Am I being a noob about ballast boxes...

[aczlan]

That makes me wonder, do the more powerful tractors need more ballast, or does it go in proportion? Nobody's talking about using a loader with nothing on the back, but my CK feels pretty stable with just a cheap box blade. I've had a rear tire come up while operating at the extreme, but generally no problem. Do most people load up with ballast untill it's impossible to get it light in the rear?

IIRC the Kioti machines weigh more than a comparable machine from Kubota, Deere, et al so they do not need as much weight on the back.
Most any machine with a loader will need weight to fully use its lift capacity.
The farmer near my parents place has a Deere 7405 (105HP MFWD loader tractor) and that has loaded tires, cast rims and wheelweights. As he said "if one of those tires starts falling over (when you are working on it) get the #$%^&* out of the way because it WILL crush you"

Aaron Z

 

[TrenaryDucks]

I think we may be getting carried away. His garden tractor can only lift 1,100 pounds with the 3PH.

 

[RoyJackson]

That makes me wonder, do the more powerful tractors need more ballast, or does it go in proportion? Nobody's talking about using a loader with nothing on the back, but my CK feels pretty stable with just a cheap box blade. I've had a rear tire come up while operating at the extreme, but generally no problem. Do most people load up with ballast untill it's impossible to get it light in the rear?

Rear ballasting is to fit the job. Your manual shoud have a section on ballasting for loads. The Deere manuals do.
Might be for light work, that 500lb rear blade would be all you need.
But if a rear tire comes off the ground, you don't have adequate ballast.

Anyone can use whatever they want, or have handy, for ballasting. The thread is actually discussing the use of ballast boxes. Some folks (me, for example) like those boxes due to their compactness and close in to the tractor. Others would rather use a heavy implement. That's just personal preference.
The important thing is to have some kind of adequate weight back there (or on front, if a heavy rear implement) to keep all four tires on the ground.

 

[k0ua]

Rear ballasting is to fit the job. Your manual shoud have a section on ballasting for loads. The Deere manuals do.
Might be for light work, that 500lb rear blade would be all you need.
But if a rear tire comes off the ground, you don't have adequate ballast.

Anyone can use whatever they want, or have handy, for ballasting. The thread is actually discussing the use of ballast boxes. Some folks (me, for example) like those boxes due to their compactness and close in to the tractor. Others would rather use a heavy implement. That's just personal preference.
The important thing is to have some kind of adequate weight back there (or on front, if a heavy rear implement) to keep all four tires on the ground.

+1, if your rear tires ever come off the ground from lifting something with the FEL, you are not properly ballasted. The relief valve should open long before the rear end comes up.

James K0UA

 

[jake98]

Hey TD, Being from the upper penninsula, and raising ducks, you could combine the words into the business name... did you ever think of 'All Ducked UP'? :thumbsup:

 

[Perplexed]

I think we may be getting carried away. His garden tractor can only lift 1,100 pounds with the 3PH.

Curious comment. To whom are you referring?

 

[gladehound]

I do a lot of work in tight woods and tight driveways. I much prefer using a bar between the 3pt links and 700 pounds of exercise weights because the tractor is so much more manuverable with this than an implement. It also weighs more than any of my implements and I had the weights lying around not being used anyway. I find implements to be very cumbersom when doing loader work because you always have check what they might swing into when you turn. Plus, since the weights roll, you can put it very low without worrying about it scaping the ground because if it touches it just rolls along. Also, since the weight is closer to the rear wheels it doesn't pick up the front as much which helps steering when plowing snow compared to a weight farther back

Here's a picture.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

I do a lot of work in tight woods and tight driveways. I much prefer using a bar between the 3pt links and 700 pounds of exercise weights because the tractor is so much more manuverable with this than an implement. It also weighs more than any of my implements and I had the weights lying around not being used anyway. I find implements to be very cumbersom when doing loader work because you always have check what they might swing into when you turn. Plus, since the weights roll, you can put it very low without worrying about it scaping the ground because if it touches it just rolls along. Also, since the weight is closer to the rear wheels it doesn't pick up the front as much which helps steering when plowing snow compared to a weight farther back

Here's a picture.

That works.!! But, I am wondering how you got all that weight onto the bar and 3pt hitch.??

 

[jake98]

Curious comment. To whom are you referring?

Mine lifts 1764 two feet back... must be you..
Didn't this thread start out with something about a condecending comment??

 

[RoyJackson]

Curious comment. To whom are you referring?

I'm curious too...

Anyway, 1100 lbs is a pretty good amount of weight...more then most implements for a Category 1 tractor.