FORD 2000 3CYL GAS WONT FIRE

[Jerry/MT]

THANKYOU,MY NEW TRACTOR IS HOME AT MY BARN!!..I RECHECKED ALL MY CONNECTIONS,RESET POINT GAP..DID TSP OF OIL IN 2 EASY CYLINDERS..THEN I HAD THROTTLE ROD IN PROPER POSITION,ALL THE WAY UP,HARD..JUMPED MY TRUCK TO FRESH BAT ON TRACTOR..INSTEAD OF BLOWING ETHER IN CARB BOTTOM I REALLY JUST KEPT SQUIRTING IN AIR INTAKE ALOT,,IT SLOWLY STARTED TO STRNG SOME POPS TOGETHER!!!.THEN IT RAN!!..RAN IT FOR 15,,NO SMOKE OUT OF STACK AT ALL,ALL SEEMED WELL,,TSTAT DIDNT OPEN YET BUT I WANTED TO GET IT HOME,,OIL IS BLACK AND IN A PERFECT WORLD I WOULD HAVE CHANGED IT BEFORE THE 3.5 MILE RIDE HOME,,,WORKED GREAT UP AND DOWN HILLS ETC,,LOT OF SMOKE OUT OF CRANKCASE VENT...DIRTY OIL?..AFTER PARKED IT DRIPPED SOME WHITISH GOO OUT OF THERE TOO,MAYBE A TLBS...THANKS SOUNDGUY,,JIM

gald you got it to run.

I don't want to rain on your parade but I doubt that the smoke out the crankcase vent is from dirty oil! Did the engine get to operating temperture in the 3.5 miles to your barn? Sounds like it didn't. That whitish goo could be water condensate/oil mist from sitting outside for a while and not being operated or it could be something else. Change the oil and carefully examine what you drain out.

Don't work the tractor if you can't get it to operating temperature. Check the thermostat, the water pump, and belt tension and make sure those components are working, replacing whatever is not if you find something bad. Then get the engine to operating temperature and see if the blowby is reduced.

 

[Soundguy]

he might have sticky rings from setting.. that may have been part of his starting problem.

if it were mine, I'd dump some atf in each cyl and then change the oil, looking for coolant emulsion.. if none, change oil and filter and service air filter, then roll the engine over now and then by hand ( plugs out of course.

change oil in the rear sumps, and then dump some atf in the engine oil and the gas and then go run her for a days worth of work.

after that I'd check the compression.. dry then wet, warmed engine, throttle open all the way, gas off.

soundguy

 

[CHEEKS]

Thanks so much,Okay,this thing sat for almost a yr.The oil is beyond filthy.I figured all this would contribute to the blowby,The tlbs of goo concerns me..the stack blew clear all the way home,unless i reved it a good bit it would belch black for a sec..Now how much ATF am i dumping in cyls?.and mixing with gas?..I gotta get a book,,wheres rear sumps?..Its a 74' im almost sure of but not 100%on model as theres only i set of numbers over serial#..Jim

he might have sticky rings from setting.. that may have been part of his starting problem.

if it were mine, I'd dump some atf in each cyl and then change the oil, looking for coolant emulsion.. if none, change oil and filter and service air filter, then roll the engine over now and then by hand ( plugs out of course.

change oil in the rear sumps, and then dump some atf in the engine oil and the gas and then go run her for a days worth of work.

after that I'd check the compression.. dry then wet, warmed engine, throttle open all the way, gas off.

soundguy

 

[CHEEKS]

Thanks so much,when and if it warms ill do a lot of work on it,huntin this week,,i figure if there was problem with moisture it would smoke whitish out the stack which was clear unless i reved it a good bit it would belch black for a sec,,i have to get a manuel also..i thick it was neglected before it sat the yr and also coming off of plowing snow during out bad winter last yr..can this tractor run on 2 cylinders if say # 3 wire came off cap?..Old Dist nipple was all worn on inside as if wire contact was off and vibrating on inside of it..all chewed up and that contact was solid rust,of course this was how i found it,not now,thankyou,Jim

gald you got it to run.

I don't want to rain on your parade but I doubt that the smoke out the crankcase vent is from dirty oil! Did the engine get to operating temperture in the 3.5 miles to your barn? Sounds like it didn't. That whitish goo could be water condensate/oil mist from sitting outside for a while and not being operated or it could be something else. Change the oil and carefully examine what you drain out.

Don't work the tractor if you can't get it to operating temperature. Check the thermostat, the water pump, and belt tension and make sure those components are working, replacing whatever is not if you find something bad. Then get the engine to operating temperature and see if the blowby is reduced.

 

[Soundguy]

put some atf in the fyls.. at least a few ounces each.. plugs in loosely to keep debri out.. then let it set and pull plugs prior to turning the engine over after a day.. etc.

then remove plugs and crank over to expell the oil.

as for atf in the fuel and oil.. say half quart each...

soundguy

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I would get the old oil and filter changed out and go with a good diesel oil like Rotella 5W-40 and change the filter about every 10 hours. If you are going to warm up the engine before you drain I would dump a can of Sea Foam into the crankcase and let it run for 20 minutes. I could consider a new filter first just in case the current one is in by-pass mode already.

If you are going to change it cold then let it drain for a while then go back with most any oil and a new filter and it warmed up and add a can of Sea Foam and work it for a few hours and change it again.

Sea Foam will help flush the build up out of the ring groves and all other build up. Keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge.

Blow-by is normal in these gas engines from my experience once they get some hours on them. As long as the compression is high enought to start and work do not rebuilt one unless you plan to use it 40 hours a week for hire.

I would like to have a small FEL around the place that would start and run.

 

[Jbrink64]

I would make sure it gets up to 180 degrees- hot enough you can't touch the intake manifold. Those 3 cyl gassers don't run well cold.

 

[MMagis]

I would make sure it gets up to 180 degrees- hot enough you can't touch the intake manifold. Those 3 cyl gassers don't run well cold.

In what way do you mean? Mine has always done well, though it's been years since I've used a diesel enough to make a fair comparison.

 

[Soundguy]

it's not good for any of those engines to run at lower than their thermostat temp.. doesn't keep the sludge out..

soundguy

 

[CHEEKS]

I would get the old oil and filter changed out and go with a good diesel oil like Rotella 5W-40 and change the filter about every 10 hours. If you are going to warm up the engine before you drain I would dump a can of Sea Foam into the crankcase and let it run for 20 minutes. I could consider a new filter first just in case the current one is in by-pass mode already.

If you are going to change it cold then let it drain for a while then go back with most any oil and a new filter and it warmed up and add a can of Sea Foam and work it for a few hours and change it again.

Sea Foam will help flush the build up out of the ring groves and all other build up. Keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge.

Blow-by is normal in these gas engines from my experience once they get some hours on them. As long as the compression is high enought to start and work do not rebuilt one unless you plan to use it 40 hours a week for hire.

I would like to have a small FEL around the place that would start and run.

Thanks Gale,ill either change oil cold,then put new and add put some marvel mystery oil in it that i have here,run and see how hot it gets,then do a good oil change,,go from there