OP
Fabricated rear PTO guard
- Thread starter 4shorts
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jmc
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4shorts,
Slightly off topic but when you bend up those U-shaped parts, one 90 degree bend at a time, and you want to hold a certain overall width between the two parallel legs, how do you do it with any accuracy?
John
Slightly off topic but when you bend up those U-shaped parts, one 90 degree bend at a time, and you want to hold a certain overall width between the two parallel legs, how do you do it with any accuracy?
John
Chilly807
Elite Member
Now that's an answer I'm waiting for too, but I'm afraid the answer is going to be "Experience.."
Sean
dcyrilc
Elite Member
OK, so if I understand you correctly, it just holds it in the same alignment as the drill bit and you still manually turn the tap to tap the threads?
If that's the case, then after 30+ years and thousands of hand tapped holes, I can see if a tap is straight or crooked with my eye. I haven't broken a tap in probably 10 years or better. That device really doesn't serve any practical purpose for me.
OP
4shorts
Elite Member
Well John I wouldn't consider it off topic and actually a very good question and to be honest Sean is right.
Experience is a Hugh part of it and knowing the machine really well is essential. You'll see in the video where the sides meet and it's dead on. If your really used to the brake on the iron worker and you mark your lines clear it will work out but it's one of the trickeyest part of the build. Face it. If it's not done right it won't be square and the complete process will be off. The same holds true for the bender you'll see in the video for bending the grills for the lights. You have to know the equipment and a bit of luck don't hurt either
Chilly807
Elite Member
I recently bent up some elliptical shaped handles for the cylinder pins on my rear blade, I wanted them as even as possible for appearances sake. A little bit of heat, a little bit of bend, eyeball it and heat a bit more. Generally, it's experience and taking your time.
If it's something you're building 20 of, you can make some measurements and try one to see if it's exactly the right size. If not, you extend or reduce the measurements by the amount you're "off" and the second one should be perfect. Those corrected measurements form the blueprint for the remaining 19.
Most stuff I build is "one of", so it doesn't usually work that way.
Sean
If it's something you're building 20 of, you can make some measurements and try one to see if it's exactly the right size. If not, you extend or reduce the measurements by the amount you're "off" and the second one should be perfect. Those corrected measurements form the blueprint for the remaining 19.
Most stuff I build is "one of", so it doesn't usually work that way.
Sean
mjncad
Super Member
Man I wish my eyes were still that good; but progressive bi-focals can make for some distorted images now and then. The plus side of the hand tapper that Paul and I have is that gravity pulls the tap in as you thread the hole. You're not fighting the drill press' spring loaded quill or the inertia of a tailstock with the alignment arbors shown earlier. However; I still think they have a purpose in the toolbox.
If you want power tapping with your drill press, etc; then you have to look into a Tapmatic gizmo that does the chip breaking reverse motion every so often. How well they work I don't know as I can't afford one; but I sure would like give one a try.
jmc
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- Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST
Experience is a Hugh part of it and knowing the machine really well is essential. If your really used to the brake on the iron worker and you mark your lines clear it will work out but it's one of the trickeyest part of the build. Face it. If it's not done right it won't be square and the complete process will be off. You have to know the equipment and a bit of luck don't hurt either
Yeah, I dread those jobs where you have to hold your tongue just right.
Thanks,
John
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4shorts
Elite Member
Ya and when you get it right you pat yourself on the back and say "Gee I'm glad I didn't have to do that the 11th time" :laughing:
tlbuser
Veteran Member
Correct, all that they do is keep everything aligned.
The beauty of the machine held one is that the tap handle has ~1/2 - 3/4" overlap.(the circled gap area) You hold the quill in place then turn the tap handle and let gravity assist. For me, since I'm not CNC'd and spatially constricted, it's what I've become accustomed to. I could have used a drill chuck in the lathe setup also, was just trying to illustrate options.
I've got a tapmatic in the toolbox somewhere. Not very fond of it. For me, it's easier to tap manually.
