Snow Attachments Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project

[wedge40]

I'm no welder, but why couldn't those gouges be filled with something and filed smooth? You might have find some special rod, but it seems like there is something to weld stainless steel.

Wedge

 

[Kubota Tee]

Q1) The extra piece of steel on your sector is an add on. With age and wear, the moldboard will not sit properly after tripping. Basically, it leans backward further than it should for proper snowplowing. The angle of attack of the cutting edge changes and the rolling action of the moldboard is reduced. The additional stop contacts the horizontal piece of angle on the moldboard so the moldboard doesn't lean back too far.
The proper position for the moldboard can be determined as follows: This is done with the moldboard attached to the sector and A-frame. With the center of the attaching holes on the back end of the A-frame at 10"-11" ( 10 1/2" is ideal ) hang a string from the top edge of the moldboard to the ground. The string should contact the ground 3 1/2" in front of the cutting edge.

TOMMAPLE,

Wow! Thanks for taking the time to respond to my questions. Sure seems like you have a good bit of experience with these snow plows.

Regarding the extra piece of steel on the sector, I am still thinking of removing it since I will be able to control the angle using the FEL curl function. Am I missing anything here?

If you think there is still a reason to keep it, please let me know.

Thanks again,

 

[tommaple]

TOMMAPLE,

Wow! Thanks for taking the time to respond to my questions. Sure seems like you have a good bit of experience with these snow plows.

Regarding the extra piece of steel on the sector, I am still thinking of removing it since I will be able to control the angle using the FEL curl function. Am I missing anything here?

If you think there is still a reason to keep it, please let me know.

Thanks again,

Yes, you can do without the stop. After you have replaced the pivot pins you'll be able to tell if you need the add-on stops or not. One problem that can occur is the moldboard coming back so far that it locks or is jammed in the back position. This happens when the plow is tripped and the springs pull it back so fast and hard that it returns to far and jams. This is only an issue with an older snowplow.
Feel free to ask any other questions. I'm going out to plow snow myself but will be back in by mid day.

One other thing, the piston rod on the power angling cylinders are not stainless steel. They are cold rolled which is then chromed. Theoretically, you could fill the gouge, have it machined smooth and re=chromed. The cost would certainly be more than a new cylinder. You should be able to find good used angling cylinders on Craig's list or Ebay. You want the 1 1/2" x 10" cylinders. Meyer also had 2" x 12" but those were for 8' and larger snowplows.

 

[srs]

How long do the rubber edges last? do they bolt on the same way as the steel ones?

Dead Horse, I got the rubber edge from a guy that works for the local government. He had an extra piece off of their road trucks, it was worn on one side and he gave it to me. The rubber edge, as mentioned is sandwiched in between the plow and the metal cutting edge. You flip the cutting edge up and using longer bolts squish it real tight. The rubber edge on my plow is 1 1/2 inch thick. It will last a lifetime. These rubber edges are used on the highway by large trucks and they can really take a beating. What a royal pain to cut too!

 

[srs]

Thanks for the feedback regarding the rubber cutting edge. It's always good to hear from someone with real life experience. My driveway is concrete, but our road is asphalt as is my neighbors drive. I also have the gravel portion of our driveway that leads down to the lower garage where the tractor is stored. I am definitely leaning towards the rubber cutting edge.

Kubota Tee, I forgot to mention that if you visit the local government yard (state or local) where snowplow trucks are stored you might be able to ask someone about the used rubber edges. They are probably 1 1/2 inch by 10 foot long (to fit the road plows) and if they are very worn they are usually thrown into the trash. You never know you might get lucky. The worst that they can say is "no". Good luck!

 

[Kubota Tee]

Kubota Tee, I forgot to mention that if you visit the local government yard (state or local) where snowplow trucks are stored you might be able to ask someone about the used rubber edges. They are probably 1 1/2 inch by 10 foot long (to fit the road plows) and if they are very worn they are usually thrown into the trash. You never know you might get lucky. The worst that they can say is "no". Good luck!

SRS,

Thanks for the tip:thumbsup:, I'll have to check that out!

After an unsuccessful try to heat the cylinder myself to get the plug out, I decided to take it to my friend's shop today. All I have for heat is a propane torch and I just don't think it gets hot enough to do this job. My friend's shop has some REAL metal working equipment and he was confident that he could get it out. I'll go back tomorrow to check on progress as he was also going to look at cutting out the rusted pivot pins and sleeves from the sector.

I took some time online today and purchased all of my new hardware including pivot pins with grease fittings. This will save me the trouble of adding grease fittings to the sleeves. The only thing I didn't order was new cutting edge bolts. I'm waiting to see how much money I have left ($1000 project budget) towards the end to buy a rubber cutting edge. Perhaps the tip regarding the local government yard will help me save some $$$!! I'll get the cutting edge bolts last.

 

[Kubota Tee]

Ok, let's talk hydraulic hookups.

When I bought the tractor new, I had them put on additional front and rear hydraulic hook ups. This will be my first occasion to use the front ones. They are controlled by a toggle switch on the FEL control arm and the quick attach ports are mounted near the front of the FEL.

With the tractor, I received a set of hydraulic lines with quick attach fittings on one end and a 90 degree fitting on the end that would attach to the angle cylinders on the plow. So, my question is . . . What type of fitting would be best to use between these hydraulic lines and the angle cylinder? A straight male to male fitting?, a 90 degree male to male swivel like the one I took off (also in pic)?, or something else. I don't have to adapt the size since the hydraulic lines already match the cylinder (1/4" fitting I believe).

Let me know your thoughts!

 

[Kubota Tee]

Here are some additional pics showing:

1. QA Hydro Ports on the FEL arm

2. Toggle switch on the FEL control joystick

3. WR Long Hydraulic System

 

[Kubota Tee]

Oh yea, forgot to ask . . . does the WR Long system provide for the cross-over relief system that was mentioned earlier? How big of a deal is this?

 

[Diamondpilot]

I see you found my Meyer Plow rebuild but I will link it here for the others.

Meyer Plow for my tractor - Page 6 - TractorByNet.com

As for the cylinders I got them new, Chinese Replacements, off Ebay for $45 each and 2 seasons now not a leak and they work perfect.

Chris