Buying Advice 3320 with a 485 BH

[jimgerken]

If anybody is still following this thread looking for more info on that lift arm adjustment thing: On my 3720 with 375 backhoe, I needed to adjust the lift height to get the hoe mounted. Problem was, if adjusted far enough to get hoe on, the 3-point was right at the top of its stroke. So with it adjusted to lift the hoe far enough, sometimes you'd raise the 3-point with no attachment on it, or with the boxblade on it, and it would hit the end of its stroke and the relief valve would open, and the engine would groan. I got used to running it around with the lever slightly downward from its full-up position, but worried about what would happen if other people operated it and ran it around for half an hour in relief mode. So I'd adjust it back off a bit, and then the backhoe wouldn't lift high enough again. Eventually I resorted to removing the sliding adjustable brackets from the hoe frame, adding a layer of metal about an eigth inch thick to the underside hook feature, repainting and reinstalling. The additional layer of material made the hoe go higher with less 3-point lift, so now there is an adjustment point that lifts the hoe but does not make the lift arms hit their end of stroke condition. Other than this, the mounting and dismounting of the 375 hoe is fantastic compared to the 46 with subframe. And, despite the similar specs you quoted between the 375 and 46, I can tell you that the 375 is a much more powerful unit. I owned the 46 for a year or so and used it for trenching, and tree moving, and large tree stump removal. Once I moved to the 375, I realized how small and slow the 46 was. The 485 is probably also a big jump in performance.

 

[Rob-D]

If anybody is still following this thread looking for more info on that lift arm adjustment thing: On my 3720 with 375 backhoe, I needed to adjust the lift height to get the hoe mounted. Problem was, if adjusted far enough to get hoe on, the 3-point was right at the top of its stroke. So with it adjusted to lift the hoe far enough, sometimes you'd raise the 3-point with no attachment on it, or with the boxblade on it, and it would hit the end of its stroke and the relief valve would open, and the engine would groan. I got used to running it around with the lever slightly downward from its full-up position, but worried about what would happen if other people operated it and ran it around for half an hour in relief mode. So I'd adjust it back off a bit, and then the backhoe wouldn't lift high enough again. Eventually I resorted to removing the sliding adjustable brackets from the hoe frame, adding a layer of metal about an eigth inch thick to the underside hook feature, repainting and reinstalling. The additional layer of material made the hoe go higher with less 3-point lift, so now there is an adjustment point that lifts the hoe but does not make the lift arms hit their end of stroke condition. Other than this, the mounting and dismounting of the 375 hoe is fantastic compared to the 46 with subframe. And, despite the similar specs you quoted between the 375 and 46, I can tell you that the 375 is a much more powerful unit. I owned the 46 for a year or so and used it for trenching, and tree moving, and large tree stump removal. Once I moved to the 375, I realized how small and slow the 46 was. The 485 is probably also a big jump in performance.

Hi Jim,
Thanks for the heads up on the 3PH.
I haven't used the 375 so you're one up on me. I have used the 46 though and its ok but not super great. Let's say it gets the job done. I would have thought the 375 would have more juice than the 46 but the specs on the two hoes comes up the same:

http://www.deere.com/en_US/homeowne..._tractors/static/implements_access_zmags.html

Check pg.22 and you'll see the digging force shows the same for the 46 and 375 (2840 lbs). Not until you get the the 485 does it go up. Of course knowing the folks at Deere who haven't had a consistent spec since WW1 this data might not be correct!
My personal view is the 46 has no where near 2840 lbs digging force.
Rob

 

[jimgerken]

Rob, both sets of specs could be wrong, for all I know. After having owned and used each for a year (46 and 375), I would say that whatever the actual digging force is for the 46, the 375 has 50% more. It's night and day, but both are still very small backhoes. When I have a big stump, I just call my neighbor over with his full size Case TLB. Trenching, small tree moving, etc, those are rewarding jobs for small hoes.

 

[Rob-D]

You're probably right Jim. I'm thinking the 485 should be able to do an 18-22" tree but we'll see when I get it what it's made of. I got pretty good with the 46 by starting out about 2-3 feet and working in to the trunk but it was a loooong job!
Rob

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Rob, when you get your new toy be sure to post pics of the thumb. So far know one has had pics and JD only shows a drawing not an actual pic. I've told my dealer to call me as soon as they have on in. I'm going order one for my 448 and fab my on positioning bracket.

Matt

 

[Rob-D]

Hi Matt,

I'll post shots as soon as it comes in. The thumb was about 900 bucks more but everyone including my dealer said it's the way to go. According to him for Deere to give you a thumb option it must be a 2010 hoe with an 18" bucket. I personally haven't seen one myself or even a drawing of one.

Rob

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Hi Matt,

I'll post shots as soon as it comes in. The thumb was about 900 bucks more but everyone including my dealer said it's the way to go. According to him for Deere to give you a thumb option it must be a 2010 hoe with an 18" bucket. I personally haven't seen one myself or even a drawing of one.

Rob

He's correct but not due to the bucket. The 2010 485 has holes on the dipper to pin the arm of the thumb, to fix it's position. He may be refering to the teeth of the bucket an alignment of the thumbs teeths. But that's not too big of an issue. I've been waiting to add a thumb on for some time, but I really wanted a pin on thumb because of the stength and geometry. I've already talked to my dealer and looked at the pins. The pin for the thumb is the same just longer with a few more shims.

Matt

 

[AKfish]

Matt-they're the hot ticket! :thumbsup: You'll be amazed by the increased usefullness of your backhoe!

Pick and move, pick and stack, grab and yank...

I haven't looked at the details for the 485 thumb - so, I don't have any idea of the fixed angles that the thumb can be positioned at.

However, one key element that I was always on the lookout for while using the thumb - I was careful not to overpressure whatever object I was grabbing. The fixed shaft that positions the thumb is on the receiving end of the hydraulic force whenever you "pinch" a stump, etc. I was always a bit leery of bending or kinking that shaft (although, I used schedule 80 1-1/2 square tubing.) Never had a problem... but I never took it for granted that it would NEVER bend, either!

Lookin' forward to seeing your new setup when you get it installed.

AKfish

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Matt-they're the hot ticket! :thumbsup: You'll be amazed by the increased usefullness of your backhoe!

Pick and move, pick and stack, grab and yank...

I haven't looked at the details for the 485 thumb - so, I don't have any idea of the fixed angles that the thumb can be positioned at.

However, one key element that I was always on the lookout for while using the thumb - I was careful not to overpressure whatever object I was grabbing. The fixed shaft that positions the thumb is on the receiving end of the hydraulic force whenever you "pinch" a stump, etc. I was always a bit leery of bending or kinking that shaft (although, I used schedule 80 1-1/2 square tubing.) Never had a problem... but I never took it for granted that it would NEVER bend, either!

Lookin' forward to seeing your new setup when you get it installed.

AKfish

I'm going to use 2"x2" square tube, I'm thinking my design will be stronger than the factory setup. But I'll reserve judgement until I see a real one not an illustration. I've been planning on ordering the thumb since it was first announced. I've been toying with using the adjustable hitch for a trailer as my mount. Like this one, but I would add flat stock to it to distribute the stress. It will be welded by a pro also.

 

[AKfish]

I used a 1" stainless steel pin for the positioning arm, so the hitch base might be on the small side. Stainless to avoid rusting (PITA to attach/reattach) and pretty hurky to take abuse.

Was cautious with too thick a base plate as it could warp the dipper with the necessary heat to weld the plate to the dipper. Think it was all 3/8".

Might have to dig thru my old pics.

AKfish