Chilly807
Elite Member
The curve in the feather helps to get under then back up clear of snow and mud.
Sean
Logistics of firewood hauling and splitting?
- Thread starter Verticaltrx
- Start date
- Views: 138489
The curve in the feather helps to get under then back up clear of snow and mud.
Sean
jpm
Platinum Member
my choker chains have a G or C cast shaped end that only lets one side of the chain go thru ie; | or - not +
SpringHollow
Elite Member
jimmysisson
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2005
- Messages
- 2,358
- Location
- W.Mass
- Tractor
- 1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
My woodlot is 3/4 mile uphill from house on a road I don't want to scuff up from skidding. I have been changing methods also for decades.
Newest version I like. I have an old beater skidding winch (I'm getting to be in that condition myself). Cut trees in 10' lengths (stove takes 20"). Load logs with grapple onto modified bobcat trailer, stack or windrow brush with grapple. Bring trailer to shed area, unload with grapple, stack on each other for bucking. Buck and roll chunks to splitter, which has a lift. Split and toss into pile. Invite offspring to stack new chunks and load last year's pile into shed.
The trailer is the improvement here, along with the grapple. I used to haul the splitter into the woods and bring stove lengths down, but there's too much handling. Vertical: If your woodlot permits, your new trailer might be the thing that makes a working system for you. You can pull a lot with an NAA, just make sure the tongue is loaded heavy.
Jim
Newest version I like. I have an old beater skidding winch (I'm getting to be in that condition myself). Cut trees in 10' lengths (stove takes 20"). Load logs with grapple onto modified bobcat trailer, stack or windrow brush with grapple. Bring trailer to shed area, unload with grapple, stack on each other for bucking. Buck and roll chunks to splitter, which has a lift. Split and toss into pile. Invite offspring to stack new chunks and load last year's pile into shed.
The trailer is the improvement here, along with the grapple. I used to haul the splitter into the woods and bring stove lengths down, but there's too much handling. Vertical: If your woodlot permits, your new trailer might be the thing that makes a working system for you. You can pull a lot with an NAA, just make sure the tongue is loaded heavy.
Jim
Attachments
Just got done pile'n up the 2012 heat and I'm sittin' here giving my arthritic knees a break. Our wood supply is from 10 acres adjacent to our home. I scout the woods for a suitable mix of poplar (about 60%) softwood (10%) and hardwood, the remainder.
Then suitable trees are selected based on death, disease, or other reasons. The trees are cut down and bucked in the woods. If chips are needed for mulch or compost they are chipped with the chipper attachment of my Ingersoll. If not they are piled in the woods for wildlife.
The rounds are then taken back to the house with the 4 wheeler and garden cart and then split with the Ingersoll splitter. Then the wood is stacked outside for at least a year, preferably two, and then brought into the barn/garage via wheelbarrow.
We only burn about three cord. We have a small home and this supplies about 98% of our heating needs. If it's real cold in the morning we'll kick the furnace on and then light the wood stove. Sometimes if it's real cold at night, below 10 degrees, the furnace might kick on once before I get up at about 5:00 to light the stove. Works for us.
Then suitable trees are selected based on death, disease, or other reasons. The trees are cut down and bucked in the woods. If chips are needed for mulch or compost they are chipped with the chipper attachment of my Ingersoll. If not they are piled in the woods for wildlife.
The rounds are then taken back to the house with the 4 wheeler and garden cart and then split with the Ingersoll splitter. Then the wood is stacked outside for at least a year, preferably two, and then brought into the barn/garage via wheelbarrow.
We only burn about three cord. We have a small home and this supplies about 98% of our heating needs. If it's real cold in the morning we'll kick the furnace on and then light the wood stove. Sometimes if it's real cold at night, below 10 degrees, the furnace might kick on once before I get up at about 5:00 to light the stove. Works for us.
Dead Horse
Platinum Member
I am using a grade 120, 1/2 inch chain choker on my skidding winch.........
(The one on the far right in the picture) the other ones are various sizes and strengths.
That particular unit is heavy stuff, but man will it haul a MONSTER log. (in theory it is as strong as the winch at 18,000# work rate, 36,000# test strength, 71,000# break strength. And the square chain shape has never let go of a log. Makes multiple log skids via a single pull, a cinch (literally
)
(The one on the far right in the picture) the other ones are various sizes and strengths.
That particular unit is heavy stuff, but man will it haul a MONSTER log. (in theory it is as strong as the winch at 18,000# work rate, 36,000# test strength, 71,000# break strength. And the square chain shape has never let go of a log. Makes multiple log skids via a single pull, a cinch (literally
)Attachments
Last edited:
Dr_Zinj
Veteran Member
I'm like Pushing_Tin.
I drop the tree and cut to fireplace lengths on the site. Load the rounds and transport back to the house where I then split and stack.
Usually I look for blowdowns, or deaders that I thin out in the back woods; although this year I took down a bunch along the drive to keep them off the powerlines. Along the drive, I can load both the trailer and the FEL bucket at the same time. Back in the woods, I can use either one; but both at once negatively impact maneuvering around the trees to get to the trail. And since the woods back there are hilly, keeping track of rollover angles on the tractor, the bucket, and the trailer at once is really more trouble than it's worth.
I drop the tree and cut to fireplace lengths on the site. Load the rounds and transport back to the house where I then split and stack.
Usually I look for blowdowns, or deaders that I thin out in the back woods; although this year I took down a bunch along the drive to keep them off the powerlines. Along the drive, I can load both the trailer and the FEL bucket at the same time. Back in the woods, I can use either one; but both at once negatively impact maneuvering around the trees to get to the trail. And since the woods back there are hilly, keeping track of rollover angles on the tractor, the bucket, and the trailer at once is really more trouble than it's worth.
lhfarm
Veteran Member
I really like your idea. How long will these last? I need a good source for pallets.
OP
Verticaltrx
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2009
- Messages
- 1,908
- Location
- VA
- Tractor
- Kubota B3200/L2501/SVL65-2/U35-4, IH 454/656, Ford NAA, Case 1845C/480E/450C LGP
I am looking forward to trying my new trailer, I haven't decided if I will load it on stove length or log length. It's just a standard 5x10 angle iron utility trailer, but I built it extra heavy duty and designed it with more tongue weight than average. I'm also building it with a tail gate instead of a ramp for more versatility. Fully loaded it will haul 3500lbs and put about 800lbs of tongue weight on the hitch (which are the limits of my B3200, hence the design). The NAA will definitely pull more, so I might pull it with that and load it with the B3200.
