Huss Log Splitter

[freedy]

I just bought a 1987 Huss Model 14190 log splitter from a rental store.
The man told me the hydraulics are slow. Got it home and he is right, but it splits wood fine. It has a 10 HP B&S, 4.5" x 26" cylinder with a 2.5" ram, 3018 Prince valve, all I know about the pump is its a 2 stage. The splitter is rated at 19 ton with 15 sec. cycle time. I did not time the cycle at this point.
The thing I don't like is it doesn't have a inline filter and only 2.5 gal hyd resivor. Where should I start and how big a mistake did I make?

 

[beenthere]

Do you have some pics to post? Might be able to help with some answers. Can't imagine it was a "mistake". Unless you paid too much.

 

[crazyal]

Are you sure it's a two stage pump? 19 tons seams very light for a 10hp 4.5: cylinder splitter.

 

[brandoro]

If the lack of filter is a concern it shouldn't be hard for you to add one. If that looks like a big deal then change the fluid so you know you are starting fresh on that.
Unless the oil is getting too hot while you are splitting I wouldn't worry too much about the size of the reservoir either.
Being 20+ years old and from a rental shop if either of those things was going to kill it that would have happened long ago IMO.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I just bought a 1987 Huss Model 14190 log splitter from a rental store.
The man told me the hydraulics are slow. Got it home and he is right, but it splits wood fine. It has a 10 HP B&S, 4.5" x 26" cylinder with a 2.5" ram, 3018 Prince valve, all I know about the pump is its a 2 stage. The splitter is rated at 19 ton with 15 sec. cycle time. I did not time the cycle at this point.
The thing I don't like is it doesn't have a inline filter and only 2.5 gal hyd resivor. Where should I start and how big a mistake did I make?

Try to see if there is info on pump about make and model#.....

I assume 15 sec cycle time counts for a combined extend retract....
Then the flow points at a around 12.1 gpm pump (at high stage), and force points at a PRV set at around 2400 psi...
Seems like the 10hp B&S will have easy days on that splitter....plenty of power for a 12gpm two-stage pump

I would time the extend and retract cycle separately....
Also get a meter to check engine rpm's at full speed....should be 3600rpm to meet Haldex-Barnes flow ratings for two-stage pumps

2.5 usg tank is small for a 12 gpm pump, especially when PRV by passes flow at max pressure. Run the splitter for a few hours and check, by hands on how/if/where heat develop above 120-140F range...and then we design new tank size from there...Also use a 0-3000 psi pressure gauge to monitor pump pressure during operation , to see if pump switches between high and low stages....Make a "log", and write down all pressures during different parts of cycling with and without work load

Don't mount any filter till you know for sure you need a larger tank...

If splitter have been a rental for many years and still splits ok, there no reason to panic....even though I'd recommend to add a return filter

If splitter is slow (slower than promised rating), it can be caused by
>> a worned pump...this will quickly heat up the pump housing when pushing high pressure at low stage
>> low engine rpm's...
>>The stage pressure valve in the valve is stuck, and by passes high stage flow back to tank (suction side)
>> leaking piston seal....this will quickly heat up the cylinder when pushing high pressure at low stage
>> CV spool is interfered to make full movement (should be about 3/8"-1/2")...this will quickly heat up the CV

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Are you sure it's a two stage pump? 19 tons seams very light for a 10hp 4.5: cylinder splitter.

Originally Posted by freedy:
"all I know about the pump is its a 2 stage"

Hopefully freedy REALLY know this..

Splitting force is 100% dependent on TWO things....Cylinder diameter and applied pump pressure....HP is secondary.....even a 1hp engine can push 19tons, if pump flow is low enough...

 

[AKKAMAAN]

If the lack of filter is a concern it shouldn't be hard for you to add one. If that looks like a big deal then change the fluid so you know you are starting fresh on that.
Unless the oil is getting too hot while you are splitting I wouldn't worry too much about the size of the reservoir either.
Being 20+ years old and from a rental shop if either of those things was going to kill it that would have happened long ago IMO.

+1:thumbsup:

 

[Diamondpilot]

If the lack of filter is a concern it shouldn't be hard for you to add one. If that looks like a big deal then change the fluid so you know you are starting fresh on that.
Unless the oil is getting too hot while you are splitting I wouldn't worry too much about the size of the reservoir either.
Being 20+ years old and from a rental shop if either of those things was going to kill it that would have happened long ago IMO.

I agree. As for the filter get one for the return side, not the pressure side. I like filters to be between the valve and the tank on the return hose. I would change out the fluid and check out the pump. The slow cycle may mean the pump has lost its two speed ability and is stuck in the slow gear so to speak.

Chris

 

[freedy]

Thanks for the help guys! this will give me a starting point.
Think I'll start with the pump to make sure the two stage valve is working.
Any advice on how to disasemble it?
Can't send pictures right know camera is broke sorry.
Paid $400

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Thanks for the help guys! this will give me a starting point.
Think I'll start with the pump to make sure the two stage valve is working.
Any advice on how to disasemble it?
Can't send pictures right know camera is broke sorry.
Paid $400

There is only the pressure valve and a check valve to take apart....
we need to determine the make of pump first...

here is an example of a Haldex-Barnes info pdf, showing the cross section of the valving...

 

[beenthere]

.......Can't send pictures right know camera is broke sorry.
Paid $400

That is what happened to my $400 camera. Replaced with a $70 digital, and it works as good or better, plus has a memory card for easy download to computer.


Might be a good time to get an oil pressure gauge and put it in the pressure line. They would be handy to have when splitting wood, and you could monitor the two stage pump.

I've an 8 hp B&S engine original to a 1985 splitter, and I have only 2.5 gal oil resevoir. No heating. Not sure of the cycle time, but know the 2 stage pump works well.

Being this was a rental unit, all parts there may not be original, including the pump and/or the engine.

 

[freedy]

The pump is a Viking model #CP-055014-CO

 

[AKKAMAAN]

The pump is a Viking model #CP-055014-CO

Cant find any more than DOUBLE PUMPS at Viking pumps site.... at search on viking pump site this comes up....



I think we will have to give crazyal a point here...:thumbsup:
Are you sure it is a TWO-stage and not a double pump??
How many each of suction lines and pressure lines is connected to pump?
Any valving built into pump?


We need some photo of the pump,,,:confused2:
or call
Viking Pump, Inc. A Unit of IDEX Corporation
406 State Street, P.O. Box 8
Cedar Falls, Iowa 50613-0008
Telefon: (319) 266-1741
Fax: (319) 273-8157

 

[freedy]

Got some pump pictures.
Viking pump model GP-055014-CO

 

[2458n]

Question - With the low price of new two stage pumps would an individual be able to rebuild a worn old pump if the pressure is low? I have a similar problem.

 

[rgwalsh]

The pump is a Viking model #CP-055014-CO

What, if anything, did you find about the Viking pump? I have the same pump I am about to put on a MTD 27 ton log splitter and I am not having any luck finding info on it.

 

[muddstopper]

http://vp.salesmrc.com/pdfs/SP-1470-C.pdf

 

[muddstopper]

Try to see if there is info on pump about make and model#.....


Then the flow points at a around 12.1 gpm pump (at high stage), and force points at a PRV set at around 2400 psi...

Just a question to make sure I am not misunderstanding terms. I am guessing that PRV that you wrote = Pressure reducing valve. My thoughts are that a two stage or double pump would use pressure sensing unloading valves and not pressure reducing valves to shift from high flow/low pressure to low flow/high pressure. The unloader valve senses pressure buildup because of load and then opens the unloader valve to dump the high flow back to tank. Unloader valves are NC valves and when pressure is sensed (internally or externally sensed, depending on application), the valve opens, dumping back to tank. Is this correct.

 

[rgwalsh]

Thank you

 

[aeblank]

I think without timing the cycle, you're spinning your wheels.
$400 (for the splitter, not the camera!) is a real good price, at least around here.
I got an 80s vintage Northern Hydraulics unit for $500, and come to find out, it was a STEAL of a deal.
It was pristine though, except for some H/A plastic fittings. NOT a rental unit.