20x20 Shed/mini barn with a loft

[rswyan]

If you decide to pour the floor yourself, give me a holler and I'll come help, just for the sake of the knowledge. It's something I've always wanted to understand how to do, and with a few thousand square feet of concrete floor to be poured over the next few years, I think I could save myself quite a bit if I knew how to do it myself.

Ummm ..... really ?

We're trying to get all the prep work done to get at least a partial floor poured this year before the snow flies. Have a good bit of outside work still to do (some tree removal, drainage, grading, etc.) .... so it probably won't be for at least another month or so ...

The barn is 3000+ sq. ft. (42' x 72'), was put up back in late '05 ....... we're looking at doing at least 1/3 of it initially (one of three bays) about a 24' x 42' area.

I'd be happy to provide an adventure for anyone who's lookin' to play in the mud ..... as well as being willing to reciprocate with my own time on your project in exchange ...... (seth - I'm over in Manchester/New Franklin - just north of Canal Fulton - probably about 15 - 20 minutes from you - need anything, drop me a PM)

 

[peterssj4034]

I put some siding up last night, and the ridge cap on over the weekend. I forgot to order the fascia and soffitt with my original order, and I pick those up today, to be installed this weekend. The siding will be stained with a semi-transparent cedar color (subject to change). I think a little darker stain will look good against the roof.

rswyan - I've coached at Northwest for 5 years, very familiar with your area. Thanks for the offer.

Seth

 

[MarkV]

Seth the shed is looking good. In snow country people have run into problems with snow build up making swing out doors hard to deal with. May not be an issue for you but I thought I would mention it if it hadn't been thought of.

MarkV

 

[rswyan]

rswyan - I've coached at Northwest for 5 years, very familiar with your area.

Ahhh ... my neighbor's wife is a teacher there, and his son is a building/maintenance engineer for the district ..... and I think the grandson is even working at for the district, cutting the grass as a summertime job.

Thanks for the offer.

You're quite welcome.

I have eaves, soffits, etc., that will be finished this weekend (hopefully). Some TBNers have used screens to keep out unwanted guests, so I will use that method on any problem areas.

Take it from me - you absolutely want to do this (ask me how I know ), it will be money well spent.

Cleary offered the option of installing "bird block" on the inside gap that leads to my soffit/overhang. I elected not to have them do it, thinking that given the time of year (winter) and that I would have the building completely enclosed fairly rapidly (that didn't happen), it would be a problem ....

I'm now looking at having to pull all the soffit (probably 250' lineal feet of it), clean it and then reinstall ....... because birds ..... and even worse, raccoons - have found their way up there and made it a wildlife hotel.

I tried to find a local source for the product to screen it off (hardware cloth was way to expensive and would require cutting) ...... Lowes used to carry it locally but doesn't anymore ..... I eventually ordered it off the internet from a hardware store in IN.

The product is a flat, thin expanded metal that comes in various widths (in a a roll) called Kwikmesh, from a company out of CA called Construction Metals Inc.:

Kwikmesh

My total cost to do the side and end walls was around $104 ..... money well spent.

All best to handle things before they become a problem if at all possible.

BTW, I think the color combo with the unfinished wood and the roofing metal looks great ..... I believe that metal is the same color we used on our barn :thumbsup:

 

[peterssj4034]

rswyan,

Thanks for the tip on the Quikmesh, I will certainly get some of this.

Seth

 

[bp fick]

Seth the shed is looking good. In snow country people have run into problems with snow build up making swing out doors hard to deal with. May not be an issue for you but I thought I would mention it if it hadn't been thought of.

MarkV

I have swing out doors on my mini barn. Yup. Point well taken. You do have to "allow" for frost heave. As for the snow, those doors get priority for shoveling. Since I have no way of having any other door, I do what I gotta do.

A slight approach ramp of say, 6"-12" of rise, over a span of 3 or 4 feet just about cures all ills, if you have the room.

 

[handirifle]

I like the project and admire your taking the bull by the horns.

I have a few questions about it though. My reasons are that I am building an 18 x 18 patio (actually spa cover) next to my workshop. Mine already has a slab poured (yesterday) with post anchors set in concrete, within the slab. There are 7 anchors, one on each corner, and one in the middle of three sides. The front opening is being left an 18' opening. No siding or walls, that leads to my actual question.

Looking at your header boards, it's hard to tell in the pics, but are they just nailed to the posts? There doesn't seem to be anything bracing UNDER the headers, to help them support the weight of the trusses and roof.

I am NOT a contractor, so maybe there is something there I do not understand. When I questioned some contractors about a header board size for my 18' span, to support my trusses, they (and one engineer) recommend min size to be 6x10, and braced underneath, as in a "T" brace on the top of the 6x6 post.

I figure building standards between CA and OH are different, but that is a lot of difference.

The second thing, is the door issue. have you considered 2, 6x10' hanging doors on a sliding rail? Those are probably easier to hang than the hinged doors, and need a LOT less clearance than a swing out door. I haven't priced the sliding door, but cannot be a huge difference.

 

[peterssj4034]

The headers are 2x12's that are nailed to the 6x6 posts. There are 2 headers, one on the outside and inside of the 6x6's. The inside posts are supported with metal ties on the ends, and 2x4 blocking underneath the headers. I inquired about bolting the headers, and was instructed that nailing with a galvanized spike would be sufficient. Each header is nailed into the corresponding post with 8, 3 and one half inch galvanized spikes.

As for the doors, my preference is swing out, as I have plenty of room, so that will not be an issue. I will build the doors, so I can change my mind up until the last minute as to how they will operate...that decision is down the road a little bit, as I have to finish the soffitt and fascia (delivered this morning finally), as well as the siding and loft flooring.

Seth

 

[handirifle]

Interesting on the header setup. Hmmmm I will have to talk to builders here and see if that is allowed here. Usually the truss has to sit on TOP of the wall whether it's a post wall or stud wall. much like the double row of 2x4's for the plate on a regular 2x4 stud wall. Our trusses HAVE to sit on top of these.


As for the doors, I was referring to less snow to clear in a big storm. I grew up in Ohio and can remember many times having to shovel snow away from the barn door to get a stall open. Once that snow has turned to ice it gets a lot harder to move, as I'm sure you're more than aware.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[peterssj4034]

Maybe I misunderstood your question...the trusses do sit on top of the headers, and are secured both by toenailing and with hurricane ties, etc. The trusses have a 12" overhang.