18x24 Equipment Pole Building question...

[Mousefield]

Mousefield, would that be the 2x10's with purlins on edge, or the 2x8 on 4' centers, that you say would be good? That's one thing that I like about the steel, is that the snow will just slide off...

Snow does tend to slide off steel roofs but sometimes you need to help it along. I have seen homes with steel roofs and have several feet of snow on them. I did add to my last post that I would look at going with 2 X 10 if the rafters are 4ft apart then putting 2 X 4 on edge for the sheet metal. Most steel roofs that I have seen use 1 X4 across the rafters. If I was building it I would look at more rafters and then 1 X4. I don't have any pics off hand to show you. I think you are trying to have a strong roof but not sure if the 2 X 4 on edge is the way to go. I'm sure others will correct me if I'm wrong. :laughing:

 

[tommu56]

I'm not sure were you are at but I had a Amish guy put up my 20 x 24 with concrete floor for $7,000 north central pa.

Trusses are on 4' centers 6x6 laminated post on 8'centers 1' vented soffit and over hang 7' ohd 1 36" man door, about a 6\12 pitch roof and 10 ft side walls
done in 3 days

I priced all the material for dyi but they did it with labor for about $500.00 over just my material prices.

tom

 

[Storm56]

I appreciate all the info. I was basing my thoughts of going with 8' rafter spacing on some other threads i have read here, and also on the specs i read stating that a 2x4 on edge can span up to 9' with a 25lb snow load?

Also, I forgot to mention that I am planning on using rough cut Hemlock from the Amish, so all the lumber will be "true" dimensions (a 2x4 will really be 2" x 4").

@Storm56: What you say makes sense. I'm assuming you based this on using 2x6's?

@Kennyd: Yes, I have priced trusses at between $450 and $500, but i haven't decided on how i am going to build the trusses so I don't know the actual costs for building rafters.

Also, if I were to go every 4' with the rafters, what size 2x should I use between the posts that the rafter will rest on?

Thanks again

Yes, my comments were based on 2x6 rafters. Also based on your 8 foot spacing between poles a 2x10 should do the trick for your headers.

Do not forget to use double galvanized nails for anything fastened to the poles. The new pressure treatment will eat regular nails.

I also put an extra board under the headers down to the first purlin. Gives extra support to the headers and you usually have some scrap pieces anyway so it does not usually cost any extra other than time and a couple of nails.

 

[Super77Guy]

I'm not sure were you are at but I had a Amish guy put up my 20 x 24 with concrete floor for $7,000 north central pa.

Trusses are on 4' centers 6x6 laminated post on 8'centers 1' vented soffit and over hang 7' ohd 1 36" man door, about a 6\12 pitch roof and 10 ft side walls
done in 3 days

I priced all the material for dyi but they did it with labor for about $500.00 over just my material prices.

tom

I'm assuming the 6x6 laminated posts are made from 2x6's? After reading many posts on this site about doing posts that way, I was thinking about doing that but I wasn't able to find anyone who carried "below grade" PT 2x6's. Right now, since I'm buying most everything from the Amish (lumber, steel), it looks like I should be coming in at under $1500. I'll have a better idea once I get prices on the 2x8's and 2x10's.

 

[Super77Guy]

Yes, my comments were based on 2x6 rafters. Also based on your 8 foot spacing between poles a 2x10 should do the trick for your headers.

Do not forget to use double galvanized nails for anything fastened to the poles. The new pressure treatment will eat regular nails.

I also put an extra board under the headers down to the first purlin. Gives extra support to the headers and you usually have some scrap pieces anyway so it does not usually cost any extra other than time and a couple of nails.

Thanks for the info on the galvanized nails and the extra board under the header! I didn't know the PT would do that.

 

[tommu56]

I'm assuming the 6x6 laminated posts are made from 2x6's? After reading many posts on this site about doing posts that way, I was thinking about doing that but I wasn't able to find anyone who carried "below grade" PT 2x6's. Right now, since I'm buying most everything from the Amish (lumber, steel), it looks like I should be coming in at under $1500. I'll have a better idea once I get prices on the 2x8's and 2x10's.

Check with your steel guy for a reference they will have the connections to get them
These were factory made not on site

 

[nebraskasparks]

Just finished the metal "tractor shed". 4/12 pitch, 10' header height, went 4' on center with trusses because we usually get a snow dump versus continual accumulation and it's usually a wet heavy snow. 6x6 treated posts. 2x4 purlins on side.
Previous shed was 8 foot on center with 2x4 rafters that were 24' long....it sagged in the middle

 

[kennyd]

I priced all the material for dyi but they did it with labor for about $500.00 over just my material prices.

tom

That's the same experience I had. I almost could not build it for what they charged me, and it was done in a week! Pictures in my Picasa link below.

 

[MikeInEburg]

Another thing to consider is - on the open side of shed, using a heavier header and having fewer posts. I suggest this because posts limit access - sometimes more than you realize.
Mike

 

[Super77Guy]

Just finished the metal "tractor shed". 4/12 pitch, 10' header height, went 4' on center with trusses because we usually get a snow dump versus continual accumulation and it's usually a wet heavy snow. 6x6 treated posts. 2x4 purlins on side.
Previous shed was 8 foot on center with 2x4 rafters that were 24' long....it sagged in the middle

Do you have any pics you could post?