting for something. I admire you for that
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dcyrilc
Super Member
My buddy your a very patient man. Free or not I would have to have that done by now. That's the one thing I hate doing is waiting for something. I admire you for that
I have so many projects that if I can't work on one, I just move on to another for a while. The work he did refabricating the cowl/battery compartment saved me $1210 which is what a new one cost through Deere. My 45ft spun alluminum flag pole would have cost between $1500 & $2K if I had to buy it.
It's said that patience is a virtue...for me, patience pays. James has saved me over $5K over the years. I'm willing to be patient for that.:thumbsup: Also, as said before...he's a friend and if I respect his friendship, I have to realize that paying work has to come first. That's what keeps his doors open.
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dcyrilc
Super Member
Got a call today that my mounting bracket is done. I'll be picking it up either tomorrow or Friday. If weather premits, I'll get it together and try some mowing this weekend.:thumbsup:
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dcyrilc
Super Member
Picked up the mounting for the controls today. I went by the farm and test fit it after work. It will need a little modification tp work properly. It was made with four mounting fingers instead of three as asked for and as currently built it hits the side of the seat. It also interferes with my ability to access the loader controls.
I'll post pictures of the mount shortly.
I'll post pictures of the mount shortly.
OP
dcyrilc
Super Member
Here are the pix.
We are going to have to trim a little so that it can move outward on the fender. Shouldn't be too big a deal. I'll also have to clean the old dried out grease inside the control levers and regrease them. I'll work on that tonight and tomorrow night. We'll try some test mowing this weekend before I take the mount back on Monday.
We are going to have to trim a little so that it can move outward on the fender. Shouldn't be too big a deal. I'll also have to clean the old dried out grease inside the control levers and regrease them. I'll work on that tonight and tomorrow night. We'll try some test mowing this weekend before I take the mount back on Monday.
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mjncad
Super Member
The fab shop did a nice job on the bracket. It's too bad they gave you one extra finger that you didn't need.
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dcyrilc
Super Member
My thought had been that I could have adjustment one way or the other with only three fingers. My design would have interfered with the loader controls also. This actually ends up better in the long run as I need to shift it two finger widths to the right so that it's not in the way of my arm when reaching for the loader controls.
I mounted it last night and put the controls on various finger combonations to see where it needed to be so that I wouldn't have to try to reach over or around it. With how the fender sits in relation to the controls, I can move it to the right the amount needed with just some trimming. You can see the marks I made with a sharpie in one of the pix. I'll take some pix of it on the tractor when I try mowing on Sunday. Saturday is supose to rain, but Sunday is supose to be nice.
4shorts
Elite Member
Hey Cyril. How did this cable problem work out??? Paul
OP
dcyrilc
Super Member
Worked well. I still need to do some adjustment on the on/off lever, but everything else is working well. I've had the mower off as I've been working on other projects.
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dcyrilc
Super Member
Well, it seems to be time to updeate this thread.
I got the mower working well just in time to break it. I mowed a strip along my drainage ditch and pulled the mower in to turn around and go back to make another pass. When I did I smacked the valve assembly with the mower head. No visable damage to the outside, but it wouldn't turn the mower on any more. I pulled it apart tonight and here is what I found.
The first picture is what the top of the valve spool used to look like and the second is what it looks like now.
The top of the spool snapped where the pin goes through it. As parts for the valves are no longer available, I'm going to see if it is possible to get it welded. The alternative is to replace the entire valve stack assembly.:ashamed:
I got the mower working well just in time to break it.
I mowed a strip along my drainage ditch and pulled the mower in to turn around and go back to make another pass. When I did I smacked the valve assembly with the mower head. No visable damage to the outside, but it wouldn't turn the mower on any more. I pulled it apart tonight and here is what I found.The first picture is what the top of the valve spool used to look like and the second is what it looks like now.
The top of the spool snapped where the pin goes through it. As parts for the valves are no longer available, I'm going to see if it is possible to get it welded. The alternative is to replace the entire valve stack assembly.:ashamed:
kennyd
Advertiser
Well, it seems to be time to updeate this thread.
I got the mower working well just in time to break it.
The first picture is what the top of the valve spool used to look like and the second is what it looks like now.
View attachment 170630 View attachment 170631
The top of the spool snapped where the pin goes through it. As parts for the valves are no longer available, I'm going to see if it is possible to get it welded. The alternative is to replace the entire valve stack assembly.:ashamed:
What a bummer
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dcyrilc
Super Member
What a bummer
You got that right. Other than replacing the blades, it was running great.
mjncad
Super Member
Man that sucks, especially after all the work you've done to get everything running. Reminds me of the first time I used my sprayer, and the hand-gun hose got caught under the rear wheel. That wrecked the hand-gun, gun/hose bracket and some plastic pipe fittings. That's when I decided to glom on a retractable hose reel to my BORG sprayer.
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dcyrilc
Super Member
Yea, it sucks. But at least now I know to always tilt the mowing head verticle before pulling it all the way in.:laughing:
I'm just hoping that the spool can be repaired. If not, that's when it will really start to suck.
J_J
Super Star Member
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If you can find a good welder, I would take the spool out of the valve and let him build up the metal on the end, enough to bore a pin hole through it. and reconnect everything.
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dcyrilc
Super Member
Morning J J.
That's kind of what I was thinking. I'm working on getting someone lined up right now, but I still have to tear the valve apart to remove the spool. I won't do that until I have a chance to remove the mower from the 3PH.
Once I have the spool removed and off to be welded, we'll throw ideas back and forth until we have a solid plan on how to make the repair.
My basic thought at this point is:
1) clean thouroughly
2) weld and redrill if necessary
3) mill or lathe back to origional diameter.
3RRL
Super Member
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Yeah, that is a bummer Cyril ... so sorry to see that happen.
But JJ is right and your steps for repair are the right way to approach it.
BTW, you can probably find someone local to do it, but if not, I know someone in CA that can do it for sure.
Rob-
But JJ is right and your steps for repair are the right way to approach it.
BTW, you can probably find someone local to do it, but if not, I know someone in CA that can do it for sure.
Rob-
wvpolekat
Platinum Member
Man, that stinks. I used to know a guy in Austin, TX who did precision welding on prosthetic limbs and replacement joints. Basically TIG welding under a microscope. I am sure you an find someone like that around you that can fix it up for you.