Just wondering if anyone has been able to get a replacement gasket for the air cleaner oil bowl? Saw some mention of it in this thread but no resolution. I've been using an oring that is not quite thick enough and it leaks a bit. Obviously RTV wont work as I want to be able to change the oil in there...
New to tractors ford 1700 question.
- Thread starter BG4985
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JC-jetro
Elite Member
I have changed the oil in the bowl but just can't remember if I had a gasket there. RTV still is pretty good idea but you got to do it a bit differently. I take the bowl off, remove the oil, degrease the lips of the bowl, dry it out, put good bead of rtv appropriate with the application and let it cure completely over night. Then put it on like normal, it will only stick to the bowl and not to the top, seals pretty good and you can repeat as necessary. cured RTV would stay pliable and act perfectly like a formed gasket.
JC,
old1500
Silver Member
I don't have a gasket either and mine doesn't leak. It's a 1500, but it has the same breather as the 1700. This is not a SA remark.....are you sure it is not over-filled?
I am sure it wasn't overfilled, it has a max fill line on it. New Holland website shows a gasket there, but it is no longer available and does not have sizing info.
I was considering buying an oring splicing kit for around $40. More than I wanted to spend, and will likely end up collecting dust after one use. The RTV idea just seems messy although JCs description doesn't sound too bad...
Right now I am using a standard buna-N oring sized 350 (i think) and was thinking something in the 4xx (430?) range might work. Though it probably has a metric size I'm sure it won't matter as long as it squishes in there.
When I bought the tractor, the PO of several years had never maintained the air cleaner, other than to pull the bowl and dump out the rainwater before starting....
I was considering buying an oring splicing kit for around $40. More than I wanted to spend, and will likely end up collecting dust after one use. The RTV idea just seems messy although JCs description doesn't sound too bad...
Right now I am using a standard buna-N oring sized 350 (i think) and was thinking something in the 4xx (430?) range might work. Though it probably has a metric size I'm sure it won't matter as long as it squishes in there.
When I bought the tractor, the PO of several years had never maintained the air cleaner, other than to pull the bowl and dump out the rainwater before starting....
JC-jetro
Elite Member
If you're good at doing a caulk job with steady hand and patience you can make a good gasket. Once RTV blue is cured it will not at all be tacky to touch. it will stick the bowl and when you want can easily pull and peel it off. cured gasket will not stick to the top side at all.
Good luck,
JC,
Last edited:
jimmysisson
Veteran Member
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- 1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
Or take the bowl to a good local auto parts store, plead ignorant, and ask them to help find you the $1 o-ring.
Jim
Jim
Allee
Bronze Member
I closed the hood and a lose battery cable snapped the front off of the solenoid and fried a bunch of wires. I need to buy a new solenoid but don't know how to correct the wiring. Most of the wiring has been disconnected as I have no lights (front, back, brake) and I don't know how to reinstall them. I have a wiring diagram in my shop manual but don't know anything about wiring. I wish there was a wiring harness available with the different colored wires because if I do it they'll all be the same. What gage wire do I use? I notice on the diagram 2-3 different sizes but I don't know what to use. Should I call a mechanic and have him come out to do the work or can I do it myself?
JC-jetro
Elite Member
I'm just going to make a wild guess and say you're major wirng is still in tact, have you checked any of your fuses? do you know where they are? do you tale tell sign of burns on wiring harness? if you take the fuel tank off, pretty easy with removing two 10 mm nut then you have access to a lot of wiring. Look and sign of burn, smell of burnt insulator and such. That might tell you a lot. It will be difficult to redo the harness without basics of electrical knowledge. When you short of a circuit something got to give and most probable would be the fuses.
JC,
Allee
Bronze Member
When I remove the fuel tank as you have done its a web of wires everywhere. Yours looks so clean! Yes, I do know where the fuse box is and I'll check that. The wires coming off of the solenoid though are fried. The yellow insulation looks like it's been shrink wrapped. I bought some wire and connectors to replace it but I'm not certain what gauge I need. I bought 10 but think it may be 12. Another issue is my idiot lights. The alternator and oil pressure lights stay on while running and I can only keep a charge for a few days but most often it's dead the next day. I've replaced the alternator twice (I'm not a mechanic) but now think it's been my wiring or connections all along. And then, the glow plug coil in the dash has never worked and I've just had to guess if the plugs are hot enough for starting. That's okay for warm weather but the pits when it gets cold. Lastly, I bought a new spedometer cable but when I installed it it broke the needle in the dial, then the wire housing unraved and was became twisted at the block. If it weren't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Alee,
- Tae a pic of anything you do so you can reverse it. fried wiring harness still shows the same lay out and there will be tell tale sign as you go along.
- Take the solenoid wire, go to home depot, compare and contrast with stranded wire that they have and match. Might need to ask someone in their electrical dept. I think it might be 12 as the solenoid does not carry a lot of juice.
- You can verify solenoid operation directly with a 12 portable battery to see if ir makes.
- idiot light can be and should be individually inspected. oil is normally closed, and temperature is a variable resistance type. Key in on positions and the light should come on to show wiring is in tact. Turning engine on would open oil pressure.
-clutch neutral safety is normally open switch so when you press the clutch closes the switch and completes the starting circuit.
-with the switch off verify the voltage to glow plug, very simple.. no juice. With the key on glow you should read 12 volts give or take some. Ground =is negative and the bust bar going to glow plug with wire is positive. Yo do need a voltmeter to do that. A $3 HF cheesy voltmeter is good enough for your purposes.
- You did not install the wire on hour meter right. The square end of wire goes to a a gear in timing belt cover area that you apparently connected correctly, something was binding on the opposite end that caused the twisting and eventual damage. Next time connect the meter and see if you can turn it by hand or may be use a drill on the end and put the square in the chuck and slowly turn. Observe if the tach moves. You might have damaged your meter where it is binding.
By the way, I'm a card carrying member of " if it weren't for bad luck , would not have any luck at all", so I know what you are talking about but at least in my case most of it is self inflicted
and cure for it is perseverance.
- Tae a pic of anything you do so you can reverse it. fried wiring harness still shows the same lay out and there will be tell tale sign as you go along.
- Take the solenoid wire, go to home depot, compare and contrast with stranded wire that they have and match. Might need to ask someone in their electrical dept. I think it might be 12 as the solenoid does not carry a lot of juice.
- You can verify solenoid operation directly with a 12 portable battery to see if ir makes.
- idiot light can be and should be individually inspected. oil is normally closed, and temperature is a variable resistance type. Key in on positions and the light should come on to show wiring is in tact. Turning engine on would open oil pressure.
-clutch neutral safety is normally open switch so when you press the clutch closes the switch and completes the starting circuit.
-with the switch off verify the voltage to glow plug, very simple.. no juice. With the key on glow you should read 12 volts give or take some. Ground =is negative and the bust bar going to glow plug with wire is positive. Yo do need a voltmeter to do that. A $3 HF cheesy voltmeter is good enough for your purposes.
- You did not install the wire on hour meter right. The square end of wire goes to a a gear in timing belt cover area that you apparently connected correctly, something was binding on the opposite end that caused the twisting and eventual damage. Next time connect the meter and see if you can turn it by hand or may be use a drill on the end and put the square in the chuck and slowly turn. Observe if the tach moves. You might have damaged your meter where it is binding.
By the way, I'm a card carrying member of " if it weren't for bad luck , would not have any luck at all", so I know what you are talking about but at least in my case most of it is self inflicted
and cure for it is perseverance.