my homebuilt tractor

[G.P.S.Investments]

It looks like a tree farmer style,but I would suggest to have 2 pivit points in middle like a tree farmer skidder.For that way you would have more stability and strenght,But I must agree a great idea :thumbsup: just another food for thought :drool:

 

[Renze]

It looks like a tree farmer style,but I would suggest to have 2 pivit points in middle like a tree farmer skidder.For that way you would have more stability and strenght,But I must agree a great idea :thumbsup: just another food for thought :drool:

Not to be nagging at the OP (bobcatfan) but i'm afraid you'll get hurt when this pivot point breaks under the stress of a loader: a chain is as strong as its weakest link: Your frame is held together in the middle by just two pieces of flatbar. (if the loader is capable of lifting your rear axle, i'm sure it WILL break)

The cheapest way to make a pivot point on a small articulated loader, is on a miniloader they build here locally: They use heavy steering ball joints from a truck: One fixed ball as a lower pivot, and a small arm with two ball joints about a foot above it: Then both axles are fixed to the chassis, so the pivot point also allows oscillation of the rear frame to make the axles follow the ground contour: The same functionality as your current artic joint.
The payloaders we build at work, the 11 and 13 ton models have two 70mm alloy steel pins, placed apart about two feet. There is a lot of bend stress in the design of pivot point you use, we only used it for a 6.5 ton model built way back in the early 80's.

I dont want to sound like smart ***, and i do respect your work, but i hope you oversee the stresses of this single pivot point, so you wont get hurt.

 

[bobcat fan]

well i got my tractor fired up today (with a new engine a 13 hp Honda) for the fist time and i found that i have some hydraulic issues the first was it didnt work the oil foamed and came out of the hoses i was trying to bleed the lines then my filter seal blew out what might have caused these problems?
the filter is not an actually hydraulic filter but a lube filter from a truck could this have any affect on the seal it seames to have to much pressure inside the filter.

 

[herringchoker]

Where in the hydraulic circuit is the filter? It should not be on the pressure side. Should also use a proper hydraulic filter.

 

[bobcat fan]

the filter is on the return side off the system i think that the oil is flowing from the pump at pressure through the cvalves and the pressure is building up in the filter and blowing the seal

 

[woodlandfarms]

My tractor is full hydraulic. The filter is located on the intake side between the tank and the pump.

Also, and more importantly, it is a huge filter. Not car sized but much, much bigger.

Foam probably means you are getting air in the system.

Finally, there is a high pressure filter in my system, between a pump and a distro box. It is rated for 25 gallons and 3000 PSI.

Carl

 

[bal0123]

just thought I would share this photo I took at a tractor show a couple of weeks ago. Its a homebuilt articulated lawn tractor. Replica of a Johndeere 7520. Pritty neat

 

[Johndeere3720]

This is a very interesting project. I am wondering, will it be a 2wd or 4wd?

 

[phatty70]

Looking great. As with any project...there will be bugs and failures. Good luck...be safe

 

[bobcat fan]

because the oil has air in does that mean that its stuffed and wont work no more i will go through and check my plumbing next week