Help taking apart a tiller gear box
- Thread starter coaster
- Start date
- Views: 22264
I was able to get the hubs and the coupling off. The bearings on the side of the coupling look good. I was going to try and push the ring gear and shaft (beveled gear) through, but I thought it might be good to take the end cover off first. After doing that, I'm beginning to think that I should have started there - ugghhh. After taking the end cover off, I can clearly see the ring gear and it appears to be in good shape still. So... I think I'll try pulling the pinion shaft from the front side if that works. Maybe I have to pull the ring gear out anyway to get to that - not sure. If the pinion shaft does not pull from the front, that's my only option. The diagram shows the pinion shaft from the rear of the box, so maybe that's the way it goes.
I'll update with a final post when all done (if I ever get there). For now, I'm good - thanks to you guys for all the help.
I'll update with a final post when all done (if I ever get there). For now, I'm good - thanks to you guys for all the help.
Clytle, yep I did have to remove the ring gear - was able to tap that out without damaging the bearings. I was not as lucky though removing the pinion shaft (name?). As soon as I removed the ring gear and turned the box upside down, 8 teeth fell out - came right off the pinion shaft. The pinion shaft is 7 1/4" long. All said, it appears that I'll need the following parts: pinion shaft, gaskets for end cover and coupling and the bearing that goes on the end of the shaft inside the gear box. The ring gear has 27 teeth whereas the pinion shaft had 8 teeth.
I think Grut mentioned that maybe you can get the bearings cheaper elsewhere.
Again, thanks for all the info - you guys have been a big help. Attaching some other pics just for info:
I think Grut mentioned that maybe you can get the bearings cheaper elsewhere.
Again, thanks for all the info - you guys have been a big help. Attaching some other pics just for info:
Attachments
Glad to hear all is tore apa.
Hey I bet gorrilla glue might hold those teeth on that bald shaft for ya--hahah
wow you said you hit something--man that takes alot of force to remove those so neatly!!
ya if you could find a nice used tiller that was babied that may be the way to go considering the parts cost.
Ya the side load bearing at the coupler I think was the one which could be replaced with just a stadard bearing of the same size according to "Pointers on rebuilding a BCS tiller gearbox" in this section
Hey I bet gorrilla glue might hold those teeth on that bald shaft for ya--hahah
wow you said you hit something--man that takes alot of force to remove those so neatly!!
ya if you could find a nice used tiller that was babied that may be the way to go considering the parts cost.
Ya the side load bearing at the coupler I think was the one which could be replaced with just a stadard bearing of the same size according to "Pointers on rebuilding a BCS tiller gearbox" in this section
Last edited:
Thanks, Grut. You know, I was just thinking the same thing. It might be worth a shot to look for a used one and have the other stuff for parts. It might be worth it just considering the time spent (and to be spent) and the cost of the parts.
Yeah, the advertisement says that these things are pretty much unbreakable - I guess not. It was just a portion of my backyard that I'm tilling to reseed - it is pretty rocky ground, but I thought the BCS would not have too much of a problem with it. It was doing pretty good until that point. Makes me wonder if all the teeth went down all at once or if some were already in bad shape. The oil inside the gear box looked pretty good. The gaskets had pretty much dissolved away to nothing though. It is very old system though. I don't even have a date on the 715 itself, but it's got to be at least 25 to 30 years old. I paid $500.00 for it and a friend of mine swore that it was a steal. Looking at the prices of new ones, I think he's right. I should probably post a pic of the 715
Yeah, the advertisement says that these things are pretty much unbreakable - I guess not. It was just a portion of my backyard that I'm tilling to reseed - it is pretty rocky ground, but I thought the BCS would not have too much of a problem with it. It was doing pretty good until that point. Makes me wonder if all the teeth went down all at once or if some were already in bad shape. The oil inside the gear box looked pretty good. The gaskets had pretty much dissolved away to nothing though. It is very old system though. I don't even have a date on the 715 itself, but it's got to be at least 25 to 30 years old. I paid $500.00 for it and a friend of mine swore that it was a steal. Looking at the prices of new ones, I think he's right. I should probably post a pic of the 715
farmerboybill
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2008
- Messages
- 782
- Location
- Southwestern Wisconsin
- Tractor
- BCS 850 diesel and 735 diesel
Hey Coaster,
Looks like I'm late to the party. I'm really shocked that shaft could be damaged like that. Were you tilling a parking lot? You have a newer style round-top tiller since it's a 3 dog PTO, making it even more surprising.
You'll find that shaft is well over $100. A new 20 inch tiller box is $500. By the time you buy all the necessary parts, you may as well pay the extra money and buy the new box. As others suggested, you could find a used box in time, but it could be awhile. Anyway you got a good buy. The tractor alone is worth $500.
Bill in WI
Looks like I'm late to the party. I'm really shocked that shaft could be damaged like that. Were you tilling a parking lot?
You have a newer style round-top tiller since it's a 3 dog PTO, making it even more surprising.You'll find that shaft is well over $100. A new 20 inch tiller box is $500. By the time you buy all the necessary parts, you may as well pay the extra money and buy the new box. As others suggested, you could find a used box in time, but it could be awhile. Anyway you got a good buy. The tractor alone is worth $500.
Bill in WI
I'm wondering if the pinion shaft bearing race broke and first got between the ring and pinion gears, that would explain tearing the teeth off like that. I honestly thought that those gearboxes are strong enough to stop the engine cold. Is that a 5 or 8 hp motor? Either way, I think that is the same gearbox as the 30" tiller that Earthtools sells with 11 hp diesels. Our 715 ate a 1" steel pipe and stopped it cold, and it had an 11 hp Briggs on it.
Are the teeth wore real thin?
Really glad that you have that PTO adapter on there, I was worried for a minute that it was the 715 we sold this spring( to a guy in Virginia, but for more money) after I had the tiller gearbox apart to replaced the seals. The one we sold was older and the tractor had a spline PTO on it. Felt real bad for a minute.
Are the teeth wore real thin?
Really glad that you have that PTO adapter on there, I was worried for a minute that it was the 715 we sold this spring( to a guy in Virginia, but for more money) after I had the tiller gearbox apart to replaced the seals. The one we sold was older and the tractor had a spline PTO on it. Felt real bad for a minute.
Farmerboy, yeah you would think that I was tilling a parking lot, wouldn't you? At times, I felt like I was, but no it was just regular old hard rocky ground - good old VA clay.
Clytle, no worries. I know the guy I bought mine from. I think he took decent care of it. It's just one of those freak things.
To answer your questions though: it has an 8 hp Kohler engine. No, the teeth were really not worn thin at all - they were just separated from the pinion shaft - all of them. Hard to believe, isn't it. The tiller attachment is 26"
Clytle, no worries. I know the guy I bought mine from. I think he took decent care of it. It's just one of those freak things.
To answer your questions though: it has an 8 hp Kohler engine. No, the teeth were really not worn thin at all - they were just separated from the pinion shaft - all of them. Hard to believe, isn't it. The tiller attachment is 26"