How would you do this roof?

[MarkV]

MarkV

Nice looking setup there. I have given the rafters and collar ties some serious thought lately. You can even adjust them a bit higher from what I have read, anyway. Is your stained? Was that a spray on or brush on finish? If brush on, that would be a LOT of upkeep.

Yes I used a stain on our porch. We sprayed an oil base stain from an airless sprayer. As far as upkeep, I have never restained and the screen porch was first done 9 years ago. I do pressure wash once a year. This is a covered area which sounds like you are planning. I don't have a good photo but this may give you an idea of how it looks from the outside.

MarkV

 

[Johno Geo]

If you have Engineered trusses with no side walls, I trust you live in a mild climate.
If cost is a factor, and you will not insulate , I would fasten 2x4 perlins perpendicular to the top member of the trusses.
Then screw metal roofing to the perlins.
I just had a pole barn constructed in NW Indiana,
This seems like substantial construction for the intended purpose.
My purpose was an equipment storage building.

Johno Geo

 

[handirifle]

Ok I guess the onus is on us now. We'll decide on one of these designs, and when it gets going I will try to take pics and post the progress.

This WILL be painted underneath, so the std truss idea isn't a real big deal. I never planned on staining because the stain grade lumber will put this project way over budget.

 

[MarkV]

This WILL be painted underneath, so the std truss idea isn't a real big deal. I never planned on staining because the stain grade lumber will put this project way over budget.

Just so we are are on the same page. There is no stain grade lumber in what I did. It is a mix of standard framing lumber, pressure treated lumber and T-111 4x8' panels. I let it sit for a couple of months to let the PT lumber dry somewhat and sprayed it with an oil base stain. I did spray and brush it in, back brushing, to work it into the textured T-111.

MarkV

 

[dcyrilc]

handirifle,

The upper trusses on my barn are an 18 foot clear span. Singles on the ends and doubles on the center posts (one attached to each side of the posts). These are engineered trusses. The third pic shows the taller post in the center to provide the lateral support. I set my posts tall and trimmed them to length after the trusses were set.

 

[handirifle]

I see what you mean about the long posts but I have no idea how that could work on this setup. I understand about the lateral bracing, as well, since it is that way on my shop trusses.

I may have to go with a different truss design, one more like the semi cathederal ceiling. Has anyone here ever had the open truss design I am thinking of, and using X bracing? Not sure if that's the correct term, but thinking if a brace was run, say, from the bottom of the front truss, to the peak of the center truss, and vice versa. The same for the center to rear truss. Would that work?

 

[flusher]

How about an Japanese look--like this pergola I finished last month for my bonsai garden. It's a 10' x 10' Dutch hip roof with a Japanese-style ridge board. Not too difficult to build--I did it myself and I'm 68 years old.



You can add cedar shingles to make it a gazebo.
Add a roof and walls it becomes a Japanese tea house.

Have fun.

 

[LD1]

I see what you mean about the long posts but I have no idea how that could work on this setup. Just make your center post in the rear extend all the way to the peak of the truss.

I may have to go with a different truss design, one more like the semi cathederal ceiling. Has anyone here ever had the open truss design I am thinking of, and using X bracing? Not sure if that's the correct term, but thinking if a brace was run, say, from the bottom of the front truss, to the peak of the center truss, and vice versa. The same for the center to rear truss. Would that work?Yes. x-bracing will give the roof lateral support as well if you do it between all three trusses. (so you will have 2 x's.) but since you mentioned you wanted an open truss design, I did not mention bracing this way as it would just "clutter" your open design. Extending the rear post would solve this.

I'll see if I can find some pics to give you some ideas.

 

[LD1]

A google images search turned this up Google Image Result for http://www.jaragoskyconstruction.com/070120097.jpg

The appears to be what you are wanting. Or at least what I envision you are wanting only without the walls. As you can see, the center post extends all the way to the peak.

 

[Kays Supply]

The last post got me to thinking. We did a house years ago that had the truss system like he shows but they didn't use the cross member 2x4s. They put 2x4 tongue and groove across the trusses leaving the wood showing for a ceiling. They then put a buildup roof insulation on because it was for a house.That would give you the exposed look you descibed and might be strong enough for the load.