How steep is too steep (and how do I know)?

[bc realtor]

Jsust a thought to those whom are fearless . have a look at this. http://www.acamerica.com/backend/upload/carraro/web_files/32275.pdf

 

[dcyrilc]

Jsust a thought to those whom are fearless . have a look at this. http://www.acamerica.com/backend/upload/carraro/web_files/32275.pdf

The biggest thing I fear about that is the price.:laughing:

 

[lilranch2001]

Kinda cool, but I agree, I bet the price is up there, and it is strange, it gives no description of attachment capabilities

 

[woodlandfarms]

I was going to buy an Antonio until I got sticker shock. I am betting that machine sits around 55K and maybe as much as 75 given the machine I looked at them felt like 25K and was 47...

I have a machine rated at 45 degrees. I mow 35 max. It is friggin steep. scary scary scary. If you get off the tractor you just slide down the hill..

Not sure how guys do 45 on my tractor but I guess they do.

Also, I don't see an angle rating on the Antonio. Any ideas?

 

[dcyrilc]

Kinda cool, but I agree, I bet the price is up there, and it is strange, it gives no description of attachment capabilities

5291 lbs for the 3PH and 87 engine HP. I would guess around 75HP PTO. I would also feel pretty comfortable guessing Cat2.

 

[beemerphile]

A friend of mine had a nice AC TRH for sale for a great price and I almost bought it. What a beautiful machine it is and for hilly property like mine it would be a great machine. Even when bought for a great price in as-new condition, there were still a couple of issues that I had with it:

1) There are no Antonio Carraro dealers in Georgia
2) Although there are some loaders made for them, they are not strong.

The hill capability, push-pull set-up, articulation, oscillation, reversible operator position, etc, are world class. But if you have heavy loader work to do or it quits going buggida-buggida, well not so fun.

 

[bc realtor]

I have had a TTR4400 for over a year now and I will tell you it is far beyond the cababilities of any thing else i have ever driven on a slope. I get uneasy at about 35 degrees and have mowed around 40-42 with a bush hog.The best thing is the boom arm mower capabilities and the width make it great for working around hedges in tight areas ect. They are a cut with the capabilities of a municipal tractor. As for maintanence I do most of it myself and my local kubota dealer can handle anything that I can't. The tractor came with the mechanics manual.On my 2300lbs machine I can handle a 1400 lbs impliment and still be balanced for slopes.

 

[SkyPup]

Jsust a thought to those whom are fearless . have a look at this. http://www.acamerica.com/backend/upload/carraro/web_files/32275.pdf

WOW - what an awesome rig!!!

 

[flusher]

Thanks for all the advice. The problem with getting a tilt meter is that the numbers won't mean anything to me. What's the number where I should stop and back up the hill?

I have one of those little angle finder gizmos for carpentry. I held it at arms length and lined it up with the slope on the steepest part and it said 30 degrees. I took a picture of the steepest parts and drew in the horizontal and the slope as best I could. Would you mow this sideways?

30 deg is pretty sporty. I wouldn't try to mow sideways on that type of slope unless my tractor was specifically set up for that kind of work. For example my 1964 Massey Ferguson 135 diesel is set up to squat low for orchard work.



Those are 18.4 x 16 (18" wide, 16" rim diameter) rears loaded with water (no need for antifreeze here in the North Sac Valley) and the front axle spindles are shorter than normal so the tractor sets level with those 16" rims. The rear track width is 83" and the centerline of the rear axle is 20" above grade. So the squat ratio is 83/20=4.15. Compare that to my big tractor--a Mahindra 5525 with 28" dia rear rims--rear track width 71", height of rear axle 25", squat ratio 2.84.

As others have said, adjust your rears to maximize the track width. If you're still leery, consider a dually rear tire setup. Otherwise mow those slopes with a weed whacker and save yourself a trip to the ER or worse. All you need is for one of the downslope wheels to drop into a 6" deep depression while you're mowing a slope like yours sideways to roll your tractor.

 

[beppington]

Just thought a picture might help. If the pucker factor gets to much don't do it. Always use a seat belt regardless and if you do go over keep your arms and legs within the tractor area. This would not be a time to flail around.:thumbsup:

Those are of course without a grown man sitting atop it, another what 150 to 300 pounds of top-heavy-ness.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Occasionally, you come across a slope that is better-off planted in trees or shrubs than in something you have to mow. If mowing the slopes you pictured makes you overly fearful for your life, you might consider reforestation of the steepest parts.
BOB

 

[Dargo]

I have some 'steep' slopes on my property and then I have some 'extreme' slopes. I consider the slopes 'extreme' when you cannot climb them with hiking boots and your hands; even pulling out all the grass or shrubs you can get a hold of. Those slopes I leave alone.

The 'steep' slopes I have are more than quite the challenge for any motorcycle (without a 5' extended rear swing arm) or ATV. I've only graded them with an old (borrowed) D9 that had a 8' stinger on the rear I could stab in the ground to slow my progress while pushing dirt down the slope. The seat belt hurts after a while and I have my feet on the dash when going down those hills. If the ground conditions are right, I can back up those slopes with a 8' rotary cutter out the back and both the front and rear axles locked in 4X4 and the bucket out front just in case.

There are too many factors that go into play when deciding the exact angle. If I have to make turns, less of a slope. If there are stumps or rocks, less of a slope. If there are ruts in the slope, less of a slope. I've gone over several times in equipment I didn't own but was paid to work. Sometimes it's surprising how far you can push things and other times one side slides, you get sideways, and you wonder why you even tried as you flip down the hill. If in question (especially if it's your equipment), don't try it if your gut says "too steep".

 

[rd_macgregor]

Some folks think that since they now have 4WD, they can go anywhere. Some hills are just too steep, soft, bumpy or whatever...also, see what happens when you get sideways on the hill:

YouTube - Formula Offroad Insane Crash

BOB

 

[wombat]

Bump.

Hey folks.

I've been here before on the Yanmar pages.

I have moved back south in Australia from flat land in Queensland to hill country west of Melbourne.

My little Yanmar YM2000 just doesn't cut it out here on the hills.

I am in the middle of buying a 1994 Antonio Carraro Tigre 4800 for slashing and general farm work [no cultivation].

I am wondering what your views are on these tractors.

They seem very specialised.
Expensive but you almost never see them for sale second hand over here in Oz.
Seems like they either stay on the property when/if it is sold or the neighbore buys them.

W










bump

 

[dennis52]

Just thought a picture might help. If the pucker factor gets to much don't do it. Always use a seat belt regardless and if you do go over keep your arms and legs within the tractor area. This would not be a time to flail around.:thumbsup:

The picture with 43% certainly looks like what I have been slashing.

The only other advice I could give is don't do it when it's wet or soft. Brakes and 4WD won't stop you sliding. Always go slowly, up and down.

My Kubota B7100 has tyre ballast and wheels out wide.

However I just got a new Kioti DS4510HS and the dealer suggested to first try it on the slopes without ballast and widened wheels.

I have, with slasher and loader on, and found the Kioti very stable.

I have heard it suggested that tyre ballast is more of value for traction rather than slope stability. Any thoughts?

Any comments on preference for gear or HST on steep country?

 

[RoyJackson]

However I just got a new Kioti DS4510HS and the dealer suggested to first try it on the slopes without ballast and widened wheels.

I have, with slasher and loader on, and found the Kioti very stable.

I have heard it suggested that tyre ballast is more of value for traction rather than slope stability. Any thoughts?

I'm only going to comment on the traction/stability aspect.

I've had three tractors and all have had filled tires. Although they probably aid in traction (to a limited degree) and keeping the rear tires on the ground when using the loader, traction is really aided by adding adequate ballast to your 3PH.
Filled tires really help in stability. That weights adds inertia (resistance) to the tire raising off the ground when traveling across a slope. There is less "bounce" to those rear tires too.

If you feel your Kioti is stable without filled tires...well, your choice. However, I strongly encourage anyone with a tractor to fill their rear tires.

 

[k0ua]

The picture with 43% certainly looks like what I have been slashing.

The only other advice I could give is don't do it when it's wet or soft. Brakes and 4WD won't stop you sliding. Always go slowly, up and down.

My Kubota B7100 has tyre ballast and wheels out wide.

However I just got a new Kioti DS4510HS and the dealer suggested to first try it on the slopes without ballast and widened wheels.

I have, with slasher and loader on, and found the Kioti very stable.

I have heard it suggested that tyre ballast is more of value for traction rather than slope stability. Any thoughts?

Any comments on preference for gear or HST on steep country?

The loaded tires help when traveling sideways on steep hills. I have tried it both ways, with and without loaded tires. Loaded tires are better when hitting depressions and bumps. Also had a gear tractor and a HST tractor. HST wins hands down for traversing hills. stopping, starting, and crawling over rocks, all instances are better with the HST.

James K0UA

 

[955Lincoln]

Bump.

Hey folks.

I've been here before on the Yanmar pages.

I have moved back south in Australia from flat land in Queensland to hill country west of Melbourne.

My little Yanmar YM2000 just doesn't cut it out here on the hills.

I am in the middle of buying a 1994 Antonio Carraro Tigre 4800 for slashing and general farm work [no cultivation].

I am wondering what your views are on these tractors.

They seem very specialised.
Expensive but you almost never see them for sale second hand over here in Oz.
Seems like they either stay on the property when/if it is sold or the neighbore buys them.

W

bump

Not the same model as you are looking at but I absolutely love this tractor. Yours might even do steeper slopes than mine although I don't know my limits yet. It is supposed to slide before tipping but I hope I never get the chance to test that theory. I call it my quad on steroids as it will go pretty much anywhere on my hilly property.

The only thing I don't like about it is getting in and out because they strive to make this tractor compact to the point of being ridiculous. Sometimes I think there is an Italian engineer with a warped sense of humor sitting at his desk snickering with thoughts of people doing face plants. If you wear shorts there is a lever carefully placed to go up your pant leg. Long pants? No problem, another special lever for them. The floor boards are designed to wedge your work boot just as your weight is too far forward to recover from You do get used to it though and it would be much better without a cab.

They are pretty rare here also. I found an inexpensive used one clear across the country and gladly paid the reasonable price of $1000 to get it delivered. Part availability is very good and there is a super nice dealer not too far from me.

 

[slowzuki]

I've had both filled and unfilled tires. Loaded tires ride much worse doing field work and on the road, some radials even recommend against it. I've used my machines on some hills, the worst being mowing hay on a side hill I have where the uphill tire starts lifting off going over bumps.

The problem with sidehills is the bumps, on a smooth side hill with your tires set out wide, the tractor will tend to slide before it rolls. Add bumps and it will roll on a much gentler slope. Locally the guys with really bad hills add duals on the rear before working and will try to go up down as much as possible. They will work ground that I wouldn't want to walk up.

 

[dcyrilc]

I've had both filled and unfilled tires. Loaded tires ride much worse doing field work and on the road, some radials even recommend against it. I've used my machines on some hills, the worst being mowing hay on a side hill I have where the uphill tire starts lifting off going over bumps.

The problem with sidehills is the bumps, on a smooth side hill with your tires set out wide, the tractor will tend to slide before it rolls. Add bumps and it will roll on a much gentler slope. Locally the guys with really bad hills add duals on the rear before working and will try to go up down as much as possible. They will work ground that I wouldn't want to walk up.

My tractor came with duels when I got it. I put them on for the first time last fall and can tell you that there is no way to describe just how much difference it makes. Night and Day. Doesn't feel like it's even the same tractor. I'll vote for duels for stability any day of the week.:thumbsup: