New to tractors ford 1700 question.

[BG4985]

JC- Sorry it took so long to get back to you, been busy with work projects
Cold reading is 12.45
Idle 1500rpm is 12.34
Mid 2000rpm is 12.36
2500rpm is 12.36
I also disconnected the battery with it running, which killed all the headlights/gauges instantly.

With it connected all the high/low & dash work fine. The largest yellow (one closest to the engine and the top) wire had a reading of 12.43 right at the Alt. The only other wire that i got any reading off of was the bottom of the pair that is on the lower outside of the Alt, it had a reading of 12.12

I printed up the other posts you linked earlier but wanted to check back with the above info. On the up side i did manage to get the bushhog primed up, now i just have to pick between the white or ford blue.

 

[JC-jetro]

JC- Sorry it took so long to get back to you, been busy with work projects
Cold reading is 12.45
Idle 1500rpm is 12.34
Mid 2000rpm is 12.36
2500rpm is 12.36
I also disconnected the battery with it running, which killed all the headlights/gauges instantly.

With it connected all the high/low & dash work fine. The largest yellow (one closest to the engine and the top) wire had a reading of 12.43 right at the Alt. The only other wire that i got any reading off of was the bottom of the pair that is on the lower outside of the Alt, it had a reading of 12.12

I printed up the other posts you linked earlier but wanted to check back with the above info. On the up side i did manage to get the bushhog primed up, now i just have to pick between the white or ford blue.

BG,

Below is to self note I had last year I measured voltages right after battery replacement. I had a dead cell in it.

After Battery change 11/1/09, put a trickle charger on, Regulator on the alternator works okay, charging @14.6 volts and 1500 rpm. Static voltage reading on the new battery 12.98 volts.

one of the guys had a question and couple of weeks ago I checked max charging voltage.Even @ 2500 rpm the voltage did not go beyond 14.6.

I think 12.4 is somewhat low of charging voltage. You might consider replacing your voltage regulator. I have not done it myself, but remember Soundguy saying you can pick one up from NAPA under $25.

JC,

Glad things are looking up

 

[BG4985]

Roger that on the voltage reg..... does the alt sound like its working to you then? I thought that someone had said that if the headlights/dashlights didnt work after disconnecting the battery on a running engine then the ALT was bad. Im guessing by your response though that this is not the case and its possibly just the voltage regulator which would not be allowing enough current back to the battery while its running?

One more question, is there any damage that is being done to the tractor or is it still safe to simple trickle charge the battery, start it and run it with the faulty regulator until i get it switched out? Thanks for your help

 

[old1500]

U can also get a good solid state voltage regulator off e-bay for a few bucks. Some of these things cross over to all manner of other vehicles and not just tractor specific.

Two cheap-n-dirty ways to check your alternator, other than with the meter as explained above.

With the tractor running, switch your key off and on and then off and on...etc. If the alternator is charging, you should hear a slight load coming onto the motor as you turn the switch from off to on. Or, again with the tractor running...you should be able to take a screwdriver or small wrench and hold it to the end of the alternator (be careful of the wires and the spinning belt) and feel the attraction (magnetism) of a working alternator.

This does not guarantee a bad alternator, because it needs to receive an exciter voltage from the regulator. But it will give you an indication that it is charging. If you change the regulator and then do this test indicating bad results...I would take the alternator in and have it tested anyway before I purchased a new one. I think you can almost buy a new one for the cost of having one rebuilt. That would be off e-bay again....I think a dealer wants $400-$500 for one of theirs.

To answer your other question....I don't think you will hurt a thing leaving the charger on it. I had a voltage regular go "over voltage" once charging at almost 17-volts. By the time I got it shut off, I had blown both headlights. They can go bad both ways!

 

[JC-jetro]

Roger that on the voltage reg..... does the alt sound like its working to you then? I thought that someone had said that if the headlights/dashlights didnt work after disconnecting the battery on a running engine then the ALT was bad. Im guessing by your response though that this is not the case and its possibly just the voltage regulator which would not be allowing enough current back to the battery while its running?

One more question, is there any damage that is being done to the tractor or is it still safe to simple trickle charge the battery, start it and run it with the faulty regulator until i get it switched out? Thanks for your help

Alternator should be checked for out put current and the type of current (AC or DC). Alternating current needs to be rectified (changed) to Direct current in order to change a DC battery. Changing AC to DC is done by a diode (sort of one way valve). some times the diode is external to the alternator and many are internal. Suggestion above does not verify if the diode is bad or good. There are tester that you can buy that detects bad diode on an alternator without dis assembly. I think you are okay for now. No problem to put a trickle charge with the battery leads still attached to. That's what I did all winter last year. Since diesel does not have ignition system, you will be be able to tun it without even battery but the problem is your gauges and safety will not work. I would not recommend it at all.

For the time being trickle charge will charge it enough to start it , run it and have enough juice for the gauges.... I would make sure I would not use head lights, tail light and things that consume much energy.

JC,

 

[BG4985]

35bucks delivered for the new reg...so ill let you know how it goes in a few days!

 

[zizzy]

i just purchased a 1700 with few hours on it.
i need to find a replacement flasher switch (this item is like a hens tooth)
any help on where to look

 

[JC-jetro]

i just purchased a 1700 with few hours on it.
i need to find a replacement flasher switch (this item is like a hens tooth)
any help on where to look

Congrats, well what a coincidence . I just happened to do the same. It is just an on/off switch. the connector has 3 prongs but 2 is used. I basically abandoned the old switch in place to cover the hole in the dash. There is is previously a hole drilled next to temp gauge that had a cover , took the cover off and used a good quality automotive switch under $5 and put it together. Could not be simpler. Pics below are self explanatory.

JC,

 

[zizzy]

Jettro
thanks for the information on type of switch.
i can do the mod you outlined with pix as well very nice and appreciated !
thot mabbe the switch had the timer for flasher in it but if just on/off that is great. doing all the lub changes to fluids to day thank you so much
de Zizzy

 

[old1500]

JC....while I have your attention. I know there are some other threads concerning this, but I like to "cross-thread".

This 1500 I have has the foot-lever on the rh side to engage the diffy lock. It's just like the little Kubota I had....but, when I got this tractor, I noticed the lever was flat on the floor board and would not move by hand. I got around to prying it up with a screwdriver and can now "work it" and hear a definite clunking sound when I move it up and down. The best I can tell from the drawings, this lever moves a shift fork which is (I think) attached to a clutch-gear in the diffy guts. I have been riding around with this thing in the down (engaged) position since I had it and have noticed no torn turf or anything that would lead me to think it has locked.

I can't move it for a few days, as I am installing a new steering sector shaft (I am a slow-poke mechanic). What surprises do you think I am in for when I finally roll it and see what that diffy lock lever really does.....or is not doing. It'd been all the way down for a long....long time.