Picked up new (to me) blower, one small problem

[Jay4200]

Well yesterday was kind of lost, it was raining so hard I didn't want to move the tractor across the lawn to the garage but today is a different story

I mounted the blower & ran it up some to be sure there were no issues. It's a beast. I looked it up on Normand's site & it says it weighs just over 600 lbs but then it has the hydraulics added that must add another 50-60 lbs. I wasn't sure how the little L3400 would handle it but the 3 pt had no problems lifting it easily - even at idle. Just seems like a lot of weight hanging way back there.

Now I'm (almost) ready for some serious gravel throwing. Speaking of stones, I see only one lil itty bitty shear bolt (on the drive shaft) of this brute. . . does that sound right???

There are two shear bolts, but the second is on the PTO shaft, I think. I found a 6-footer version of the same machine on CL this summer for similar $$, including the dual hydraulic remotes, although yours is in nicer shape. I integrated a valve set onto the blower since I didn't have remotes to run the hydraulics - a PITA at best.

I'm surprised that a 5 footer covers your wheel track. I needed 6' to cover my L4200 rears, which made it far harder (and more $$$) to find a used machine - not many out there bigger than 5'.

I have a parts manual from Normand that includes your blower and accys (in pdf format) if you want it - PM me and I'll e-mail it to you.

JayC

 

[ctgoldwing]

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If you have not done it already lower the skid shoes to keep it above the gravel until you have frozen ground.

The drive sprockets and bevel and spur gear box have key stock that will shear if jammed and the chain may break as well as secondary safety break.

I am unsure if the Impeller shaft has a shear pin behind the impeller drum if it is exposed between the gear box and impeller drum.

IF it were me in your situation:

1. I would replace the shaft you have now with a EuroCardan shaft and a limited slip clutch disc pack as it will offer you faster cut out and release to protect the tractors drive train an avoid shock damage for the auger chain and gear box; call me a worry wort but the limited slip spring clutch pack will be a better fit as you will not shear a pin.



The last time I checked a No. 6 EuroCardan complete with limited slip friction disc clutch was $235-$275.00 U.S.D.

You may have to do some surgery to shorten it but other than adjusting it to add tension per the adjustment directions you will have little to worry about with it other than occasionally using some alcohol to wash the clutch surface free of dust if you use it on a filed mower or other attachment.

The limited slip disc clutch pack will be loose from the factory and you will need to release all the springs tension a little bit at a time to adjust it properly as the clutch will release too quickly as it is unadjusted.



On of the members used his mulch pile as resistance to adjust his blower with the the friction disc clutch assembly if I remember correctly which worked well as the mulch would argue to much and provided a sufficient resistance for the adjustment.

Some of the folks will disagree with my thought, but spending money now will save you aggravation later wherein the shear pin will shear and the shaft will still turn as well and then its a dud when the time comes and dealing with a shear pin issue in the dark is no fun.

The other worry is one of a shear pin that is too strong in steel shear strength as a limited slip clutch bypasses that issue.

Thank you very much for your thoughtful reply leonz! I have spoken to my local tractor dealer about replacing the drive with a clutch unit. He has the opinion that I should stay with the shear pin and as you mentioned nothing stronger than reccomended by the mfgr. His point is if / when I pick up a rock you want the pin to shear as fast as posible & the drive shaft to stop. He had a clutch shaft sitting on the floor as we spoke so its not like he was trying to sell me anything. For now I am going to stay with the shear pin - if it becomes a nusance with it breaking all the time I'll get the clutch shaft.

There are two shear bolts, but the second is on the PTO shaft, I think. I found a 6-footer version of the same machine on CL this summer for similar $$, including the dual hydraulic remotes, although yours is in nicer shape. I integrated a valve set onto the blower since I didn't have remotes to run the hydraulics - a PITA at best.

I'm surprised that a 5 footer covers your wheel track. I needed 6' to cover my L4200 rears, which made it far harder (and more $$$) to find a used machine - not many out there bigger than 5'.

I have a parts manual from Normand that includes your blower and accys (in pdf format) if you want it - PM me and I'll e-mail it to you.

JayC

JayC I just came from the tractor dealer. He is going to order a dual spool valve today. When it comes in we will get the tractor over to him & discuss exactly the best placement for it. The L3400 is just about 4-1/2' wide so a 5 footer is fine. The previous owner gave me what literature she had but tha was basically a parts list of the machine. I emailed Normand last Sunday evening & asked them if they had a more complete users / operating manual. Early Monday morning theyemailed what sounds like the same pdf you have I was hoping there was some kind of operating manual that showed all the grease points, shear pins etc.

I see the shear bolt (#8 metric) for the drive shaft. Where are there other(s)?

 

[Jay4200]

JayC I just came from the tractor dealer. He is going to order a dual spool valve today. When it comes in we will get the tractor over to him & discuss exactly the best placement for it. The L3400 is just about 4-1/2' wide so a 5 footer is fine. The previous owner gave me what literature she had but tha was basically a parts list of the machine. I emailed Normand last Sunday evening & asked them if they had a more complete users / operating manual. Early Monday morning theyemailed what sounds like the same pdf you have I was hoping there was some kind of operating manual that showed all the grease points, shear pins etc.

I see the shear bolt (#8 metric) for the drive shaft. Where are there other(s)?

Good luck with the remote project. It was 3 solid weekends and about $250 in parts for me to build my "remote remotes". I just couldn't figure out a decent place to put the valve and hoses on the tractor that would be clean and look factory - if I was going to be stuck with a kludge, I figured I'd be better off with a kludge that I could remove. I use a power-beyond outlet on my tractor to plug in the blower lines, which include the valve set. The valve is mounted on a steel table/arm that I made, which bolts onto the 3pt mount. The valves move up and down with the blower, not unlike the handle on a manual control chute. I think it came out pretty cool.

The other shear bolt is on the end of the PTO shaft - I attached the pic for the E60 shaft (#14). I don't think there are any others on the blower itself.

JayC

 

[ctgoldwing]

The other shear bolt is on the end of the PTO shaft - I attached the pic for the E60 shaft (#14). I don't think there are any others on the blower itself.

JayC

Thanks Jay - that's the one I see. Are there any others? I stopped at TSC yesterday & picked up 4 #8 X 50mm bolts & nuts. As these are threaded their whole length they are, if anything, less strong than a solid bolt.

Your valves came out looking fine. I want mine on the tractor for future hydraulic uses and i have to keep in mind that the backhoe is going to be there at times.

 

[Jay4200]

Your valves came out looking fine. I want mine on the tractor for future hydraulic uses and i have to keep in mind that the backhoe is going to be there at times.

Thanks - I originally had a PB line (from loader) and return to tank with female QCs for use with my backhoe. The 3pt was disabled with this set-up, however, since the 3pt is last in line - 3pt use required moving a QC up front so that the loader PB line went to the 3pt instead of to the back of the tractor. The two QCs were also mounted right above the 3pt hitch, so I couldn't use them with a 3pt anything, since the hoses would be in the way. Since I needed the 3pt while using remotes for the blower project, I had to add a new PB line that would run from the remotes to the 3pt hitch.

I moved the existing lines for my new set-up to the side of the ROPS, permanently connected the loader PB to the rear line, and added a new line w/ male QC for the PB to run the 3pt (from the remotes). Now, when I disconnect the blower, all I do is plug the new 3pt PB line into the old PB line (female QC), which connects the loader PB through to the 3pt hitch, so I'm set to run on the 3pt. For my backhoe, I just unplug the new line and let it hang, then plug my 'hoe into the repositioned existing QCs. It's much slicker than the old setup and only required one additional line.

I probably won't ever get anything else that needs remote hydraulics anyway, at least not before getting another tractor (just looking for an excuse to get a new one). I figure if I ever got anything else that required remote hydraulics for my existing L4200, I would just buy another valve and build another dedicated remote. It is simple and cheap enough and keeps things clean.

JayC

 

[Jay4200]

Thanks Jay - that's the one I see.

Oh - you seem to have missed the important one - there is a 1/4-28 shear bolt on the blower shaft that goes from the transmission to the auger chain drive gear. If you are standing behind the blower next to the 3pt mount, it is on your left under a cover. Lift the cover to expose the rear section of the chain, and you will see that the drive shaft is connected to the gear through a small plate with a single bolt on one side of it. This is the bolt that is supposed to break first. Knaw-meen?

JayC

 

[ctgoldwing]

Oh - you seem to have missed the important one - there is a 1/4-28 shear bolt on the blower shaft that goes from the transmission to the auger chain drive gear. If you are standing behind the blower next to the 3pt mount, it is on your left under a cover. Lift the cover to expose the rear section of the chain, and you will see that the drive shaft is connected to the gear through a small plate with a single bolt on one side of it. This is the bolt that is supposed to break first. Knaw-meen?

JayC

Yes I did

I believe this is the puppy in the pdf (btw your pdf is much better quality than the one I received)

I'll be picking up a few of these also.

Thanks!