kattywumpus
Gold Member
Hey, I still have to shift between low, mid, and high range! Which I seem do a lot.
I learn to use steering brakes on a JD Model L. I think, I used them mostly to throw my bother off the tractor.
4x4 chains - front only
- Thread starter Jay4200
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Hey, I still have to shift between low, mid, and high range! Which I seem do a lot.
I learn to use steering brakes on a JD Model L. I think, I used them mostly to throw my bother off the tractor.
First one
Gold Member
I would try putting chains on the front ,but if your rear wheels are slipping than your trying to pull the tractor with your front wheels (or wheel)right?
Don't most 4x4's only have one front tire engaging at any one time in 4x4? (Could you let me know if I'm wrong .)
If I'm right, I sure don't want to think I'm trying to pull my tractor with power just going to one front tire that's not spinning with chains on.
No way I'm going to take the chance of a costly repair to the front end when I know chains on the rear are safe to use. When you guys run chains on front ,don't they hit when you turn the wheel all the way to one side or the other?
Don't most 4x4's only have one front tire engaging at any one time in 4x4? (Could you let me know if I'm wrong .)
If I'm right, I sure don't want to think I'm trying to pull my tractor with power just going to one front tire that's not spinning with chains on.
No way I'm going to take the chance of a costly repair to the front end when I know chains on the rear are safe to use. When you guys run chains on front ,don't they hit when you turn the wheel all the way to one side or the other?
PILOON
Super Star Member
If. like I had to do, you end up replacing the front ring and pinion gears you would think twice of pulling your heavy tractor with the front differential.
I have my rear chained and engage the front drive only when absolutely needed.
Also as others stated, I use differential braking when pushing snow loads with my front mounted plow.
Using my rear blower, the front is most often disengaged.
Just look at the differance in size of the two differentials and you have your answer.
I have my rear chained and engage the front drive only when absolutely needed.
Also as others stated, I use differential braking when pushing snow loads with my front mounted plow.
Using my rear blower, the front is most often disengaged.
Just look at the differance in size of the two differentials and you have your answer.
atgreene
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2007
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- Sebago, Maine
- Tractor
- 2005 TB135 Excavator with Thumb, Quick Attach System, Ripper tooth, 3' Hydrauic Tilt Clean-up Bucket, Skeleton Bucket, 1986 Kubota 4150 with Loader and Quick Attach with Woods Forks, JD B, 1963 IH 504
I still would be very cautious about running on the front. I can groom snowmobile trails with my 4150 with just the rear Trygg tire chains, but I have another set coming for the front for steering. TRYGG SMT Flexi
Most farmers, contractors, and public work departments I know only put chains on the front. They put chains on the front to primarily to prevent side slipping when using a front or rear plow blade. When the blade is angled and moving large amount of snow the tendency is for the front end to swing on the oppose direction from were the snow is being pushed. This happens because the front is normally lighter then the rear on most tractors, loaders, and skidsteers. Plow truck have a different weight configuration so a truck may only have chains on the rear if any.
Katywupus, I've worked as a farmer and at dpw's and around equipment my entire life, never seen anyone but homeowners use chains on the front, unless you are refering to loaders and skidders? Most any commercial ap will warm you against it. For the most part, homeowners doing homeowner type work can get away with it, but on a day to day basis it is frowned upon. The only exception I know of is loaders and skidders (log skidders). We used to run chains on just the front of the skidder for a while, as most or the work is done on the rear of the machine and steering is a problem when puilling hard. Loaders are likewise hard to steer due to the articulation.
Then again, sometimes even with chains you still end up stuck in the mud.
Most farmers, contractors, and public work departments I know only put chains on the front. They put chains on the front to primarily to prevent side slipping when using a front or rear plow blade. When the blade is angled and moving large amount of snow the tendency is for the front end to swing on the oppose direction from were the snow is being pushed. This happens because the front is normally lighter then the rear on most tractors, loaders, and skidsteers. Plow truck have a different weight configuration so a truck may only have chains on the rear if any.
Katywupus, I've worked as a farmer and at dpw's and around equipment my entire life, never seen anyone but homeowners use chains on the front, unless you are refering to loaders and skidders? Most any commercial ap will warm you against it. For the most part, homeowners doing homeowner type work can get away with it, but on a day to day basis it is frowned upon. The only exception I know of is loaders and skidders (log skidders). We used to run chains on just the front of the skidder for a while, as most or the work is done on the rear of the machine and steering is a problem when puilling hard. Loaders are likewise hard to steer due to the articulation.
Then again, sometimes even with chains you still end up stuck in the mud.
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JB4310
Super Member
I ran fronts only for a few years since I only needed a tad more traction at times, this year I put the rears on as well, just in time for our last ~20 " snowfall.
With the rear chains and good ballast I don't even need to engage front axle under normal avg snow.
JB.
With the rear chains and good ballast I don't even need to engage front axle under normal avg snow.
JB.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
I have been using front chains only for about two years, ever since I discovered that the front wheels would take the same size chains as my F-150. Learn to make do with what you have.
I have been thinking about this and am beginning to have some doubts. We have a common, private road which is asphalt and then a gravel driveway up to the house.
I am not worried about early bearing failure -- I can replace those. Here is what I am worried about:
The asphalt part of the drive is very steep, ands has steep drop-offs on one side or the other for maybe 1000 feet. We get only a few inches of snow, but it is usually very wet snow and is extremely slippery. If I keep the tractor in 4WD to have brakes on the front wheels, I am worried that a loss of traction on the rears will cause the tractor to skid sideways or even in a complete circle, which will inevitably dump it off one side of the road or the other.
Any comments on how to prevent this? Or is it even a realistic possibility?
I have been thinking about this and am beginning to have some doubts. We have a common, private road which is asphalt and then a gravel driveway up to the house.
I am not worried about early bearing failure -- I can replace those. Here is what I am worried about:
The asphalt part of the drive is very steep, ands has steep drop-offs on one side or the other for maybe 1000 feet. We get only a few inches of snow, but it is usually very wet snow and is extremely slippery. If I keep the tractor in 4WD to have brakes on the front wheels, I am worried that a loss of traction on the rears will cause the tractor to skid sideways or even in a complete circle, which will inevitably dump it off one side of the road or the other.
Any comments on how to prevent this? Or is it even a realistic possibility?
JoeL4330
Platinum Member
I can't visualize the scenario you seem to fear: 4wd and chains on the front (wisely, IMHO) for engine braking ...so, how do the rears lose traction? either by using the brakes, locking the rears, and having gravity/momentum make the rear slide ...so, get off the brakes and let your engine-braked-chained-fronts handle the stopping. What is normally observed in cars when the rears lock (or spin) is loss of traction and then the road camber causes the car to slide into the ditch. But in your case, get off the brakes, and power applied to the chained-fronts can pull you straight, as it were, ...or anywhere you steer ...think "front-wheel-drive" ...you just have to overcome the polar moment ...which is what front-wheel-drive does ...that's why front-wheel-drive cars "push" in a curve and it is actually hard to make the tail come around (which you would do in a rear-wheel-drive car by blipping the throttle ...i.e., spinning the rears momentarily to break traction and induce rear-wheel slide (then, of course, back off the throttle and accelerate within the adhesion limits of the rear tires)
As for the OP, knowing the various tricks for chaining up means that you never have to lift 80 pounds ...you might have to drag 80 pounds to line them up, but (if you have open wheels) you can let the tractor bring the chains over the wheel. And, once mine are on, they stay on for the winter ...so, even if you brought in a helper once a year, you'd be on top of things.
As for the OP, knowing the various tricks for chaining up means that you never have to lift 80 pounds ...you might have to drag 80 pounds to line them up, but (if you have open wheels) you can let the tractor bring the chains over the wheel. And, once mine are on, they stay on for the winter ...so, even if you brought in a helper once a year, you'd be on top of things.
kattywumpus
Gold Member
I believe most compact tractor use a standard differential design on front and rear axles with the exception that the rear can be locked. What is called a locking differential. With a standard differential power goes to both right and left wheels as long as neither wheel slips. When the wheel slips it causes all the power to go to it and the other wheel provides no traction. The locking differential and limited slip differential over comes this issue by allow power to go to the wheel that not slipping. The locking differential is normally manually engaged and should always be disengaged after you're out of the slippery situation or you risk damage to the drivetrain. The locking differential forces equal power to be applied to both the right and left wheels. A limited slip differential is normally always on, if a wheel slips it will allow "some" power to be applied to the other wheel.
So along as neither front wheel slips, which is less likely with chains on, both wheels get power if 4x4 drive is engaged.
Note: while there are chains on the front wheels of my tractor I rarely use 4x4, only when I need it. The chains are there to prevent side slipping on the front as I noted above.
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JB4310
Super Member
If it's slick enough to let the rear come around then without the front chains the whole machine might break free.
I would keep those chains on, if there's a 1000 ft drop anywhere near where I'd be working I would want rear chains as well!
If it's just ocassional use at least have something heavy on the back like a box blade with the rippers down so you could drop it in an emergency, like an anchor.
If it's a skating rink on the surface all bets are off.
JB.
FrankBenevento
New member
i was curious.... i had asked more then 1 dealer now about putting chains on the front of a 4wd tractor.. both dealers told me the same thing.. it was BAD for the tractor to hae chains on the front.. somethign about the front wheels not being designed for that.. idk..
has anybody else been told the same??
has anybody else been told the same??
