JIC vs. SAE substitution

[Discount Hydraulic Hose]

I forgot, you'll also need a bonded seal washer for the BSPP fitting.

9500 | Bonded Seal for British Pipe (BSPP)

 

[Jay4200]

The BSPP to SAE elbow is really the problem. I would have ditched that, and gone with an BSPP x Female JIC Swivel 90ｰ instead. Then, all you need is a JIC x ORB adapter, and you're done.

I understand every language except Greek.

JayC

(its all Greek to me...)

 

[picker77]

I missed the diagram you showed earlier. I think I understand what you're doing now. The BSPP to SAE elbow is really the problem. I would have ditched that, and gone with an BSPP x Female JIC Swivel 90ｰ instead. Then, all you need is a JIC x ORB adapter, and you're done.

Pictures here.

9061 | BSPP x Female SAE 37? Flare (JIC) Swivel 90? Elbow

SAE 37? Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) Adapter

Thanks, HHG.. That might have worked better, but the problem I saw with it was when those elbows were properly tightened into the body of the DPOCV, their 90 degree ends would be too close together to exactly match up to the distance between the cylinder's ports. Conversely, the BSPP rigid elbows I have came with a very long (about 3/4") thread length on the BSPP side, so they are sort of "adjustable" and they will end up about two threads short of bottoming out when they are at the correct distance apart. So I'm hoping I can count on a double layer of PTFE tape to make that joint seal even though they won't be bottomed out. Might not work, I'll know soon. I do have a bag of the correct size BSPP bonded seal washers, although I won't need to use them for this setup. I'm probably doing a lousy job of trying to describe what I'm trying to do here, sorry for that.

If this works I'll post photos. If it leaks, I'll own up to it and move on with an alternate solution. In any case, you guys have all been a big help in my attempt to get it done. Even if it doesn't work, I've gained a ton of valuable schooling on connectors and adapters during this little exercise.

 

[Discount Hydraulic Hose]

Conversely, the BSPP rigid elbows I have came with a very long (about 3/4") thread length on the BSPP side, so they are sort of "adjustable" and they will end up about two threads short of bottoming out when they are at the correct distance apart. So I'm hoping I can count on a double layer of PTFE tape to make that joint seal even though they won't be bottomed out.

You're using Teflon tape with a BSPP (parallel) thread? Let us know how that works. I could see using it with BSPT (tapered), but I've never heard of tape or paste being used with a parallel thread before.

A BSPP male fitting should not "bottom out" with a solid BSPP female. It should go all the way into the female fitting and stop only when bonded seal or captive o-Ring reaches the body of the female port.

One possible way to adjust this would be with a BSPP locknut, see below:

9041 | BSPP Bulkhead Locknut

You will still need to use the bonded seal in front of the locknut.

 

[Mechanos]

I don't know if you've resolved this issue yet or not, but what about placing the valve off to the side of the cylinder. This would allow you to splay the lines out a bit to make some more room. The attached sketch does not show any fitting for clarity... just shows "tubes" that would be comprised of various fittings, etc.

 

[picker77]

You're using Teflon tape with a BSPP (parallel) thread? Let us know how that works. I could see using it with BSPT (tapered), but I've never heard of tape or paste being used with a parallel thread before.

A BSPP male fitting should not "bottom out" with a solid BSPP female. It should go all the way into the female fitting and stop only when bonded seal or captive o-Ring reaches the body of the female port.

One possible way to adjust this would be with a BSPP locknut, see below:

9041 | BSPP Bulkhead Locknut

You will still need to use the bonded seal in front of the locknut.

Tried it out this afternoon, leaked like crazy--but NOT at either end of the BSPP fittings. They stayed tight and dry. The problem (as I feared) was making the female JIC to male SAE swivels leak-free. So I still have some things to try to see if I can make that work. The straight female to male swivel adapter (the male end of which goes directly into the cylinder ports) has to swivel, or I can't get the rest of the assembly screwed in.

I reinstalled the side link cylinder back on the tractor (without the DPOCV plumbing) and I'm suspending work on it for the moment while I get some long hoses and QC's made up and installed for a bucket thumb I just finished building a mount for. I need to get the thumb working ASAP, so I can do some brush clearing work while the weather is good. Then I can go back to the side link project.

Mechanos offered another possibility using tubing (thanks), and I might have to go that route, dunno yet. I do know shoehorning the valve directly between the ports on this short-bodied cylinder using just fittings has not been easy.

 

[wdchyd]

Yes, fitting stretch could be a problem....watch out for that.....Picker all the stuff I see has some tubing in it to make up the odd difference in length....(or welded solid w/ tubing)...

You're Welcome.....

 

[Jay4200]

You're using Teflon tape with a BSPP (parallel) thread? Let us know how that works. I could see using it with BSPT (tapered), but I've never heard of tape or paste being used with a parallel thread before.

The cylinders on my snowblower have what appear to be SAE female holes, and the SAE fittings are done with teflon tape - the threaded fitting doesn't bottom out (o-ring is still floating there doing nothing on at least one of them) and none appear to leak. Not to say it's recommended, or that is even an OK solution, but that is what was there when I got it.

JayC

 

[picker77]

The cylinders on my snowblower have what appear to be SAE female holes, and the SAE fittings are done with teflon tape - the threaded fitting doesn't bottom out (o-ring is still floating there doing nothing on at least one of them) and none appear to leak. Not to say it's recommended, or that is even an OK solution, but that is what was there when I got it.

JayC

Real hydraulics people please don't read this..

Tape can work sometimes in situations where it shouldn't. And you can create "tapered" threads from parallel threads with careful winding of tape, as long as you don't get carried away with the wrench and split the fitting. Swivels are a problem, though, when they can't be fitted up tight--they depend on being pulled tight for the swivel to seal, although they do allow you to angle them where you want them before cranking them down. An exception may be "live swivel" adapters, but I don't even know if those are made in straight versions, and they are VERY expensive.

wdchyd, that crow could have used a little more salt, but I ain't done yet. I'll be back to try again as soon as I get the bucket thumb working. :laughing:

 

[Discount Hydraulic Hose]

An exception may be "live swivel" adapters, but I don't even know if those are made in straight versions, and they are VERY expensive.

I'm not suggesting this is a solution for your problem, but yes... live swivel joints are available in straight configurations.

Full-Time Swivel Joints > Discount Hydraulic Hose.com

As a note to some other things...

After working at Discount Hydraulic Hose.com almost seven years, I consider myself pretty knowledgeable about hydraulic fittings and hoses. Still, I am limited in one way that most of you aren't. I've never actually assembled this stuff in the field, or operated hydraulic equipment.

I've held thousands of fittings in my hands, and I've read pages and pages of catalogs and technical specifications. Even so, screwing a few fittings together in the warehouse is different from assembling and maintaining a real working hydraulic system.

I'm learning here, same as you guys.